nipper

Has no idle, needs a mid-pipe (anyone know a source?), abdly corroded wiper connector (may the only place I have to do surgery) Needs a timing belt (original) some body work, minor dents and minor rust. Valve cover leaks. Going to rebuild brakes. Will get a rebuilt carb. I am great at rebuilding them, but no space and sometimes it just pays to spend the bucks. Going to relocate the oil filter as there is just too small an oil capacity. nipper

As Justy says goodbye to his old home. (damn that trailer was alot longer then I expected) Blu sniffing the Justy's rear bumper I think there is a spec of dirt under there somewhere, yes that is all original including the shiney parts

Justy is home. He has a rotted out exhaust pipe right behind the flex joint. Anyone have a source for this?

Please only make one post, as it confuses everyone when there are two covering the same subject. nipper

Start with the sender and work your way up to the complicated (expensive) items. in the mean time dont use the car. if the sender doesnt do it buy a cheap mechanical oil pressure gauge and see what it says.

At 285K i would replace the inner tie rod ends and ball joints wheather you need them or not. It is amazing how such minute play in the inner tie rod ends can cause issues. I replaced mine, they didnt even have freeplay but they moved around freely in the ball socket. the new one was a bear to move, but it made all the difference in the world. The groan can be balljoints. Racks dont clunk when they go bad unless they are loose. If it was my car (i did it at 230K) i woudl just rebuild the front end first. the steering wheel lock is wear and tear. It isnt worth digging into as long as it works.

What is under warrenty is the web belt only. The rest of the mechanisim is not under warrenty. nipper

If there is no cat no matter what trick he uses it isnt going to work.

A stethascope can be awooden dowel put to your ear. Best to do this with the accesory drive belt off the car can run for this test without the alt as it will take only 15 minutesnnwill also give you safer acess to the timing covers, This method works veyry well. This is something the shop should have done. nipper

Is hard to take O2 reding seriously at this point as A- he has a miss B- he has no cats, meowless he is. nipper

Take a tech with you an dpoint out the noise. I have afeeling this will turn out bad. With the car running look at the main pulley. If it has any wobble at all tow it back to the shop. Remove the drive belt for the accessories and see if the noise goes away, oor spray them with water while it is running and see if the noise changes or go aways. Did they replace the waterpump? Are you SURE the replaced the tensioner and idlers? ARe you secure and brave enough to do the stethascope test? Is this a tinny sound or a deep sound? Is the oil full? Where does it soundlike it is coming from, front or rear of the engine. Manual or auto? This can be a coincidence so i am not ready to condem the shop yet. nipper

Pay no attention to the Cat codes, you have no cat, so ignore it, as you can not do anything about it. Have you done the water test? Spray a mist of water on the coils in the evening and look for sparklies? Thast where i would start. Did you use subaru wires? What kind of plugs did you use?

It is a heavier car then the 99. It also has a differnt gear ratio most likely. Every year newer on a car is another heavier model. The consumers want more and expect more every year. form the 99 to the 2004 crash standards may have changed and added weight. nipper

No you dont. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html Camshaft Belt (timing belt) 2.5L 4 cylinder (note: 6 cyls have timing chain, should not need replacement)

Did you replace the washer behind the nut? (I got 3 hrs sleep so i apologize for being absent minded). There is a washer/spacer/thingy that is supposed to be replaced. nipper

Heat Sheild. this is common on most cars. Just use a hose clamp to fix it. nipper

Check to see if water is oily. If not its your dying water pump and not dying a full flush that is doing it. Aleays replace a waterpump, idlers tensioner and timing belt together, otherwise Mr Murphy shows up. nipper

Since you know exactly where the part came from and I dont, give me your email and I will send you the FSM for the tranny from a 1998 and then you can find it. nipper

And thats the technical name too!

It is also called the Jiggler Valve. nipper

Just replace it not something to cheap out on unless you like the idea of chainging headgaskets. nipper

Yup replace everything and insepct the pullies for wear. nipper

!st, how did you fill the cooling system You may have a air pocket in the cooling system. If not then Head Gasket. Clogged raditor would overheat or run hot depending on load, OP says it is always overheating.

Lets do the sinple things BEFORE somone screams HG. Temp gauge is working fine (why do people blame the gauges?) Replace the thermostat with one from subaru and the radiator cap. Never doubt the temp gauge as it can get you in expensive trouble weather it is right or wrong. It sounds like your T stat is only opening 1/2 way. nipper

Well so fare almost everone is saying no matter what the clutch has to come apart. i dont really suspect hydraulics, but its a possability, especially with a 18yo driver + the mileage. nipper