nipper

Transmissions havent changed since the 1st say they were made. They need Line Pressure Road speed (Used to be the govenor now the VSS) Engine Load (used to be the vac modulator) Forced downshift (Usually a cable from the throttle). Engine load has come from engine vacume. There is a throttle input to the TCU, but the more important one for shifting is the MAP sensor. If he can get up to speed, there may be a problem with how the car is reading engine load. I manot ruling out the TPS, but if the engine responds to throttle, I wouldnt look there first. What happens if the OP manually shifts the car. nipper

Any CEL? Any flashing tranny light? First thing to do is a full flush. I wouldnt go after the TPS, I would go after the MAP sensor myself, but change the fluid first. nipper

I vote for going to the dealer. Just a little something bout older keys. They tend to use the first few notches for the door, and the other few notches for the ignition. Thats why you can sometimes open a door with someone elses key, or start the car with someone elses key, but rarely you can do both. nipper

Junk it, only God knows what other rust is lurking. nipper

And you my freind, cant say for sure what it is either, Need i point out taht anydiagnoses on a board is speculation since we do not have the car in our driveways or shops, and the car is fully disassembled at this point. So my freind, you may be just as wrong as you think I am. Either way, I still have my doubts as to the valves being the issue. And sorry I have seen OBDII scanners miss CTS sensors dead spots especially if the problem is intermittent. Even the OBDII has a sampling rate as does ALL digital readers. In this case I think the shop is releying on the monitor and skipping common sense.

Haynes has the curve.

DVMs work by sampling the data. They have a speed at which they take the signal, process it, and display it. Ever wonder why DVM's go from 19.00 up to 300.00 or more? Part of it is the features, the major part of it is the sampling rate. Even with the highest price DVM, it can still miss data due to sampling rates. This is why you should have a cheap analog meter, which is a constant reading. It is quite possible that a DVM can miss a dead spot in sensor that has a constantly variably analog signal. nipper

NO! Only chnage one thing at a time, but the way this shop is going, it will be pure luck that they find the cause or fix the probblem because they have no idea on how to diagnose a problem. I would laugh like hell if this comes all down to a bad CTS. I doubt they truly tested it, as the only way is to remove it, put in a pot with ice water, slowly heat the ice water to boiling while connected to a analog ohm meter. nipper

One of two things. Either the FPR is sticking, or more likely, some vacume leak that clses itself up as the engine heats up and everything expands. If it is a sticking FPR (again that would have been easy to find with a pressure gauge), it will show up after they are done. If it is the scond, they may fix it by sheer luck. nipper

Drops out the exhaust pipe is normal. Cat glowing red is a fuel issue, not a valve issue. I dont think the velve job will correct the issue, but they correct it upon putting everything together (like a vac leak). nipper

So you want the entire list? you dont say how many miles. Valve cover gaskets Sparkplug gromits Plugs PCV valve Thermostat Timing belt Idlers Tensioners Main Seal Cam Seal Accessory drive belt Water pump Oil Change Ignition Wires

I really dont like this shop. No reason for it to need an engine. Who did the heads the first time, a valve job should have been done then. What diagnostic tests did they run after they soaked you for a cat? HOw did they come to the conclusion all of a sudden it is dirty valves?

It's already there as designed. Subarus with the stock system already have a CAI. It is also designed to keep the car from sucking in water when going through a deep puddle (this is hydrolock). Water does not compress. When it gets sucked into an engine the engine basically bends many internal parts in very lethal (for the engine and your wallet) ways. Unless you are running a refrigeration coil on the wir intake, for 6 months of the year no matter what you think a aftermarket CAI system is, it is going to be sucking in hot air. The factory set up works well. nipper

Wow that engine is really wedged in there. Not alot of room for it to rock side to side. Looks so pretty though. nipper

Open the hood. Look at the right front of the car. You will see a snorkle there. Follow it to the front of the car. WALLAH you have a cold air intake. The car somes with one. And most cold air intakes are mistaken. Some people think a filter under the hood is CAI, and its not. Others strip out the snorkus and put a filter inside thr front right fender, and thats a just a hot road in summer intake 9not to mention a great wet vac if you drive through deep water)> nipper

Go back and inspect your work. Also inspect ball joints, tie rod ends and rack mounts. Are you sure those struts were good? nipper

Thats what i was afraid of. We have enough "fun" with puddles of unknown depth when it is warm and dry. Getting around with everything white and without a decent gps that does trails would be at the very least a challange, and AAA may not come out there. nipper

I always wanted to do that to a corvair. A fwd control Corvan would be perfect. nipper

http://www.subarugears.com/index.htm Reverse ground ring gear for a sooby differnential. I found this interesting.

http://www.offroadsubarus.com/ http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14738&highlight=lift+kit The offroad board has a lot of aussies on it, but i remeber there being a USA kit for lifting that generation Sooby on there. nipper

"new" or "I got them from subaru yesterday" new. Unless they are the later I wouldnt say it hasnt been diagnosed. Also you need to do a real tuneup, plugs, wires, filters, CV valve. This being a 1998, it may be overdue for a timing belt. On a 2.2 it is every 60,000 miles (1 month = 1000 miles) With it being such low miles the 2nd timing belt may past it's life, assuming that the first one was ever replaced. Check the timing belt. nipper

"When driving my 2010 Impreza Premium (manual transmission) in situations where the AWD is engaged (getting unstuck, doing donuts, uphill on slick surfaces, any tire slippage while trying to move forward) I get a strong clutch burning smell" I'm seeing driver abuse here. Yes you will smell clutch when you beat the snot of the car. nipper

Maybe he had two subarus with bad timing belts?

Upstream O2 sensor should be replaced with OE, they are not cleanable since the oxydizer tends to ear off with time. It is a wear part. The brake calipers. Are you sure the calipers are truly (cant save them no matter what) seized, or is it just a matter of taking them apart and cleaning the slider pins. nipper

GD slightly off topic, as i havent had a rusted/bad tank since high school. How much does it cost to clean out a tank these days and do radiator shops still do this? I know with plastic fuel tanks this is a dying service for passenger cars. nipper