nipper

AWD tanks have a hump in them to allow the drivesahft to operate. The dual sender tanks also have a siphon type pump that transfers fuel from one side of the tank to the other. The Senders are in series. The total resistance is split between the two of them. A 2wd tank does not have this dirveshaft issue so only one sender. The fuel level gauge really does not care what is hooked up in the rear of the car, otherwise people would be specifying (as you pointed it out) a 2wd or awd dash. nipper PS we all know sooby gas gauges are more for decoration anyway

hehehehehe

A grasshopper... 1- It is the lifetime of the 1st part, not the lifetime of the car. 2- Why do the same job over many times when you can do it just once and get it right the first time. 3- They never fail in your driveway the 2nd time. i went through 4 alt in one year because they were poorly rebuilt (including autozone). Rebuilt in aftermarket means replacing the part that is bad not, not replacing all the replacable parts. OE rebuilds replace all the parts that can wear out. Subaru had it for 79.00 on sale, not going to say how much the others cost.

Personally I would always source stuff from subaru first (as they can sometimes be cheaper). I have gotten burned on aftermarket parts and roos. I agree battery is cooked too. Inspect the battery cables for any sign of overheating. nipper

It is very simple. Look at a haynes manual, but it is very straight forward. Use line wrenches for the brake lines. No need to mess with the ABS and it is all startight forward to bleed.

Master cylinder is bad. Pressure is bypassing the seals so your pedal sinks. Fix it asap.

I am assuming we are talking 2.5's as I have a diff opinion on 2.2's. No matter what you do, after an overheat an oil change is very important. Before you really dig into taking anything apart, remove the radiator and flush it immediatly. If you leze it exposed to air, with antifreeze, a smattering of oil and goo from combustion, it will all turn to glue and clog the radiator. Just give it a good rinse.

There is a reason that you need a mgic black box when you rent a trailer. Cars with 2 bulb systems need some electrical wizardry to convert them to a 1 bulb dual filamint system. You are back feeding voltage someplace in the system, possibly to the taillights causing a short. It could be your backfeeding to other places. Put them back to the way they were as this, as simple as it sounded at the time, is more complicated then you give it credit for.

A Well maintained engine will have the original cross hatching. It means it had regular oil changes, never overheated, and no mechanical damage. Opposed engines are good at lasting since the opposed forces all cancle eachother out. The rings however 200K is 200K on thin peices of metal going through a little bit of hell everytime there is a boom. On a subaru I wouldnt be afraid of a 100K engine.

A vacume gauge would help too.

I have a 3" lift kit.

I wouldnt do either. There are plenty of lower mileage engines out there. You can take a chance, as there is always one or two that say it doesnt matter, but if you want to keep the car for any length of time I would not do it. For the amount of work that is about to go into this, you can do an engine R and R and timing belt and seals and plugs, which all would be done with the HG job anyway. Now if all you can find are engines that avg around the same mileage used I would go with one of those. If you decide to go with the HG, you should also get a valve job. This job skipping any step will come back and bite you in the tuchus.

I was going to say air cleaner box

He wnats your money pr doesnt want your business

So right away I am going to tell you let a machine shop decide if they need it or not. I would NEVER skip this step, as it is not only warpage but surface finish. You dont use a level from home depot, you need a high quality steel straight edge and some feeler gauges to do it at home. Most who skip this step have to do it all over again in a short time. At over 200K Personally I think it is foolish to do HG's without a compression test first. Even then I wouldnt do it. Odds are the restored compression with well worn rings will cause blowby and oil burning. My cutoff for sooby engines is 160K.

can you take a wider pic please so I can find it on the FSM

I know someone in Canada who restored one. It is his baby.

So the original were dual filament? General rule of thumb is to replace things one at a time. Were you blowing fuses before hand? Why did you suspect the fronts and not the rears?

Like the entire car that would be bad. The links are there for a reason, as you saw.

And my lowly Justy .....

Does it do the vibration in neutral?

IMMEDIATLY check the main pulley/vibration damper. It sounds like the engine was apart before this. This is a not-so-uncommon error in assembly where main pulley is not torqued high enough. Double cjeck that first and we will go from there. Inspect the pully for seperation also.

thats an oil chnage ever 7.5 months, and for cars that spent a lot of time sitting i would suggest every 5 months. Low mileage can kill a cars as fast if not faster then high mileage if not properly taken care of. This doesnt happne just because you started the car, this had been developing for some time.

So this car got once a year oil changes? When owining a car you go by mileage or the calander, whichever is shorter. How many miles on this car?

The only way is to really do it yourself, and even then you may not get it all. By the nature of the glass, it is made to break into a million tiny peices. There are many places for glass to hide. Wht you cant see today you may see tomorrow. It is only glass and a car, it could have been worse. As long as the glass doesnt rattle I would live with it (and have).