nipper

Downstate it just seems a tailpipe test. Only in CA do they force every car to go through the high end tests from what i can see.

What everyone else said. Now if it was real chrome would be more effort, and we would have to hurt you Real chrome is almost impossible to get anymore.

Ok that means i can get away with rebuilding it I think. I have to look at it harder since I can one rebuilt for 244.00 It sounds like a lot but there are times it has saved me from pulling my hair out. Once it fires up I will decide. tailpipe idle test is an easy test for a justy in NY.

The justy is getting close to being on the road. I have been trying to research this and getting mixed results. On pre-1996 (obd-1) and older cars do they still do emission testing on them? From what I have read they do not go on the dyno, but i am not sure if they do tailpipe or not (downstate). I have to decide between rebuilding the carb or buying a rebuild. nipper

Start with Justy's Dustys. The man is great with Justys, fair, will give advice. There is a Justy board but they are not the er um .... er ... lets say the warmest people unless you live in the PNW. http://www.dustysjustys.com/home.htm The big failure on the CVT seems to be the main drum spilts. The repair that seems to be working is simply weld it back together http://subarujusty.proboards.com/ i would use proboard only as a refernce. They have questions there that no one bothers to answer ever. i do not understand that. It is also a poorly written site as you do not get notices of anything.

It is ALWAYS the front make the vibration due to the engine not the rears, unless some luck SOB has a mid engines subaru Who, replacing a rear halfshaft. Does anyone actually do that?

Same here. Yes mine has a documented 30K on it, and let me tell you, the way the front brakes were fused as one larger peice of metal, flaked paint, and the foulest gasoline I have ever smelled, I can ceritify it sat for 5 years. And yes oh goody I have another mid-year car. i do like how it honestly sit 4 people and still able to move out of its own way I think the MPG just depends on how heavy you are with the skinny pedal.

Oil pump issue - there are two ways that is avoided, actually three. One is reduce the oil change interval from 7500 miles to 3000 ,iles. The 2nd is an aftermarket oil pressure gauge as the switch is set at 4psi, which by them mean hello rodknock. The 4th is to increase the oil volume. Htis is optional but an external filter adds 1qt to a 3 qt system. CVT - it is really a basic and simple transmission to work on. People just did not know how to drive them. First is wait for the car to stop before switching from R to D to R. This is how the transmission hub gets torn up. There is a setting on the Sgifter called DS, this is used for driving in traffic or desceneding step hills. It also makes the car go like hell off the line. It is a shift on the fly thiing. Regularly change the tranny fluid with fluid meant for DVT transmissions. Finally the last thing that people think is the transmission failre is the brake switch and the gas pedal switch being out of adjustment. The 5 speeds just go. The 4wd system is very basic All parts except for an exhaust hanger and the exhaust pipes are available at Dussty's Justys or Rock Auto. Subaru actually still carries parts for them. Struts are expensive. When new it had the highets power to weight ratio of any car in its class. It passed all crash tests (and if you worry about that kind of thing) runs extreemly clean. There are many CVTs and Other justys that have made it over the 100K mark and higher. People use them for long road trips as they are not underpowered. All CVT parts are available, and you can still get a rebuilt tranny from subaru. Rebuilt engine blocks and engines are available. 1st year for fuel injection was 1990. This is called the 2nd generation, but physically it is the same as the 1st generation. 2nd generation AC was availble. As any car of that vintage road salt is not their freind. Surprisingly it is a well built little car, and was the most expensive little car of it time. Unless you luck out on a little gem like i did, they seem to be located in the PNW with the odd one here and there. Generally if they have lasted till now they are in poretty good shape.

When you need it fixed like yesterday, i did not have the time to wait. Also I heard through the grapevine the Cardone rebuilt them for subaru but can not confirm.

I decided to be a guinnia pig since subaru no lomger sold rebuilt halfshafts (that I could see on line) for Blu (1997 OB) I went to autozone and bough the top of the line rebuilt half shaft rrebuilt by cardonel Price was below 70.00. I had my mechanic install on the car (he is cheap) and dicovered I did not need a new rear wheel bearing (yay). There is no vibration transmitted to the car at idle. I can not swear what would happen with bith replaced, but I have no reason to suspect they would not work. And Blu passed emissions at 278,000 miles.

Tes, it is the differnce between a failed solenoid or a ruined clutch pack. Whay are you surprised about the cost? It is a major part of the car, the rear of the transmission has to come apart (in the car). There is labor invloved, but the parts are a good chunk of it if the clutches are shot. The sooner a repair is made after a problem, the cheaper it is. The longer you wait, the more parts to be replace the more expensive it is. And I have had the AWD rebuilt and it is 850.00

I washed both of mine The justy is almost ready to be fired up and touch the ground. I will make an extensive post for that soon.

It did not show up untill they got some miles on them so an argument can be made either way. It really is only a seal that can be replaced without selling a rebuilt tranny which is why i hate tranny shops (someplace on USMB as I have forgotten). I dont even know if there was a TSB. Again you only see the ones that people complain about and not people who say thiers is fine, so no way of knowing how many have this issue. i see far more re tailgate wires, rusted tail gate handle, and many more HG's then i do trany issues on three lists.

i was wondering how long this would last. The trans-x swells a bad seal that sooby got from a supplier, thats why it is only 1 year or so with the issue. 3 years is great, and after a tranny srvice makes sense that it had to be added. nipper

Unless you can feel the car learch when it chirps, it is most likley the exhaust system as the cause of the noise.

Thanks. Automotive painting is amung my most disliked talents because, well, i suck at it. I can tolerate bumpers and trim as long as they are black. Black paint hides all sins, followed by camo.

The justy has silver plastic wheel covers. The plastic has flacked away. I want to paint them black with Blue Lettering.. I have plastic binder for spray paint. I have bumper paint and trim paint. I am thinking bumper paint. I also have primer. Any suggestions.

It will help with the start issue, the running issue can be either but good chance it will solve those too.

would wait till you take a look at it, it may be as simple as a frozen adjuster. I cant adjust mine till I get my rear wheel bearing fixed.

I need to get one too as it has been ages since I have done drum brakes, or is it a brake spork now?

The check engine light is doing what it is supposed to do. it tells you the bulb is working. The engine was cooked. Thats bad. Try replacing the radiator cap as it sounds like it is not working properly. Wooooooooo Backfires? When was the last time the timing belt was done? Pulling plug wires can cause unburnt fuel to collect in the cylinder. This MAY cause a backfire. The other side of the coin if they always backfire timing can be off. Either way that one cylinder is not doing anything, and that can be from the timing being off, bent valves, dead fuel injector, loss of compression. When does it backfire? Is there anything else you are leaving out?

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I honestly do not remeber as I just do it. Someone will chime in. I never found it that hard to replace.

The hot or cold thing may not matter as they can get dead spots in them. If it was crank, stop, then start I would suspect the crank sensor. Now that we know it was cranking i would suspect the CTS. It is easy enough to replace and cheap. Normally I am not for suggesting throwing a part at something, but go ahead an see what happens.

Exactly how overheatd was overheated? You need to pull the plugs to the injectors one at a time to see if the noise goes away. Extra fluid in the oil, what did the oil look like and smell like?