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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. I agree. Maybe he screwed up the sensors. Usually ABS stops working, it doesnt become hypersensative UNLESS a tone ring is not truning with the axle. Maybe it is loose and free-wheeling. nipper
  2. Sounds perfectly valid to me. Some compressors have a crankase that hold oil, some have oil in the refrigerant, some have both. No it wouldnt be leaking refrigerant, eventually it will seize up. You can just wait for that to happen if you dont beleive them, but then it would add the cost of a receiver/dryer and to flush out the AC system. nipper
  3. Water is a lubricant. If the noise disapears then you either have a loose belt or a bad belt. nipper
  4. I'm bowing out of this one. KNowing very well how the 4eat works and the AWD if you wish to chase things down knock yourself out. Goodluck.
  5. I doubt it, the two are not related. Logic tells me it is a hydraulic issue. When the fluid is cold, its thick. It can transmit more force and not leak as quickly thorugh seals. As it warms up it thins out and losses the ability to transmit force as well and can leak through seals. If the At Temp light is not flashing it is not electrical. Also could you please pick just one thread to walk off of, it gets confusing.
  6. ewwwwwwwwwww brand new with a blown seal? I wonder what it really was internally. Maybe a line pressure seal? nipper
  7. Because there are many different types of ABS systems out there, so many differnt procedures. Some cars have the abs built into the master cylinder, haninging off the master cylinder, a seperate pump, differnt feed back loops etc. Thats like asking why do all cars look different (or used to). You can vac bleed, but you dont have to.
  8. The level is supposed to be checkes with the car running and transmission hot after goingthorugh all the gears. Fluid squirting out is not normal. I wonder why the PO did that on your car with the vent tubes. The tranny is always tough to fill on a car, overfilling is not unusual. nipper
  9. On some cars yes, but most cars no. Subaru is not one of them, but you do have to bleed from the closest wheel first. nipper
  10. Sounds like the car sat a lot, they dont usually get that rusty. May as well check all of them then.
  11. No. Physically inspect the sensors. They heed to be perfectly cylinder shapes. They tend to erode around the edges, then they dont have a good signal and will throw codes. Tonerings dont usually break (it happens) unless they are disturbed (or a big pothole). Even then it would only be one. nipper
  12. I think it is a black box under the sotrage pocket ot the center console. You had the entire dash apart? I bet you forgot something. It may be easier to just pull the codes. This should be basically the same as yours http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21193 nipper
  13. Did you by chance unplug or disturb the G sensor? I thik it is in the console in the center of the car. (I may be wrong). nipper
  14. The light (if it) flashes 16 times means there was an electrical fault the last time the car was operated, and there will be codes. this is NOT an obd2 code, but a seperate code set and procedure. how many miles on this anyway?
  15. If this is a 4eat it may just be the AWD solenoid clicking. It is not anything to worry about by itself. They can be noisey. nipper
  16. http://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Wiring/Subaru/Legacy/1997/118461.html?vehicleid=1997 It just plugs into the harness plug on the drivers side tailight. The video they show is for a forester but its the same plugs.
  17. If the rack isnt binding or leaking, lets blame the pump. they are cheap enough, and they do go bad. You could drain the fluid through a coffee filter and look for metal. I have never heard of a rack loosing its boost and not having leaks or binding, but I have heard of pumps (age) giving up the ghost. Otherwise we have to get a pressure gauge and some hose and tee fittings. Since there are only 4 parts to this system (2 hoses rack and pump) I suggest the pump. nipper
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