nipper

Darn i was going to guess Eastern. I agree with above, shop that is good at this kind of thing, as not all shops are. nipper

:-p

That won't help. Trouble codes and the ECU are just tools. You still need to properly diagnose the issue. I dont think you want to spend 1500.00 for a car-puter or try to hide a laptop that is continously running. The ECU does have more codes, but if it is a hard code it will be stored.

Why?

We can't even guess what it is without having the code read. nipper

BTW it is not ujoints. They start at higher speed and start working down (shows up at 75, then 70, then 65, then 60), clunk, or really vibrate at all times (thier death moans). nipper

Brake discs slightly flex, ever so slightly when torqued. Normally its not an issue, but if you have an out of round disc, worn brakes, and the moon is in the sign of Libra, it can cause a squeek. nipper

Semi-permenitly. It has to be unplugged for inspection and i have used it in others cars (with a little effort to get it out). Yes temp gauges have been buffered after electric fans started being used widespread. Customers were complaining that there cars would start to get hot then the temp needle would drop. I don't consider it a biggie when it comes to monitoring the engine temp. nipper

Could be a tire and a brake, both brake discs out of round, a wheel beainrg etc. Lets rule out things we know are bad, and go from there.

My car whistles (chirps) only at specific points and not all the time, so do not rule that out yet. The vibration can be the fact you need brakes. Fix the brakes first before we start using scattershot to try and diagnose it. Could be a warped rotor, an out of balance wheel, a broken belt in the tire. Move one tire at a time front to rear and see if it changes. Even if the tires are brand new you can still have a seperated belt. nipper

It is more of a whistle. The biggest cause for this is a loose air cleaner, or somehting leaking or loss in the air intake system. What happens under WOT like getting on a highway?

No that is junk. How can i tell? "Aluminized steel" is junk. In less then 2 years it will be rusted. Look for Walker pipes, they last a long long time. Go to Rock auto to start, and confirm by going to the Walker catalog itself. Having just done this on my 97' the cat/pipe bolts are a real ***************. Even when they are cut off they put up a fight. Youe need a grinder, though i did well with a dremel tool. i had to take mine to midas finally due to a rotted flange on the converter. Go to RockAuto as I think we get a discount. The wlaker cat hardware kit has everything you need. The rear muffler should be alot easier, just snap those bolts. nipper

this isnt chincing out, this is due to limited real-estate on the dash. The fuel consumptio meter is a federal required thing, as more and more cars are having them, and mfg's would not do somehting like that voluntairily. But i will agree with anew dash design they could have squeezed it in someplace, even in the LCD display. nipper

Don't panic. If you were turning by hand and stopped as soon as there was resistance, there is most likely no damage. Turning it by hand i doubt created it by force to damage anything. Do like was mentioned above. nipper

Borrow or rent a code reader from an autoparts store, as sometimes they are more finetuned then something off ebay. i love my scantool but sometimes there are codes it just locks up on, or says there is a fault but then there is no code (like my recent EGR valve). nipper

EGR won't keep the car from starting, it may cause driveability issues. i had that and it gave me hesitation, and it turned out to be the backpressure transducer. nipper

One little detail everyone is ommiting. The Tranny light blinks for the the last previous cycle of the car. i think this is coincidence. Now on to the bigger issues. How many miles are on this car. You need suck squish boom to make a car run. It is easy to check for boom. See if you have any spark. Suck and squish are effected by the timing belt. The car dying at speed is usually disturbing, but for now lets start with the basics. And a tuneup wouldnt hurt, but lets confirm the spark first. nipper

that should be interesting, greasing the front pads Clean the slide pins with some scotchbrite then lubricate them. nipper

Whats scary is i've seen some V-6's called big engines. Maybe they just mean by HP. Funny how in europe 1.2L and incredibly long 0-60 times (times that would be considered dangerous here) are acceptable. nipper

Find one locally. Imagine if that one went bad, an online shop can just go poof. Imagine the shipping charge. As far asi ti being 1/2 off, I dont know. the original price sounded way to high to me. Call around and see what a local yard gets for an auto tranny. nipper

Have someone do a leak test on it. It sounds like the PO was trying to a fix a problem he couldnt trace down. nipper

Yes they dont seem to build thier cars to the tightest performance and dimmension they can get away with. Also they like tiny engines so they tend to have more room to allow for a bigger sump, i never noticed to tell the truth. I just know with the stupidly small capacity they are causing cludge issues. I dare anyone to do that with any of the engines that have had sludge issues and see how far they get When we used jet turbines to power helicopter towed mine sweepers we had oil change intervals. Maybe it was the fast cycling. We did oil analysis but still had to change the oil. the hydraulic oil we never changed.

I googled it. After getting a lot of peanut butter and peanut oil recipies, Ebay came through http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-04-06-Impreza-GD-D-STI-WRX-Peanut-Eye-Hood-Scoop-/300420030266 Its an Imp.

For the 4th time on here i am in a fog. Disconnect the rack and see if it binds anywhere while he turns the wheels. Ever think the "good pump" had crud in it and clogged the rack. Make sure the P/S hoses are good and have good flow. If he contaminated the rack with something fomr the 2nd pump, makes sense that the 1st pump wont work. http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/power-steering-fluid-5209/ http://bbs.scoobynet.com/general-technical-10/806748-is-auto-transmission-fluid-the-same-as-power-steering-fluid.html Usually the PS cap will say what fluid to use, and most Japanese cars use ATF fluid (again except electric boost). It is hard to say what is what when it is all over the phone. he also may have had other issues with the leaking pump that got worse when he restored the pump pressure. If he is not interested in properly diagnosing things, heck, neither am I

before we go anywhere, who made these "cheap cats" . I have a feeling i know and that can be the source of the entire issue. Have you replaced the cheap cats with a better one? When the cats run hotter then designed you are not buring anything off. You are melting the catalyst.