nipper

We have absolutly no idea since model year and trim levle have not been listed.

My mechanic said he has seen alo of people buying new and older subarus.

I was filling up Blu. This nice older lady carefully gets in her Subaru. I thought it was a leagcy, had the lines, next to Blu it lookes about the right size... It was an Imp! the Imp is almost as large as my 97 outback. Maybe I would need to go down a size to keep in about Blu's class.

Yup mine grinds on corners, and what is more bothersome is that Blu is wandering on the road more and has a high speed shimmy sometimes. After this last 40 mile trip today i am putting him on bed rest till surgery. After 5 years it is time to come out.

It is even older then that http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opposed-piston_engine The issues with it is that are low rpm engines and take lots of room.

It is one of two things, a worn wheel speed sensor or a cracked tone ring. If you cant pull the codes do the next best thing, inspect them. The speed sensor should be perfectly cylindrical.

Do you have a CEL? The AWD in this year (I may be wrong) Has 2 vss snesors. If they both go out the cel should be on and the cars performance, well, odd and the spedo wont work. Check the wiring harness, as it is rare for them both to quit at the same time.

If they blink too fast they can not be seen from a distance by some drivers and may be confusing in some weather conditions. Beleive it or not there is standard for the number of flashes per minute of the signals, there is a range but if you notice cars are pretty close to each to eachother in flashes.

I'll post pics as soon as I finish the trim. It has been to windy to paint. I am getting really good at masking

Law of thermodynamics over time it wouldnt matter as the temps would equilize. Granted on the inlet you would see a longer lag. But in truth I really dont want to take that apart again unless I got the flow wrong.

Sadly no. It is the charcoal brown. I just painted the bumpers, surrounds on the tail and frt turn signals and trim. I would like some flash to it as it looks so ..... brown. I saw one screaming yellow but he stripped it down to the shell to do it.

If he goes woodgrain he would need to get ejected from the group

AHA! Woshing is air in the system. It may have purged itself on the long drive.

Thats what makes driving thrilling

Not yet, as it is something that needs to be done so I just close my eyes and sign the credit card. I need one more day out of blu but I think he may come undrivable shortly. Thats what AAA is for.

FIrst read this http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm then do this http://www.allpar.com/fix/alignment.html

Ok so I screwed up on the oil temp sensor (mumble). My original thought for the oil pressure gauge was fine, but I may put it after the filter. The oil filter holds one qt all by itself. The oil T-stat fails open and has some minor pass through at full open and full closed to keep things circulating. What I had originally I have designed these things before, but since the Justy is such an odd bird, the way they were crowing I was wondering if I was overlooking something. PS - It is a Purolator PureOne filter

Ok i am tired of getting beaten up om the snob list so let me ask for opinions here. Verbally here is the flow... From the plate (over the oil filter ) port out to the ext. oil filter port in. From the oil filter port out to the oil thermostat hot side. From the cold side back to plate port in. From the Thermostat hot out to the cooler, then to t-stat cold in. Other details: At about 3 feet from the engine oil filter plate the hoses are higher then the oil filter t-stat and cooler. I am using the original oil pressure light switch in it's original location. It is basically useless as it turns on the idiot light at 4psi. The oil t-stat opens at 180 degrees. This should add 2 more quarts to the Justy's 3 qt oil circuit. The plumbing is as Perma-cools instructions. The oilfilter has a anti drain back valve in it I have the oil temp sender at the return (in) port of the engine oil filter plate. I think I got confused and put it in the wrong port, it should be on the out port to the filter. I want to install the oil pressure gauge sender at the In port of the oil filter, The way the oil flows in the justy engine is pan to oil pump (oil relife valve feeds back to oil pump input) to oil filter (oil bypass valve goes around the filter) to the crankase main gallaery. Off the main gallery is the oil pressure switch. The oil pressure switch has some weird rump roast thread I can not match. The Justy guys just force (!) a standard thread into the hole. The engineer in me sees this as blasphamy. Here are the questions: Where would you put the oil temp sender (I think I have to move it from the return to the outlet, ehat a beach that will be). Where would you locate the oil pressure gauge sender. Is it necassary to put a check valve in the return line that cracks open at 4 psi.

Technically I can do the job, it is the fights with rust I can not do anymore. Blu has surgery on the 17th.

Just throwing parts at something makes it impossible to easily diagnose. I would suggest putting the original parts back on except the tuneup parts. Then I would pull the codes and find out what cylinder it is or any other codes. Also you MUST give us year miles transmission and engine otherwise we are totally blind on any post. What kind or wires did you use. What plugs, where did the coil come from?

If you are using the original 4eat tranny, it is programed for a bigger engine with more torque and throttle feedback (vacume). It may not be getting the needed signals to downshift properly.

You are below the Mason/Dixon line, ou are south

could be exhaust> I found mine by jacking uo the car and spinning the tire by hand. I also had mine making a roaring noise for 5 years untill I did the brakes this week. It sounded like marbles in a tin can with the weight off the tire.

Got a pic? If it is PS line it may be as simpple as an O ring. Wash the engine to make sure it is coming from where you think it is.

What kind of wires? Mist the coil at night and see if you see any sparklies.