nipper

If it ran before you chnaged the belts and doesnt run now, there is only one possible conclusion: the timing belt is not set properly. And back away from the madman who said it is your stoplight. Back away very slowly as any sudden moves can set off a crazy person.

Thats why i am having a nice little chat with Walker, I expected much better. At least the pipes are stainless and not galvanized. Not that i t helps since I can't use them.

I think this fan is operated by the ECU. IUf this is true there is an aftermarket thermoswitch that can be purchased that just senses the temp of the radiator and turns on the fan. It is not unusual for this type of fan control to go bad.

Chain is good. The chain may have another 50,000 to a gazillion miles left on it depending upon the care the car has received. Was it painted with a brush or spray can

Yuo can try to have the radiator cap 1/2 way on, that may help a bit. But over heating more often is a telling sign of the evil that shall not be spoken.

The mufler is fine. The angle for the connection is fine. Anything after that just does not work. That cat is so big I dont know if that poor little 3cyl engine can push through two full size cats. One of theirflange clamps are junk too as far as matching up.

:mad: I decided to post a PSA. Here are pics of my 1989 exhuast system side by side with a system from Walker. the Walker sustem is supposed to be a "Direct Fit" for the 89. The front pipe from wlaker is too short to replace the factory flex pipe (which does not have a flange anywhere on it) and not long enough to reach the Manifold/converter. I am an Automotive engineer and used to do part interchanges as my first job. Personally I would never approve this. I will share what Walker says.

Lets skip the endwrench instructions, amuse me. With car running, (on level ground) SLOWLY add coolant till the radiator is full. Wait for the t-stat to open, there will be a surge of fluid. Slowly top off the cooling system untill full. Monitor engine temp. Put cap on, make sure overflow tank is filled to the hot line. Drive around the block. Let the car cool off, check level in radiator. Repeat if needed. This is the procedure since cars were water cooled, (some people are impatient and skip this including shops - just an FYI). All cars should be filled like this. Individual soobys can sometimes be a real bear to burp. Did you use 50/50 premix and no tap water?

There is a flex joint in the column under the hood. Soak it with wd40 and see if it goes away. This is just a test and not a cure. The universal joint at this age can start to seize up

Well first thing is first, got to do the basics, a FULL tuneup.

Does it sound like plastic rubbing? can you feel a hesitation in the wheel turning?

Temp gauge has it's own sensor. You may have an air bubble in the engine. Did you use an OE t-stat?

THE ATF light on means there was a electrical failure on the last drive cycle. Does it flash on startup? On a 1998 it can be a bad Duty C, or a sticking pressure valve, or a sticking Duty C. Do all the tires match and are of equal wear? On a sooby this old, instead of just replacing the C, i would also put new clutches in the AWD unit, do right do it once never go back. Do it 1/2 way Mr Murphy will knock on your door. I would NOT touch the filter. It is ony a screen. Most people mess i up removing the pan and make a leak that is tough to resolve.

PS Why on earth was it painted?

They are solid little cars when not rusted out. Find out how old the clutch is when the timing belt (if equipped) was last replaced. This may be a 60K interval. nipper

A knock sensor code is a knock sensro 99% of the time. They are a common failure on soobys. Just replace it with a generic one.

Not realy. You can make anyhting work but the amount of swearing goes up proportionally with the more attempts to use an improper but probable working tool.

If you bought it from a sooby dealer I could help you here even though you are over the mileage. Lets see what this dealer comes up with.

Your still not giving me mileage, this is VERY important. SUbary has a extended warrenty to 100,000 miles on some years due to HG issues. I can talk you through this process if you would give me the mileage, but this is the first time i have heard a Baja have this issue. Also if the dealer is going to split the cost of repair, instead of paying for it himself, you need to push for your own mechanic to do the fix.

Did I miss how many miles this has, that is very important right now. Find out if there is an "Implied" warrenty like there is in NY. It lasts 30 days on any used car bought from a dealer, and this would be covered. Did you buy this from a subaru dealer?

"Sprays coolant" We are done here, it is a headgasket.

Thanks Now I have to figure out how to run all the gauge wires Also poking around under the car I found out I dont need to go to the other evil place (mien-money). The engine flex pipe is solid so all I have to do is snap off the bolts and then life is easy

Drive belts same time as the timing belt. Radiator hoses this day in age can last the life of the car.

1989 Justy 30 K had to slightly molest it but nothing that is not reversable: (Yes the bumper will be repainted) The hoses actually clear the plate. I ran the hoses so that I can service the car easily. They clear everything. I am still trying to figure out how to run the wires for these. the wires under the hood are pretty much hidden. The white one is a spare for future use. And yes I ran out of hose clamps. Oil temp sensor is Teed off the remote oil filter adapter. The pressure sender is on the IN line to the oil filter. I wanted to keep the factory light. The oil filter is from s Ford 302 engine and almost holds 1 qt. My math came up with some silly amount of added volume, but it is almoet 15 feet of 1/2 inch tubing (including the cooler). I am proud of this as I used to build things like this for a living. 8-)

Yay!