nipper

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/en_b11/type_29/exhaust_system/exhaust/illustration_2/ Right where parts 14 15 16 17 are Those flanges, the one on the cat was rotted.

Blu had been getting noisey. The donut and flange (I didnt know about the flange) after 267,000 miles gave up. Doesnt anything last anymore? I tried and tried untill i saw the rotted flange. I called Meineke. I told them I did not want a cat otherwise I would find another shop (the cat flange was rotted). They cam back with 154.00 to put in a sleeve (85.00 an hour 1 hour minimum). They actually charged by the weld. I had it in my mind 100.00. I was there, the car was on the lift, no other mufler shop in town. I bit the bullit. I hope Blu is happy now as he has been getting jelouse of the justy.

Lets back up a bit. how many miles, and is it an auto (i never assume). Does it sound louder on turns? I would inspect the front CV joints first and look for torn boots.

www.cars101.com has instructions how to reset it. nipper

Videos are usless as they pick up all the noises. Does it come from the front of the engine (a timing belt part) or the middle or the rear (cracked flex plate). Remove all the drive belts start the car and using a broom handle, wooden dowel etc stick one end on your ear and probe around with the other. Check the engeni too.

Is this an engine knock?

As with any issue like this, the very first step is a full tuneup. Does it just cut out or does it stmble then stall. Try shifting right to Neutral then putting it in D with your foot off the brake, does it run or stall with a lurch?

Been talking to DustysJusties. Heis considered to be the Guru of Justies. He said one can use a straight pipe. Thanks all. When it gets on the road i will go to amuffler shop and see if they can do it cheaper then the part costs.

Local as in high school dropouts working there are local as in mom and pop?

The one in the Justy is farily, er um, rigid. They are tuned not to transmit engine vibartion and movement. Yhere is a lot more forces from the engine then from your hands. This may also solve a problem I have had with Blus exhaust system since the lift. nipper

wohoo thats a start

that may work Gee resale value on a Justy ... hrmmmm resale goes up as gas prices do, and no one cares what it looks like:) it is last on my list of things to do. As my father said, if it looked good at 60,ph he was happy, and this doesnt. nipper

Okso then i have to restore the paint on the roof. Luckily it is just the roof nipper

http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spray_paint.asp this seems to be the company everyone uses. nipper

I figured i would ask here since nothing else is working. Anyone have a source for exhaust systems? Its an 89 2dr 2wd.

I need the mid-pipe that has the flex joint. All aftermarket pipes omit the flex joint. I have an email into 1st subaru to see if this even exists anymore (it is listed on the website but a bit pricey) nipper

The clearcoat on the rof of the justy is shot. Si there any way of fixing this without repainintg the roof? This would be a spray-can job with the proper matching paint and proper clear coat. nipper

Has no idle, needs a mid-pipe (anyone know a source?), abdly corroded wiper connector (may the only place I have to do surgery) Needs a timing belt (original) some body work, minor dents and minor rust. Valve cover leaks. Going to rebuild brakes. Will get a rebuilt carb. I am great at rebuilding them, but no space and sometimes it just pays to spend the bucks. Going to relocate the oil filter as there is just too small an oil capacity. nipper

As Justy says goodbye to his old home. (damn that trailer was alot longer then I expected) Blu sniffing the Justy's rear bumper I think there is a spec of dirt under there somewhere, yes that is all original including the shiney parts

Justy is home. He has a rotted out exhaust pipe right behind the flex joint. Anyone have a source for this?

Please only make one post, as it confuses everyone when there are two covering the same subject. nipper

Start with the sender and work your way up to the complicated (expensive) items. in the mean time dont use the car. if the sender doesnt do it buy a cheap mechanical oil pressure gauge and see what it says.

At 285K i would replace the inner tie rod ends and ball joints wheather you need them or not. It is amazing how such minute play in the inner tie rod ends can cause issues. I replaced mine, they didnt even have freeplay but they moved around freely in the ball socket. the new one was a bear to move, but it made all the difference in the world. The groan can be balljoints. Racks dont clunk when they go bad unless they are loose. If it was my car (i did it at 230K) i woudl just rebuild the front end first. the steering wheel lock is wear and tear. It isnt worth digging into as long as it works.

What is under warrenty is the web belt only. The rest of the mechanisim is not under warrenty. nipper