nipper

The ATF filters I can see that happening as they have a very long interval. Fram is junk really, unless your using a very short oil change interval, but I would never use one.

It is a surprsingly small engine. Aside from the fun of doing it, it is going to get poor gas mileage. I think you may have to keep the mazda accessories as i dont know how sooby stuff will hold up to the higher Rpm's. But looks like fun. nipper

This is a bad idea. You are going from 135 horsepower, 4 cylinder boxer engine, 16 valve single overhead cam, multiport fuel injected (140 ft lbs torque), electronic distributorless ignition to 90 hp@5200 101Lbs Torque@2800 with SPI. The cra will get crap gas milege as it is going to work twice as hard to move the legacy. Climbing a hill or passing will be a challange. You will be doing alot more shifting if it is a manual, and an auto will not be happy at all, even with an external cooler. It may even be impossible to make the auto happy with the engine mgmt of the 1.8 The 1.8 is engineered for much smaller tires then the Legacy so those torque numbers (drive wheel torque = flywheel torque x first gear x final drive x 0.85 : wheel thrust = drive wheel torque / rolling radius) will actually be far smaller. This conversion would be undriveable for the mere reason it would be so underpowered it could never get on a highway. nipper

If you have a broken sensor the ABS won't function to begin with. nipper

Easy test, swap wires. But sort of unlikely since it happens when hot. nipper

Check for moisture getting into the scokets , thats where i would start, especialy if it is always the same signal that goes out. nipper

For future refence, you test an Alt with everything on and car above 1800 rpm. At idle can tell you if it is really bad, but may still pass. nipper

Ignition coils fail in the way you describe. Once they heat up they fail. The internal insulation is breaking down, It is hard to find when cold if not impossible. nipper

Ah he edited it.

I am a little confused. 1997 legacies came with the 2.2L engine (unless a GT or LSI). As a rule they do not have a HG issue, but any engine at high mileage can blow a head gasket. All bets are off over 120K, so it is not the 2.2L fault in this case, it is just one of those things. Or do you want a newer 2.2L, or a 2.5 swap? nipper

Thats still to many miles on oil. SUbaru says 7500 no matter what the oil is. I have yet to see the gas mileage increas on synthetic, but it does give me peace of mind on lots of short trips in winter. If you are going that many miles, you need to do a filter change at leats at 7500 miles. I dont care what the filter people say, as they try to make one filter fit as many cars as possible, so no two engines are alike in thier needs. Replceing a PCV valve will help brunfing oil, but his oil consumption is not excessive.

Thats what I was going to suggest next. nipper

NO, zGod i hate these old wives tales. Detuned means less effecient, and thats just BS. They have a higher effeciency cat, a faster cat warm up. What is PZEV, a brief, simple summary The EPA says a PZEV is the cleanest running gas car on today's market based on emissions testing for carbon-containing compounds, oxides of nitrogen, particulate matter, and other tailpipe nastiness. It is required in CA, CT, NJ, NY, MA, ME, RI, VT, PA, OR, and WA 1. A charcoal cannister catches unburned gas left in the engine when it's turned off so it doesn't just evaporate. 2. Fuel injectors that close tighter when they're not in use. 3. A finer mesh in the catalytic converter, as well as optimized placement of its precious metal. 4. The engine's electronic brain is tuned to run the hot at start up to help the catalytic converter heat up so it can start doing its job faster.

yup thats why i said try to push it, It will tell you right away with the drive shaft disconnected if the rear is locked up. nipper

When was the last oil change? I have never ever have an issue with purolator filters in 20 years. If i saw that in my shop i would think the filter hadnt been changed in a year. Are you in a salt belt?

they have been around for a couple of years. http://www.drive.subaru.com/Fall08/Fall08_whatmakes.htm nipper

I am not too familiar with this, but ill give it a shot. Usually rear diffs dont just seize. They die a long noisy death. They will develop a whine that get slouder with speed, then one day the gears will just strip. Now if it is a mechanical LSD, then yes it is possible it threw something. mechanical LSDs can seize, but it is very rare. The first thing I would try is to disconnect the driveshaft and see if the car will move (by pushing since this is manual). There aretwo possible scenarios here, and one is ugly. A wheel bearing wont seize, but would really develop alot of play and alot of noise and poor tracking. Also another weirdness (very long shot) check to make sure the brakes didnt lock up for some wierd reason. nipper

Nothing good ever comes of getting German and Japanese parts together.

Read the recomendations on the Bondo, but i think 50 may be too cold.

Yes there is. You need one from a manual. nipper

This part aftermarket is fine. nipper

Torque bind. Do a search on it, as subaru racks dont fail this way. If the pump failed it would be equally hard in either direction at the slightest turn of steering wheel. nipper

Once my Legacy got hit while parked. To the untrained eye it looked like just a cracked grill. 1800 dollars later it was fixed. So dont hink you just have a scratched bumper skin. Also get yourself checked out.

That actually means something. Its a fault code for something, I just can't find what it is trying to say. I have seen this on another list someplace http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20103&highlight=flashing+ignition+light

This sounds more like torque bind to me. "the car cant turn on a dime", thats Torque bind. What makes you think it is a VSS sensor. If a VSS fails you get a CEL, loose AWD, but still have a working spedo. Do you have a flashing ATF temp light on startup? nipper