nipper

So the steering is stiff? Thats not a usual failure mode. Also form what I can tell is that the porblem existed before the pump was changed? Its not the PS seals, if it was the rack would be leaking. If the stering is stiff, inspect the Ball joints, Top hats, Tie rod ends. Racks when they go bad usually either leak or have no boost when cold. I dont trust anyone who changes a pump just because.

I would say its an engine coolant temp sensor, but what in heck is a 2003 singapore peanut eye ts ?

ATF and PS fluid are interchangable except for cars with electric power steering (and i am sure someone will say i am wrong but tough nuggies). My big question, why was the pump replaced if it worked fine? What were the symptons to begin with (recovering from surgery so i am not reading the earlier responses). Lets not replace anything till you fill me in on what is going on. How many miles on this? nipper

Thats Europe. Driving habits are differnt. Fuel is differnt. Anyone can say anything they want on TV, you need lab results to back it up. Also it seems this smae guy makes the rounds as everyone has heard of him. If this was true every military peice of equipment would do the same. Also VW's have a huge sludge build up problem, as well as many other high mileage interval cars here in the states. Now if somone wnats to throw away thier warrenties on a 25,000 dollar car, they can do whatever they please. I for one wouldnt even advertise some person who goes against common sense. I bet the first people who would badmouth would be subaru if the car threw a ring at 25K. Being an automotive engineer, there is always one nutcase out there that does things like this. He does not say how much oil he adds between filter intervals, and this is where the fibs come in. All cars will use some oil over time, and have to be topped off. Some cars are 1qt ever 5000 miles (normal) some may be every 15, but it does happen. If they saythey never needed to thats BS. Also was he getting a special formular oil is another question. nipper

This is something any shop can handle I am asuming this is a manual. I prefer Metric but there is a sooby shop www.donaldsonsvw.com Call them in advance, they should be able to do it in a day. How old is the clutch? nipper

What year? nipper

Round with a flat area on the bottom. I think the OP has his heart set on blowing his hard earned money on a peice of junk. So be it. nipper

Now now now i was trying not to be so negative. I could have mentioned the tires are still round. nipper

Rear axles rarely go bad. Diffs may go bad, but yours is young. If the axle turns with the wheel with no play it is not the axle. Use a stethascope to listen for the noise. If it is the diff just replace it. nipper

Dupli-color is the source of mine. this is making me feel much better about other products. i still remeber this horribly jelly stuff ewwwwwwwwwww

Not to mention all the quick-lubes and Jiffy lubes and the lawsuits. How many people do you know that actually opne the owners manual and read the fluid sepcs that cahng ethier own oil.

Oil when it is pure never goes bad, BUT there is no such thing as pure oil. Oil since day 1 has always had additive in it. Oil keeps dirt and stuff in suspension, and the filter doesnt always get all of that. There are many other additives in it that break down with time (same with synthetic). Engines designed to run synthetis can have real 15K oil changes, but i would NEVER let the life blood of a 20,000 plus dollar car go that long. This is why there are sludge issues killing engines. I have always said that if you want an eingine to last forever, 5000 miles on dino is perfect, and doing it sooner wont hurt anything. I use synthetic ( not all older cars can use it) becuas of short trips. Now a heads up. Engine requirements for oil are starting to get engine specific (almost as bad as transmission fluid). Not all oils will work in older engines, watch the specs on oil. Same goes for small engines. Don't assume oil is oil.

Just take a prybar to the tranny. Any seperation (it wil be obvious) the mount is shot. the diffentive way to find out is all 4 wheels off the ground, parking brake set, and have someone shift the car. it should clunk. If the PB doesnt work just a foot in the brake. Another way is to get back of the car on jack stands, and rotate the wheel frwd and bckwrd by hand, it may clunk that way if it is the shafts.

I have been gettin 3 hours sleep everynight this week so please bare with me for the next week or so... I only have surface rust. I am trying the color match (or whatever it is called in the all the autoparts stores). They have a rust killer. I used it under the battery of the Justy. There was minor rust. I sprayed it on and it did turn the rust black, as it is supposed to. It took longer then it sadi to dry but I never worry about that. the justy has really really minor rust so it really doesnt justify the smallest can of POR15. Has anyone used this to stop rust, and has it worked. If it hasnt, i guess i'll bite the bullit. Only one little spot needs paiting to match the body, other spots are on the edges and wont be noticied. nipper

Convinced yet?

Transmission mount, exhaust pipe, then i will agree. nipper

copycat

That sounds like a lot. Before you condm them, check your universal joints and carrier bearing. It is rare that the rears go bad since they have a really easy life. nipper

They don't work.

http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm no you connect it to a vacume line.

Yes. A vacume gauge will help rule out many other things, and if it is dramatically low, will point to bad compression. nipper

One word, MOLD. You may have sunk your car, but how long has this been sitting . Flood does not mean, "oh shoot i drove into too deep a hole and need to get out of it before i drown, and the car out before it is ruined". Flood means the car was parked, water rushed in, and the car had water in it for many hours or days. But as I say, If people wish to through thier money away on a gamble that has unknown risks, enjoy. The car may not cost much, but how much money and time are you willing to throw away/put into it. ECU is a crap shoot. Engine as long as the water did not get in the intake MAY be ok, but i wouldnt want it even for parts. There is the chance of rusted timing belt tensioners and idlers. The Diffs are not a matter of pulling them down, but replacing them, unlses you have the space and time to tear them down. Brakes are not just cleaning up the rotors. you have calipers and sliders that seize. the one thing I dont expect any issues with is the brake fluid as that is a sealed system. There is a perfectly valid reason why insurance compaines total flood cars no questions asked. nipper

It's easy, drain the old oil put in synthetic. I would never ever ever recomend an engine flush product of any kind, period. As it is the Syn may knock some gunk loose (not a bad thing). Same with gear lube. I would personally be hesitant to use syn in a tranny, but others have. nipper

I would trust Gates or Goodyear. nipper

Isnt it cold down there, or close to it? The tranmission wil hold gears untill it warms up. Also you can manually shift the car. Have you checked the tranny fluid level? There isnt a hell of a lot that can be done as it is puter controlled. Say, disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and let the memories clear, see if that helps. nipper