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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. Ok then i vote for checking the Alt, laso how old are your iginiton wires?
  2. Look on the bright side, if he keeps doing clutch dumps, someone here can sell him a transmission (even new subaru manual transmissions do not like this). nipper
  3. Yes calipers are safe to buy from anywhere. nipper
  4. Closest wheel first to the.... Hrmmmm Good question. Passenger side front is the closest wheel because it has the shortest brake lines. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/BrakeSystemWin01.pdf Surprisingly (learn something new every day) it is right Frt, Left Rr, Left Fr, Right Rr.
  5. Just start at the closest wheel first. Go to www.endwrench.com for specifics. nipper
  6. AN analog multimeter can test the crank sensor. Its an ac signal it puts out, a simple hall effect sensor. ANother is the coils, or the ignitor. And igniotr can drive you batty. nipper
  7. I agree. Maybe he screwed up the sensors. Usually ABS stops working, it doesnt become hypersensative UNLESS a tone ring is not truning with the axle. Maybe it is loose and free-wheeling. nipper
  8. I just put the car in neutral and it stops fine.
  9. Sounds perfectly valid to me. Some compressors have a crankase that hold oil, some have oil in the refrigerant, some have both. No it wouldnt be leaking refrigerant, eventually it will seize up. You can just wait for that to happen if you dont beleive them, but then it would add the cost of a receiver/dryer and to flush out the AC system. nipper
  10. Water is a lubricant. If the noise disapears then you either have a loose belt or a bad belt. nipper
  11. Get the code, otherwise our suggestions are just scattershot. nipper
  12. I'm bowing out of this one. KNowing very well how the 4eat works and the AWD if you wish to chase things down knock yourself out. Goodluck.
  13. I doubt it, the two are not related. Logic tells me it is a hydraulic issue. When the fluid is cold, its thick. It can transmit more force and not leak as quickly thorugh seals. As it warms up it thins out and losses the ability to transmit force as well and can leak through seals. If the At Temp light is not flashing it is not electrical. Also could you please pick just one thread to walk off of, it gets confusing.
  14. ewwwwwwwwwww brand new with a blown seal? I wonder what it really was internally. Maybe a line pressure seal? nipper
  15. Because there are many different types of ABS systems out there, so many differnt procedures. Some cars have the abs built into the master cylinder, haninging off the master cylinder, a seperate pump, differnt feed back loops etc. Thats like asking why do all cars look different (or used to). You can vac bleed, but you dont have to.
  16. The level is supposed to be checkes with the car running and transmission hot after goingthorugh all the gears. Fluid squirting out is not normal. I wonder why the PO did that on your car with the vent tubes. The tranny is always tough to fill on a car, overfilling is not unusual. nipper
  17. On some cars yes, but most cars no. Subaru is not one of them, but you do have to bleed from the closest wheel first. nipper
  18. Sounds like the car sat a lot, they dont usually get that rusty. May as well check all of them then.
  19. No. Physically inspect the sensors. They heed to be perfectly cylinder shapes. They tend to erode around the edges, then they dont have a good signal and will throw codes. Tonerings dont usually break (it happens) unless they are disturbed (or a big pothole). Even then it would only be one. nipper
  20. I think it is a black box under the sotrage pocket ot the center console. You had the entire dash apart? I bet you forgot something. It may be easier to just pull the codes. This should be basically the same as yours http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21193 nipper

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