nipper

A knock sensor code is a knock sensro 99% of the time. They are a common failure on soobys. Just replace it with a generic one.

Not realy. You can make anyhting work but the amount of swearing goes up proportionally with the more attempts to use an improper but probable working tool.

If you bought it from a sooby dealer I could help you here even though you are over the mileage. Lets see what this dealer comes up with.

Your still not giving me mileage, this is VERY important. SUbary has a extended warrenty to 100,000 miles on some years due to HG issues. I can talk you through this process if you would give me the mileage, but this is the first time i have heard a Baja have this issue. Also if the dealer is going to split the cost of repair, instead of paying for it himself, you need to push for your own mechanic to do the fix.

Did I miss how many miles this has, that is very important right now. Find out if there is an "Implied" warrenty like there is in NY. It lasts 30 days on any used car bought from a dealer, and this would be covered. Did you buy this from a subaru dealer?

"Sprays coolant" We are done here, it is a headgasket.

Thanks Now I have to figure out how to run all the gauge wires Also poking around under the car I found out I dont need to go to the other evil place (mien-money). The engine flex pipe is solid so all I have to do is snap off the bolts and then life is easy

Drive belts same time as the timing belt. Radiator hoses this day in age can last the life of the car.

1989 Justy 30 K had to slightly molest it but nothing that is not reversable: (Yes the bumper will be repainted) The hoses actually clear the plate. I ran the hoses so that I can service the car easily. They clear everything. I am still trying to figure out how to run the wires for these. the wires under the hood are pretty much hidden. The white one is a spare for future use. And yes I ran out of hose clamps. Oil temp sensor is Teed off the remote oil filter adapter. The pressure sender is on the IN line to the oil filter. I wanted to keep the factory light. The oil filter is from s Ford 302 engine and almost holds 1 qt. My math came up with some silly amount of added volume, but it is almoet 15 feet of 1/2 inch tubing (including the cooler). I am proud of this as I used to build things like this for a living. 8-)

Yay!

And technically that is all part of the timing belt. There have been belts that have jumped a tooth and lost a tooth i the process, but hard to do a true "Chicken or egg" investigation on a chat board. Rubber has a finite age. Ryn on a ten year old tire or a parked ten year old tire and you will see why. Components fail when they are disturbed and not replaced from the info I have gathered here. Seems those idlers do not like being touchy-feely, they get grumpy with old age

Does it happen after a drive of a few miles or highway as opposed to just quick jaunts around town?

105 months and one day. It really is not a question of how much you can drive after 105 months. The question is how much do you want to gamble on the odds of a replacement engine.

How many miles on it. Be very very nice to the dealer, as he may be able to get subaru to pick up the cost of the repair or part of it.

Puddle left side - overflow tank. Lets try to get rid of my brown gook Remove the tank. Put in a bunch of tiny rocks (clean) a little soap and shake the hell out of it. Drain everything out, rinse, rinse, rinse. Put it back, fill it to low with antifreeze, and lest see what comes back.

By that time the code may have cleared itself. I am not sure how long it holds a code. Also I have not been happy with the quality of the people who scan for codes. This requires dropping the knee panel to help find the connector. You can find it without dropping it but it makes life easier. Why bother with that when you can do it in your driveway with a proedure described in the Subaru Factory Service manual. Also sopme people are not close to a chain autoparts store.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84715&highlight=ABS%2A

I am describing the procedure in the manual. Not everyone has an abs code reader and not everyone can afford to buy one. I dont have one because it gets so little use. It is also a procedure that has been discussed ont this board many times

Nope, el wrongo Antilock brake trouble code procedure 1. Take out diag connector from driverside heater unit 2. Turn ignition switch off 3. Connect diag connector terminal 6 to diag terminal 4. Turn ignition switch on 5. ABS warning light blinks to identify trouble codes 6. After the start code (11)is shown, the trouble codes will be shown in order of the last information first. These repeat for a maximum of 5 minutes Note; when there are no trouble codes in memory, only the start code (11) is shown. Here are pics http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84715&highlight=ABS%2A

Subarus do not blow headgaskets by making steam. They leak into the cooling system, pushing out the coolant causing the engine to overheat. The oily brown yucky stuff in your overflow tank is a dead give away that it is blown. There are tests that can be done but they are a waste of time in this case.

DO all the tired match in brand and wear? Otherwise the center diff/viscous couplimg is fried.

First off never fill an aluminum engine with tap water, always use deionized water or a 50/50 premix. Second the bad news; The head gasket is blown.

Sensors need to be a perfect cylinder in shape, no rounded edges. If the edge is rounded it won't read right and throw a code. Ckeck the tone ring and the sensor, but i am going with the tone ring.

Actually a rather common issue qith ABS. The tone ring is thewhell that the sensor picks up the speed from. It can crack at times.

Cracked tone wheel?