nipper

Could be a tire and a brake, both brake discs out of round, a wheel beainrg etc. Lets rule out things we know are bad, and go from there.

My car whistles (chirps) only at specific points and not all the time, so do not rule that out yet. The vibration can be the fact you need brakes. Fix the brakes first before we start using scattershot to try and diagnose it. Could be a warped rotor, an out of balance wheel, a broken belt in the tire. Move one tire at a time front to rear and see if it changes. Even if the tires are brand new you can still have a seperated belt. nipper

It is more of a whistle. The biggest cause for this is a loose air cleaner, or somehting leaking or loss in the air intake system. What happens under WOT like getting on a highway?

No that is junk. How can i tell? "Aluminized steel" is junk. In less then 2 years it will be rusted. Look for Walker pipes, they last a long long time. Go to Rock auto to start, and confirm by going to the Walker catalog itself. Having just done this on my 97' the cat/pipe bolts are a real ***************. Even when they are cut off they put up a fight. Youe need a grinder, though i did well with a dremel tool. i had to take mine to midas finally due to a rotted flange on the converter. Go to RockAuto as I think we get a discount. The wlaker cat hardware kit has everything you need. The rear muffler should be alot easier, just snap those bolts. nipper

this isnt chincing out, this is due to limited real-estate on the dash. The fuel consumptio meter is a federal required thing, as more and more cars are having them, and mfg's would not do somehting like that voluntairily. But i will agree with anew dash design they could have squeezed it in someplace, even in the LCD display. nipper

Don't panic. If you were turning by hand and stopped as soon as there was resistance, there is most likely no damage. Turning it by hand i doubt created it by force to damage anything. Do like was mentioned above. nipper

Borrow or rent a code reader from an autoparts store, as sometimes they are more finetuned then something off ebay. i love my scantool but sometimes there are codes it just locks up on, or says there is a fault but then there is no code (like my recent EGR valve). nipper

EGR won't keep the car from starting, it may cause driveability issues. i had that and it gave me hesitation, and it turned out to be the backpressure transducer. nipper

One little detail everyone is ommiting. The Tranny light blinks for the the last previous cycle of the car. i think this is coincidence. Now on to the bigger issues. How many miles are on this car. You need suck squish boom to make a car run. It is easy to check for boom. See if you have any spark. Suck and squish are effected by the timing belt. The car dying at speed is usually disturbing, but for now lets start with the basics. And a tuneup wouldnt hurt, but lets confirm the spark first. nipper

that should be interesting, greasing the front pads Clean the slide pins with some scotchbrite then lubricate them. nipper

Whats scary is i've seen some V-6's called big engines. Maybe they just mean by HP. Funny how in europe 1.2L and incredibly long 0-60 times (times that would be considered dangerous here) are acceptable. nipper

Find one locally. Imagine if that one went bad, an online shop can just go poof. Imagine the shipping charge. As far asi ti being 1/2 off, I dont know. the original price sounded way to high to me. Call around and see what a local yard gets for an auto tranny. nipper

Have someone do a leak test on it. It sounds like the PO was trying to a fix a problem he couldnt trace down. nipper

Yes they dont seem to build thier cars to the tightest performance and dimmension they can get away with. Also they like tiny engines so they tend to have more room to allow for a bigger sump, i never noticed to tell the truth. I just know with the stupidly small capacity they are causing cludge issues. I dare anyone to do that with any of the engines that have had sludge issues and see how far they get When we used jet turbines to power helicopter towed mine sweepers we had oil change intervals. Maybe it was the fast cycling. We did oil analysis but still had to change the oil. the hydraulic oil we never changed.

I googled it. After getting a lot of peanut butter and peanut oil recipies, Ebay came through http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-04-06-Impreza-GD-D-STI-WRX-Peanut-Eye-Hood-Scoop-/300420030266 Its an Imp.

For the 4th time on here i am in a fog. Disconnect the rack and see if it binds anywhere while he turns the wheels. Ever think the "good pump" had crud in it and clogged the rack. Make sure the P/S hoses are good and have good flow. If he contaminated the rack with something fomr the 2nd pump, makes sense that the 1st pump wont work. http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/power-steering-fluid-5209/ http://bbs.scoobynet.com/general-technical-10/806748-is-auto-transmission-fluid-the-same-as-power-steering-fluid.html Usually the PS cap will say what fluid to use, and most Japanese cars use ATF fluid (again except electric boost). It is hard to say what is what when it is all over the phone. he also may have had other issues with the leaking pump that got worse when he restored the pump pressure. If he is not interested in properly diagnosing things, heck, neither am I

before we go anywhere, who made these "cheap cats" . I have a feeling i know and that can be the source of the entire issue. Have you replaced the cheap cats with a better one? When the cats run hotter then designed you are not buring anything off. You are melting the catalyst.

So the steering is stiff? Thats not a usual failure mode. Also form what I can tell is that the porblem existed before the pump was changed? Its not the PS seals, if it was the rack would be leaking. If the stering is stiff, inspect the Ball joints, Top hats, Tie rod ends. Racks when they go bad usually either leak or have no boost when cold. I dont trust anyone who changes a pump just because.

I would say its an engine coolant temp sensor, but what in heck is a 2003 singapore peanut eye ts ?

ATF and PS fluid are interchangable except for cars with electric power steering (and i am sure someone will say i am wrong but tough nuggies). My big question, why was the pump replaced if it worked fine? What were the symptons to begin with (recovering from surgery so i am not reading the earlier responses). Lets not replace anything till you fill me in on what is going on. How many miles on this? nipper

Thats Europe. Driving habits are differnt. Fuel is differnt. Anyone can say anything they want on TV, you need lab results to back it up. Also it seems this smae guy makes the rounds as everyone has heard of him. If this was true every military peice of equipment would do the same. Also VW's have a huge sludge build up problem, as well as many other high mileage interval cars here in the states. Now if somone wnats to throw away thier warrenties on a 25,000 dollar car, they can do whatever they please. I for one wouldnt even advertise some person who goes against common sense. I bet the first people who would badmouth would be subaru if the car threw a ring at 25K. Being an automotive engineer, there is always one nutcase out there that does things like this. He does not say how much oil he adds between filter intervals, and this is where the fibs come in. All cars will use some oil over time, and have to be topped off. Some cars are 1qt ever 5000 miles (normal) some may be every 15, but it does happen. If they saythey never needed to thats BS. Also was he getting a special formular oil is another question. nipper

This is something any shop can handle I am asuming this is a manual. I prefer Metric but there is a sooby shop www.donaldsonsvw.com Call them in advance, they should be able to do it in a day. How old is the clutch? nipper

What year? nipper

Round with a flat area on the bottom. I think the OP has his heart set on blowing his hard earned money on a peice of junk. So be it. nipper