nipper

We do not have scrap yards anymore. I can get a bearing for 37.00 . Blu will be having outpatient surgery. Just want to know the cost..

Thanks. I ordered the end link already as i was figuring getting it done as long as they had the car on the lift. Now I have to cancel that apointment. Wheel bearings let me look and I will probably take the rear set. rear brake shoes yes. Right now I need to sit down and digest this. I have never asked for finacial help on a car repair in my life and I just had to. So now I need time to sit back and digest this all. For a long time there was a low roar from the rear. Now it had gotten to sound like dragging brake shoes, but starting to ebb again. Odd how I have all the parts for the justy but it is not road ready.

There is no way in hell I can do this myself due to physical limitations, unless i double up on the xanex and vicodin. Then again i could never get out from under the car.... What kind of cost am i looking at for this?

YOu need a brake spoon. It is made specifically for this as it is S shaped.

Coils split the power 1-2 and 3-4 as the engine is 2 4 on one side and 1 3 on the other side. firing order is 1 3 2 4. Yes bad grounds can do this. Technically thier may be another ground on the transmission. I cant tell how many grounds there are. You may have one coil weaker then the other so that may be why one coil is affected first or weaker wires.

Sigh ... Blu just threw a hissey fit. yes the rear parking brake shoes are shot but everything else is good. However .. in the last week Blu has torn a CV boot. this is literally in the last few days so I am going the split boot route. There is a broken end link at the rear sway bar. The ugliest thing, and i mean uglie$t is the rear wheel bearing. I was told the first two will not fail me on inspection (sort of surprised by the endlink wont fail). I may have to cancle the inspection to later in the month. I will attack the rear brakes shoes at another time. Odd how the wheel beainrg did not get really noisey untill I changed rotors. I have shimmy in the right front wheel after hitting a bump but the front end is tight and mostly new in the last year. Hoepfully it is the Cv joint on the left or the end link i am feeling. I rotated the tires to see if it moves.

For a clog test i always used a hose. Same water that goes in should drian out. If it backs up in the tanks then it is not flowing right. Also using the above method as long as the hose water is cold, you will feel ambiant temp spots if it is not flowing in some spots. I will admit it is one of those things that can be a pita to test for, but it usually is those tests after everything else is ruled out.

It depends, on where the hose is in the overflow tank. If it gets above the water line or runs out of water yes. If the cap has a poot seal then yes. Do the simple and cheap things first.

Well the other view, how much is a new belt.

Ok this is bad, i just pictured an old car painted with Martha Stewart brand paint and be called designer....

COOL! All those colors coming out of the same can in the propper pattern.

Sometimes it just feels like that. The next questions would be the condition of the struts, suspension, and tires. Now the techy stuff, they are slightly biased towards the front just the way the power flows, and you really wouldnt notice it, it is just an engineering thing. http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/traction/tech_traction_4wd_2.htm Get the car on wet grass and nail the gas you will see it is your imagination.

I wouldnt use it. Rubber gets brittle just sitting around. Now we need a tie breaker.

That is what i get for standing next to the space time portal on the board. I hear myself before I even say anything

Anyone mention a radiator cap?

My God subaru makes junk. 270,000 miles, tie rod ends, Belt tensione idler, and now parking brake shoes

Rust is bad. Unless it is selling really cheap walk away. On any car this is a weak area if the wheelwells arent washed out a few times in rust country

Hrm, there is something interesting.... Brake line not allowing pressure to return to MC. I would buy a stuck piston or pistons. How is the brake pedal? Compare the pedal to another car.

then an auto it is.

I sort of remeber about the 01's thought to have brakes that were too small for the car, or am I wrong? Runout in the discs can be another issue. Runout is when one side of the rotor is thicker then the other side (same side). I always replace rotors on subaru, i never get them cut. Machine shops around here tend to be a bit agressive turning them, and the cost of new ones aftermarket is reasonable. Have you tried ceramic pads?

Subaru rotors do not always like being turned. Sometimes it is just as cost effective to replace them. If your rotors are warped, it can cause a chain reaction of issues, including causing the pins to bind up cine not only do pads float but calipers do too. After that I am out of ideas unless the car shows up in my driveway. Check to make sure brackets arent bent. And in the words of Click and Clack "When was the accident"

Lets back up a bit. Remove the serpitine baelt and see if it goes away. There have been a few issues with the serpitine pully.

Let me get back to you in a few days once i tear into it. I ma thinking friday or monday as my inspection is up in august

You need to remove the caliper off the slide pins and give the pins a really good cleaning and lubrication. The pads are not lubricated in the caliper, they just float in the caliper. Check the rotor to make sure both sides are still parallel to each other.

Drained out the most vile, disgusting and darkest gasoline ( more like maple syrup) I have ever seen in my life. Luckily it was self siphoning from the fuel tank. 2 1/2 gallons came out, which seamed about right with the Justy's gauge and 9 gallon tank. The gas only was 5 years old.