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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. i have seen many so called "Subaru experts" and have has private msgs, and as soon as they say they are an expert, i tell them to run the other direction. This guy is nuts. Steering is as importatn as brakes (wonder if he ever pyts P/S fluid in the brakes to stop the fluid from absorbing water - same logic - none). Just replace the rack. nipper
  2. the do run run .... Do you wnat them to do this all the time or do you want the option of turning them on with the ignition switch off.
  3. Wooo slow down. I see many things wrong with this, first how many miles on this car. Have you EVER done a tuneup on this car? plugs wires PCV vlaves Fuel Filter Ait Filter. Why did you buy a used exhaust system and Cats. it sounde to me, since you passed CA emissions, you do not need cats, you most likely need a new O2 sensor.
  4. No no no it has to be A B C or D None of the above was NOT an option. hehehehe rear wheel bearings are fairly robust, which is why sometimes we forget about them, including me. nipper
  5. If your going to fix it, I wouldnt cancel that order, replace them anyway.
  6. You ALWAYS need to do Maint on a car, doesnt mater if it is highway miles or around the block. I bought one of those "all highway miles so only needed once a year oil changes" cars. the engine blew 10K after i bought it. nipper
  7. Im going with again a driveshaft. Next time it happens put your hand on the center console, it should feel strongest there. http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/ Thats who I would recomend. Many have used them with no issues. Now sometimes time is your best diagnostician. The driveshaft is no where near falling out of the car yet. If it is the driveshaft, soon the speed it starts at will drop to 60, then 55, then 50. If it does drop down (and it will) you have your answer. nipper
  8. I get it the first R to D shift, i never worried or thought about it. nipper
  9. this is easy, it is atuneup and a front O2 sensor. Dont fix the O2 sensor you may never get rid of the stumble. nipper
  10. OE Thermostat only At 203,000 miles, I dont think it would be the original waterpump, if it is thats a possible issue. Something simple, replace the radiator cap. Alos at the mileage, inspect the radiator physically. Make sure all the cooling fins behind the condenser are in one peice. It is also possible the radiator is clogged. nipper
  11. EEEK i have never paid more then 675.00 for all those parts and work, thats a freaking ripoff.
  12. Yes. Well no now. Endwrench totally reworked thier site, and took down a lot of information, including that. You can search here and look at idlers that failed after a timing belt was done. If you dont do so be it, but it is cheap insurance, since the engine is already apart its easy to do. I always do, and never would tell a customer not to do it. Wow i really don't like what endwrench did to the site. So many ads for subaru parts. 80% of the old info is gone
  13. You have torque bind and the clutch pack needs to be replaced. When it doesnt go away with the FWD fuse, you either have a failed solenoid, a dying solenoid, a bad clutch pack or all of the above. The other problem is now much easier. It sounds like the starter contacts. you do not need to replace the starter. The contacts are replaceable. nipper
  14. Ah yes grasshoper ... You can look for play in the universals, but you need to take them down and see if they are seized. Mine had a lot of play in them, others had them seized. The innner tie rod end is a little tough. It doesnt take much play, in facct the play may be almost impossible to see. New inner tie rod ends are a really tough to move around, and i mean tough (in the ball socket). Worn ones will just flop around. If you a torn boot on the tierod end, odds are it is shot due to age and mileage. The traditional way to look for lay through observation is really hard on an inner. The boot hides any visiual play unless it is really OMG bad. YOu can jack up that corner of the car and wiggle the wheel while watching the tie rod end for any play. If the inner is really bad you may be able to feel it. nipper
  15. Subaru recomends replacing all pullies with a timing belt change. Very few of them last as many miles as was stated above, it is not worth the risk. Most the time they give up the ghost 30-40,000 miles later. replace the tensioner, same reason. replace the water pump as murphys law dictates it will leak after the TB change. Again they are designed for 105K so anything past that is free, but you have to dig into it like another timing belt. Bad grosgary, he skipped some parts. Cam seals. Main seal. Re-seal the oil pump. That will take care of sny future (and they will happen) oil leaks.
  16. How odd It seems like most the reports of stolen cars on here come from the PNW. nipper
  17. I noticed at the Autoshow it is a mixed bag. Some went to lights, some are still using gauges. I think it may be the desgn cycle. I remember my Uncles Chevy when i was little had a cold light and a hot light. nipper
  18. *makes note and files it away*
  19. If i remember correctly from when I owned the same car, the answer is no. There was some oddness about autos and manuals having a different number of splines, which is bad enough to match up properly. Most stores dont know this or really don't care as the rbuilders dont mark the boxes properly. . Loyale is a differnt animalall together.
  20. If you do not know what you are doing, do not do it. This is one of the few systems on a car that I REALLY recomend going to a professional. Refrigerant doesnt just dissapear, it leaks out due to a bad O ring usually. Refrigerant can easily give you serious frost bite at the very least, or damage you AC system. Like everyone else said, the gauges on those cans are there for decoration. You really need a real gauge set to add refrigerant safely. nipper
  21. i don't see anything listed about a valve adjustment, tuneup. Have you taken a vacum gauge to the engine to see how it is running internally. Sort of everything you have thrown at it is like cutting off your foot for an ingrown toe-nail. You need to get the car back to the way it was originally (aside from the cat for now) to really do a good diagnoses.

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