nipper

Anyone have a good source for these parts? the HELP section wants a small fortune for them when you need quite a few. I can't see them being subaru specific. i need them for some wheel trim and the rear trim on the Justy's hatch. Right now everything there is taped on just to seal him up for Earl. nipper

That yelling is very rude to say the least. There may not be metal in the pan, as rod knock is not a broken part (yet), it is a worn connecting rod bearing. You may not be able to see it or feel it without using a gauge. There were a few thing you could have done before pulling the engine. You could have listened with a stethascope (or the usual trick) to get a better idea of the source of the noise. YOu may be able to rock the engine with a breaker bar and feel for the knocking noise.

er um no

It has to be properly diagnosed with pressure gauges. i can see this being a bad acumilator, piston in the transmission. If you thnk it is an TCU issues find another to swap out. It can be the pressure valve (sorry forget the exact name) in the tranny too.

Blu just got horns from a 1960's mercedes benz. Now lets see them ignore me!

Ok i am corrected. 130 Mph without a loud squish at the end of the trip.

H ia 130 mph T is 118 mph. If you can get up to 130 PLEASE let us all know how T is fine.

I do not know if it matters, but the hydraulic is a push and the cable is a pull. I always prefered Hyd to cable as cables seize, snap, and need adjustment. Not often but it does. I'm just curious as I find this interesting.

Just out of curisoity, why would you want to go back to a cable?

Year miles? The clutch doesnt go bad that often. First step in ANY ac diagnoses is to get a gauge set on the AC system, if the pressure is too low or too high the compressor will not come on.You most likely have a leak. Pressure slowly went down till the pressure dropped too much si the compressor wont come on, or.... stuff breaks.

Our short on ramps (and off ramps which make life exciting) are from the 1930's and 1940's. the speed limits on the parkways back then were in the 30-40 mph range. Then they got wider and faster now at 55 (but people do drive them much higher sometimes up to 100). There is no way to change the ramps due to bridges and other structures. When I had my gl with a 1.8 there were some on ramps i never bothered with because i knew it was to small an engine for to little ramp for too high a speed road.

the justy has sun damage on the dash. Looking at the FSM it looks like those panels just pop in. Has anyone ever revovered the dash covers on a sundamaged dash?

Actually it wasnt just mine. i looked through the threads trying to research something, and there are quite a few that no one has answered. i wish they had an email notification system, which is really lacking. i have missed parts because of it. i am INSULTED! how dare you call me a solid adult! hehehe maybe a gooey adult, or a semi solid adult....

Actually no since it requires so much money to do. NY is taking the sane step of letting cars age out. CA is a car mecca so they have so many conversions and older cars, they had no choice. Even importing a car from another state is a ritual.

Thats totally bovine dude ...............

Downstate it just seems a tailpipe test. Only in CA do they force every car to go through the high end tests from what i can see.

What everyone else said. Now if it was real chrome would be more effort, and we would have to hurt you Real chrome is almost impossible to get anymore.

Ok that means i can get away with rebuilding it I think. I have to look at it harder since I can one rebuilt for 244.00 It sounds like a lot but there are times it has saved me from pulling my hair out. Once it fires up I will decide. tailpipe idle test is an easy test for a justy in NY.

The justy is getting close to being on the road. I have been trying to research this and getting mixed results. On pre-1996 (obd-1) and older cars do they still do emission testing on them? From what I have read they do not go on the dyno, but i am not sure if they do tailpipe or not (downstate). I have to decide between rebuilding the carb or buying a rebuild. nipper

Start with Justy's Dustys. The man is great with Justys, fair, will give advice. There is a Justy board but they are not the er um .... er ... lets say the warmest people unless you live in the PNW. http://www.dustysjustys.com/home.htm The big failure on the CVT seems to be the main drum spilts. The repair that seems to be working is simply weld it back together http://subarujusty.proboards.com/ i would use proboard only as a refernce. They have questions there that no one bothers to answer ever. i do not understand that. It is also a poorly written site as you do not get notices of anything.

It is ALWAYS the front make the vibration due to the engine not the rears, unless some luck SOB has a mid engines subaru Who, replacing a rear halfshaft. Does anyone actually do that?

Same here. Yes mine has a documented 30K on it, and let me tell you, the way the front brakes were fused as one larger peice of metal, flaked paint, and the foulest gasoline I have ever smelled, I can ceritify it sat for 5 years. And yes oh goody I have another mid-year car. i do like how it honestly sit 4 people and still able to move out of its own way I think the MPG just depends on how heavy you are with the skinny pedal.

Oil pump issue - there are two ways that is avoided, actually three. One is reduce the oil change interval from 7500 miles to 3000 ,iles. The 2nd is an aftermarket oil pressure gauge as the switch is set at 4psi, which by them mean hello rodknock. The 4th is to increase the oil volume. Htis is optional but an external filter adds 1qt to a 3 qt system. CVT - it is really a basic and simple transmission to work on. People just did not know how to drive them. First is wait for the car to stop before switching from R to D to R. This is how the transmission hub gets torn up. There is a setting on the Sgifter called DS, this is used for driving in traffic or desceneding step hills. It also makes the car go like hell off the line. It is a shift on the fly thiing. Regularly change the tranny fluid with fluid meant for DVT transmissions. Finally the last thing that people think is the transmission failre is the brake switch and the gas pedal switch being out of adjustment. The 5 speeds just go. The 4wd system is very basic All parts except for an exhaust hanger and the exhaust pipes are available at Dussty's Justys or Rock Auto. Subaru actually still carries parts for them. Struts are expensive. When new it had the highets power to weight ratio of any car in its class. It passed all crash tests (and if you worry about that kind of thing) runs extreemly clean. There are many CVTs and Other justys that have made it over the 100K mark and higher. People use them for long road trips as they are not underpowered. All CVT parts are available, and you can still get a rebuilt tranny from subaru. Rebuilt engine blocks and engines are available. 1st year for fuel injection was 1990. This is called the 2nd generation, but physically it is the same as the 1st generation. 2nd generation AC was availble. As any car of that vintage road salt is not their freind. Surprisingly it is a well built little car, and was the most expensive little car of it time. Unless you luck out on a little gem like i did, they seem to be located in the PNW with the odd one here and there. Generally if they have lasted till now they are in poretty good shape.

When you need it fixed like yesterday, i did not have the time to wait. Also I heard through the grapevine the Cardone rebuilt them for subaru but can not confirm.

I decided to be a guinnia pig since subaru no lomger sold rebuilt halfshafts (that I could see on line) for Blu (1997 OB) I went to autozone and bough the top of the line rebuilt half shaft rrebuilt by cardonel Price was below 70.00. I had my mechanic install on the car (he is cheap) and dicovered I did not need a new rear wheel bearing (yay). There is no vibration transmitted to the car at idle. I can not swear what would happen with bith replaced, but I have no reason to suspect they would not work. And Blu passed emissions at 278,000 miles.