nipper

Tes, it is the differnce between a failed solenoid or a ruined clutch pack. Whay are you surprised about the cost? It is a major part of the car, the rear of the transmission has to come apart (in the car). There is labor invloved, but the parts are a good chunk of it if the clutches are shot. The sooner a repair is made after a problem, the cheaper it is. The longer you wait, the more parts to be replace the more expensive it is. And I have had the AWD rebuilt and it is 850.00

I washed both of mine The justy is almost ready to be fired up and touch the ground. I will make an extensive post for that soon.

It did not show up untill they got some miles on them so an argument can be made either way. It really is only a seal that can be replaced without selling a rebuilt tranny which is why i hate tranny shops (someplace on USMB as I have forgotten). I dont even know if there was a TSB. Again you only see the ones that people complain about and not people who say thiers is fine, so no way of knowing how many have this issue. i see far more re tailgate wires, rusted tail gate handle, and many more HG's then i do trany issues on three lists.

i was wondering how long this would last. The trans-x swells a bad seal that sooby got from a supplier, thats why it is only 1 year or so with the issue. 3 years is great, and after a tranny srvice makes sense that it had to be added. nipper

Unless you can feel the car learch when it chirps, it is most likley the exhaust system as the cause of the noise.

Thanks. Automotive painting is amung my most disliked talents because, well, i suck at it. I can tolerate bumpers and trim as long as they are black. Black paint hides all sins, followed by camo.

The justy has silver plastic wheel covers. The plastic has flacked away. I want to paint them black with Blue Lettering.. I have plastic binder for spray paint. I have bumper paint and trim paint. I am thinking bumper paint. I also have primer. Any suggestions.

It will help with the start issue, the running issue can be either but good chance it will solve those too.

would wait till you take a look at it, it may be as simple as a frozen adjuster. I cant adjust mine till I get my rear wheel bearing fixed.

I need to get one too as it has been ages since I have done drum brakes, or is it a brake spork now?

The check engine light is doing what it is supposed to do. it tells you the bulb is working. The engine was cooked. Thats bad. Try replacing the radiator cap as it sounds like it is not working properly. Wooooooooo Backfires? When was the last time the timing belt was done? Pulling plug wires can cause unburnt fuel to collect in the cylinder. This MAY cause a backfire. The other side of the coin if they always backfire timing can be off. Either way that one cylinder is not doing anything, and that can be from the timing being off, bent valves, dead fuel injector, loss of compression. When does it backfire? Is there anything else you are leaving out?

The plural of EJ22 is : EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 EJ22 :-p

I honestly do not remeber as I just do it. Someone will chime in. I never found it that hard to replace.

The hot or cold thing may not matter as they can get dead spots in them. If it was crank, stop, then start I would suspect the crank sensor. Now that we know it was cranking i would suspect the CTS. It is easy enough to replace and cheap. Normally I am not for suggesting throwing a part at something, but go ahead an see what happens.

Exactly how overheatd was overheated? You need to pull the plugs to the injectors one at a time to see if the noise goes away. Extra fluid in the oil, what did the oil look like and smell like?

I think the square lines of the 80's wagons look GREAT in camo!

Has this happened before? Was it 3 seconds of continous cranking or 3 seconds, stop, then retry and the car fires up.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106244&highlight=Tick+Death

Coolant temp sensor. Car cant tell how warm it is nor how cold it is so it is running too rich. Subarus dont usually burn oil, replace the PCV Valve.

All soobies need matching tires of equal wear. All rubber parts in the front of the engine should be replaced, along with all the parts suggested. That humrr is a rear wheel bearing. The exhaust noise may be the flex joint in the exhaust system Oh and i hate you for finding one,

Front O2 sensor should always come from Subaru, and this is the reason why.

The Tick Of Death....

2.5 DOHC is an Interference. Only 2.2 of that year were not. Belt snapped bad.

I usually replace them in pair, and i also recomend that. They both see the same amount of work, and bsically are built the same except one has a resivoir. nipper

Oil pressure is useless in your case, as pressure stays consistant as long as there is oil in the crank. Check the oil once a week.