nipper

Pretty much it does. The more the cycles the more pressure applied to the clutch pack. Would be nice to see it work on something slick too. nipper

I didnt think there was points, thats why i was a bit surprised. I would guess the ignitor pickup inside the disty. Those things can drive you nuts trying to debug them. and of course not cheap. nipper

Sometimes thats the best way to measure things by comparison. Yes it has an open (which is bad). nipper

That is very interesting, what i've been wanting to see for ages. I would love to have seen how 1;2;3;R were affected. nipper

What he said.

Points, wow, i remeber those! How old is the condenser? Do you have a good strong spark? Is the carb dirty? nipper

Since when is running out of gas on a date a bad thing? How can you not have the trip meter hooked up? It works with the spedo, and the spedo is electronic. Also the spedo not working is probably why the cruise doesnt work. The fuel sender can be fixed by removing it and cleaning it with a hard pencil eraser. Also a tank or two of techron Gas additive will help. Subarus are notorius for innacurate gauges, but why not just fill up when you get to E. You do have a low gas light which should come on when there is about 2 gallons of gas left in the tank. nipper

Huh? Subarus since 1996 have had 105,000 mile intervals on the timing belt. This belt should not have snapped just for the sake of snapping. Maybe a failed cam bearing. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance1.html I would strongly suggest not to do a thing yet. I would contact subaru and firmly complain about the failed timing belt. I am suspect on the need for an engine. You may have a bent valve or two. Talk to subaru, and more specifically the local area rep. Good luck. nipper

Nevermind i said something about a clutch cable noticed its a 98 so ignore it. nipper

http://www.autoblog.com/2010/02/03/rally-america-sno-drift-2010-the-aftermath/#continued nipper

I am about to make a big order for Justy Parts (look its a sale! but im not sharing till i order mine ) Are there any parts in the 1989 Justy that are picky about who makes them? Particularly the O2 sensor. nipper

The 2000 is also heavier then the 1996, so thats not a fare comparison. If it didnt have more stuff in it you may not have bought it nipper

if the heater core is made of a reactive material with the coolant ( maybe the supplier changed the spec). It can have narrow passageways that allow it to clog easily. those would be design flaws.

t is a 106,000 mile belt, just 100,000 is easier to remeber. Also very few of us do things on the button. www.cars101.com for scheduals. Earlier 2.2s had 60,000 miles due to belt construction. As times marches on belts get better (and requirements set by law change). nipper

I have, as long as the tire fully inflates. nipper

Complete: Accessory drive belts Timing belt cam seals main seal re-seal oil pump water pump Thermostat (since you are there anyway and the system is drained) Tensioner Idlers PCV valve would be a good idea, or at least check it. nipper

Actually a timing belt by itself is not that bad. A timing belt with everything else can be a bit difficult for a newbe.

Sort of got it backwards. DOHC valves (or pistons) can hit each other and bend. SOHC can hit the pistons and bend. Usually you never loose more then a couple of valves.

ya know, i keep forgetting that unless the complain the car lurches. Go to a parking lot after if a auto and make some tight u turns how does it feel. Put in the FWD fuse and see if it gets better. If its a manual do the same thing after about 5-10 miles.

Wheel sensors are easy. Just physically inspect them. They need to look cylindrical with a nise 90 degree edge to them. Usually they get eroded and rounded. When this happens they dont pick up a proper signal. This is the way they usually fail, without failing. I'll see what i can find out about the other thing. nipper

Sometimes if you call them they can get them or they actually have them. Personally for high stress items I would go OE. Why are you replacing them anyway?

There is a compromise here. If everything looks new, you can change just the belt to have peace of mind, and skip everything else. However if you get leaks later on, then I would do the normal full timing belt job. Also replace your PCV valve, your seals will thank you.

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/printthread.php?s=&threadid=11627 http://allwheeldriveauto.com/what-is-that-wind-noise-in-my-subaru/ nipper

Those two crazy kids never did get along. nipper

Timing belts live a very protected life. They are quite sheltered and can hold thier markings so they look like new. When in doubt replace things. How does the seals look, I know you cant really see them, but any sighn of oil leaks? Also the cars history may come up on https://www.subaru.com/my-subaru/index.html nipper