nipper

And here i was licking ...... oh never mind, seemed to work for cats. I use almost any dishwashing detergent and a red scotch brite pad. The pad isnt hard on the skin, and gets everything out excpet fingernails. Sadly i have lost some masculinity and started wearing latex gloves when working on the car. Work clothes, they are supposed to get dirty. i use taorn jeans to rok on the car. For stains on other clothes, let the detergant pre-soak, then use a stiff dish brush (synthetic) and rub it in.

Yes and Yes.

Subarus generally do not like lighter flywheels. They need the extra mass to store energy for smother take-offs at low rpm. They also help keeping the engine smoother between cylinder firings. The more cylinders the lighter you can go with a flywheel. $'s are not to happy about it if you are concerned about driveability and not stop-light racing.

What he said.

That is exactly what i did. nipper

Well sort of. If the car has lots of miles (usually over a 100k on a sooby, but they can last to 180K), the MPG has taken a dump, or the light comes one and off over time, it is most likely the front sensor. The rear sensor just monitors the Cat output and will usually outlive the front one. It wont have an effect on performance. Of course you can bench test them.

Vw vanagon engine, a low profile in-line diesel, was never a reliable engine. I think avw diesel, and early model, has been fit to sooby's before. I wonder if the transmission can handle the torque from a diesel. The small engine from a Brat shold be fairly good on gas mileage. nipper

I take the rust down to the metal if possible. I talked to a paint supplier that deal with custom mixes for any car. They give out great advice http://www.paintscratch.com/ They agreed that the Dupli-color rust converter is an excelant product. I take it down as far as i can. I spray three coats as per instructions, and let it sit for 24 hours before I apply any bondo. When Blu had his rust i gournd down all the rust and left a good size hole. I use the Rust converter, filled the hole, then painted with three cots of Dupli-color primer, wet sand, 4 coats of paint with wet sanding, then 2 coats of top coat, with wet sanding. Blu was easy His hole was under the vinyl body tape so I did not have to paint aside from primer. On the Justy i look for natural body panel breaks to sand and paint to. nipper nipper

I got the 89 Justy CVT started to move it around in the driveway. This car has stayed park for many years. I can hear the brushes wining from the clutch contacts. My question is, with a CVT (a nomal electric motor I would just wait and see) is this something to worry about? Should i just wait it out, or let it run for a while then replace the brushes? nipper

Or live someplace where everything is downhill. nipper

You only replaced 2?

i try

It may not exist. It can be on the clutch fork or the clutch pedal. it is just used to take up slack in the mechanisims.

You need a air compressor. I have seen people use a portable air tank with mixed results. nipper

Throwout bearing does NOt make noise with the clutch depressed, it only makes noise with the clutch out. Basically it is rattling around inside the tranny, and get anything rattling around fast enough it will make a whiring noise. If you can hear it with the pedal down it is pretty far gone. Even a tranny input shaft wont make noise at that point. It is the clutch. nipper

It happens at full load, your ALT is dying. Put everything (and i mean everything) on and check the battery voltage. Raise engine RPM to 1800 rpm Bet it is below 13. nipper

I thought the 2000 was much higher then that. That is what i paid for Blu, a great price. Go OE then, as aftermarket rebuilds have been very problematic

At that mileage i would say it is just tired. People will say put the car on jack stands etc etc. It's just tired. You can try (i think it is lucks) LSD rear additive. someone will chime in with what it is. nipper

Make sure they use the old analog type tester. the digital ones are worthless and miss altenators that are borderline as techs (and autoparts people) have no clue how to read them. If you go aftermarket find a real shop to buy a rebuilt from, not a chain. nipper

How many miles. What caused you to think you needed the FWD fuse? If the FWD fuse is working the solenoid is working..... for now. Did all your tires match? Sometimes it fails just due to high mileage. What are the symptoms?

The throw out bearing is rattling around inside the transmission. When you depress the clutch the noise goes away. You are loading up the bearing. MAN OH MAN you may win the award for the most miles on a clutch! I wouldnt be surprised if it is a thorw out bearing, or a pilot bearing. My money on throwout. http://science.howstuffworks.com/bearing1.htm Look how the bearing is constructed, and you can invision the noise. Google it and 98% of the responses are a bad TO bearing. Even people with new trannies are confirming it. Shaft bearing would make noise as you released the clutch, not just when it is fully released.

I had that for a while too. what solved it was a really really good washing of the under body with a hose. It drove me nuts. nipper

Throw out bearing. When was the clutch last done and what parts were replaced.

My mistake, they are inductors DUH brain fart!