nipper

Do a search on Head Gaskets it will be explained. Just ive explained it a few too many times this week, and am tired of retyping I ned to make a memo with that and keep it on my puter. This is only for specific gaskets.

Yes. Have a machine shop check them for flatness. They will take a minimal slice to clean them up (surface finish is importnat to sealing, just cant scrape them anymore). If there is any runout the shop will take care of that too. nipper

Headgaskets from Subaru otherwise don't do the job. Spark plug bucket seals should be from subaru. May as well change plugs while your at it, and a new pcv valve. the very first thing you do after you remove the radiator is to flush it out. Oil + old antifreeze + air = glue. Plug wires? The timing belt kit looks good, I wonder where he is sourcing the parts from. I dont trust ebay parts for criritcal stuff. nipper

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106709 FWD Auto (Remeber i still have a nerve damage .. I can always upgrade later). I gave up on finding a 4wd. It's not home yet, as it has a safe warm garage for winter. I did lots of research and surprsingly if you cut the maint intervals in half they will go over 100K (including the autos) if you understand the car.

They MAY hit each other. Sometimes you get lucky. Bottom end will be fine, top end may need work. A snapped belt is actually better then a jumped belt. When the belt snaps everything stops. Just throw a belt on it and take a compression test as a starting point. Stranger things have happened. nipper

One goes to thecrankcase one comes from the valve covers. Im guessing that he isnt stalling its from the valve covers. nipper

Heheh 2.89 on this island But I also bought a Justy to work around that. nipper

Time is miles. 1 month = 1000 miles per subaru. I would change it. It's not his wallet that takes the hit if it jumps. ALso inspect your tires for dryrot if they are original. Alos change all your fluids for the same reason. nipper

If someone doesnt chime in, trace it back to its source and take a pic, then I can tell you. Otherwise wait till the sun comes up and I'll look on mine. nipper

In your case I would skip the Waterpump idler and tensioner as they are most likely good as long as you do the next belt sooner then 126,000 miles. I would still replace the cam and main seals and reseal the oil pump. nipper

An annoying CEL that wont go away and I can't reset, but on some days I can. My EGR works. I have had a slight drop in MPG but it is winter so im not to worried. nipper

Anytime someone says "recirculatory" it means EGR valve. Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve. And it does have a solenoid that is pricey (i need one) but not that pricey. nipper

At 200K your looking for a lower mileage engine. I wouldnt turbocharge an engine with 200K unless you are replacing the rings and bearings. Go with a 2.2 a turbo. It can handle being blown much better. Go with what Eric said. nipper

Dollar wise penny foolish. The best way to solve this issue is replacing the front O2 sensor. Yes you can use a cheap antifolwer, but that is only a fix by moving the O2 out of the exhaust stream. You asked if tha antifowler makes the light goes out, and by your followup it sounds like this may be the route you will take due to the high cost (compared to a fowler) of an OE O2 sensor. Since no one has really checked to see how this affects gas mileage performance (which your running a little rough can be caused by a bad O2 sensor) nor catalyitc converter life (which is not a cheap part), i do not recomend it for a front O2 sensor. A shop may try to sell you a cat (the lazy-shops diagnostics). nipper

How many miles. Do a search on Oxygen Sensor, but odds are thats what it is. nipper

Look at the simple first, exhaust hangers. nipper

If it is cheap enough, just buy it and pull the codes. It can be an EGR issue, or a Evap issue (gas smell). Fuel smell can be as simple as the hoses to the FI leaking. Only thing that costs that much to fix is a cat. nipper

From expierience these are best OE Head gaskets (2.2 and 2.5) T-stat Ignition cables Spark Plug bucket Gromits Front O2 Sensor nipper

Timing belt Water Pump cam Seals Main Seal front re-seal the oil pump Tensioner Idler Accessory drive belts Get an OE t-stat just because. Also replace the rad cap since it is old. Tuneup Stock plugs Factory wires Fuel filter Air Filter PCV Valve OE wires Then your good for another 106K Before you start, wash down the bottom of the engine and trace your leaks. If you need vlave cover gaskets they should be OE alone with spark plug bucket gromits.

Headgaskets should be OE, everything else should be a name brand. Felpro has lets say 20 engineers to cover every gasket they make for every car ( I worked for a major auto parts mfg and we only had 5 for our entire product line). Subaru being OE will either asign an engineer or a group of engineers to evaluate a high cost part to see why it is failing. Aftermarket will not, since they usually see engines at the end of thier lives. OE will constantly evaluate untill they solve the problem. Aftermarket will sit on the stock. Once a problem is solved, OE will put out a notice that all A Hg's are now superceeded by Revision H HG. They will tell all dealers to remove the old design and return them or destroy them. An aftermarket supplier will rarely if ever do that, and whoever has them on thier shelves will run down the inventory untill they have to order H. that may mean going through A B C D etc. Thats why you buy OE. Also the deeper in the engine and the nore critical the part, thje more risky and foolish it is to rely on a cheap part. nipper

Like i said 185 +/- 5psi is normal. sheesh no one listens. And the PROPER WAY of doing a compression test is you do ALL the cylinders, remove ALL the plugs and crank with a fully charged or boosted battery. You do one test dry, then a second test is done after squirting some oil in the cylinders. This is called a wet and dry test.They did an improper compression test. I also doubt they really checked the timing marks. This dealer was useless. Also this is something any decent shop could have checked. nipper

OE has a tighter spec they must meet, since if the part is bad they get hit with a recall. Bosch really could care less as an aftermarket part. nipper And as stated time will tell.

Sheesh at 191,000 miles i put a brand new engine in mine. If the timing belt jumps usually a pair of cylinders will have high pressure (DOHC) or will have low. 170 actually is a bit on the low side, as normal is the 180-190 range. The dealer woosed out on the compression test, as i am sure they didnt charge you for 3 cyl time, they charged you for 4. If the wires looked old and the customer was showing a missfire, they should have thrown a set of wires on it to see if that solved it. I still dont like this shop. nipper

Does it do this on a dead straight road? Are your tires cupped? Check for heat shiled issues. This is a noise of harmonics. Longshot check your main pulley. nipper

If there is no leaking at the Rack Boots, then the rack is fine. Thats how sooby racks go bad. Another general symptom for all racks is binding when the car is cold, then feels better as the car warms up. It may be that your pump is tired. They are available in junkyards and are plentiful (ie cheap). If the failure is non pulsing, then look at the pump. if it is pulsing/binding it may be the universal joint in the column under the hood. nipper