nipper

In all i do not remember if they are bolts or screws

I did this. Lay down and look up at the fog light .There are two screws that hold the bracket on the car. They will put up a fight. The other way is the three screws that fasten the light to the bracket, but they can be a challange to put back on with the light fastened to the car.

Why does everyone blame the poor innocint fuel pump. Next time it happens remove the gas cap and see if the car starts. If not you need to put a fuel pressure gauge on the system. nipper

I had this, it is the oil pump seal. Very bad fix it as it can pump all the oil out very fast. You dont say the miles but do everything while you are in there. nipper

Lysol in the air intake under the hood. I have this smell every spring and it kills it. nipper

If you are doing it at home, i suggest doing both sides as they are equally worn. When mine were done we used a big hammer and brute force.

Inner tierods are almost impossible to see wear on, and your tests are all wrong anyway You need to have someone turn the steering wheel while watching the tie rods. Balljoint jack up the car and use a leverage arm. Put it so that it pots upper force on the tire and watch the ball joints for play. You are due for struts. As struts age you get used to them so they feel fine. Mine did too untill i took a highspeed gentleish curve on a highway. In the right the car felt fine. In the left the car was scary. The car felt fine at low speeds (this was high speed, not er um 55). Sounds travel. The paly is normal depending upon how much there is. Inner CV;s make vibrations, outers make noise. What happens when you go from drive to reverse or visa versa.

He said he was doing as per the FSM Evacuating & Charging" 3) The charging procedure described in this section begins by charging liquid refrigerant into the high pressure side of the system with the engine OFF. The procedure is completed by charging refrigerant VAPOR into the low pressure side of the system with the engine running.

You are using a silly 1 lb can from the store. The dealer useses a can that is the size and stronger then a propane tank. No dealer uses 1 b cans. You want to blow your hand off go right ahead. If they do use a 1lb can it is always on the low side. Every other instructions you will find on the net will tellyou IT IS DANGEROUS. Every site, INCLUDING (usually) the can will tell you not to connect to the high side. Just because the manual syas X it is NOT safe to assume the dealer is using the same equipment. They use a very expensive recycling machine that evacacutes refregeriant, cleans it, filters it then pressurizes it in a propane size tank. I have an AC license. You want to blow up the can go right ahead, you have been warned.

WTF Are you sure you read that right? You never ever never ever add anything to the system on the high side. This is very dangerous. You can blow up the can or worse. Coolant is always added to the low side. http://www.aa1car.com/library/ac_recharging.htm

yes

The parts to replace the entire assembly are under 30.oo so just easier to get the new parts

Not random. The aerodynamics on the rear of the captures all the road salt and it sits there.

Seafoam. If you like your neighbors go somewhere unpopulated to do it. If you hate them point your tailpipe at them.

I was a litttle surprised as to the size of the hole I had to grind out to get to bare metal. I used a dremel tool and used duplicolor rust conversion spray. My body filler work aint pretty, but the sticker helps hide a lot of sins.

Did you clean the pin? I hope you used brake lube. Most likely you used way too much grease and the pin cavity is now full of grease. You push the pin in and there is air traped. You push hard, you compress the air, and it acts like a spring.

I just posted the test. A bad MC can damage the diaphram on a the PBB. A PBB can be a goofy failure. A test for a bad MC is stand on the brake pedal with all your weight and see if the pedal creeps to the floor. Now for other things to look for. An internally failed brake line A weeping brake caliper Glazed brake rotors Glazed pads frozen calipers nipper

Master cylinder failure and brake booster failer almost have the same symptoms. How to test a PBB With the car off pump the brakes 10 times. Press brake pedal Start car Brake pedal should move towards the floor. If it does not the PBB is bad.

Blus Rust

heheh love the color, but 6 college students can do that, or four to remove the engine (dont ask how i know)

I was in Mein-lets rip you off-ikie last month. They get 100.00 per hour (typical around here) and 110.00! to scan and clear codes. For 5 freaking minutes of work. Want to talk about a ripoff.

O2 sensors can get tired without throwing a code. How old is the timing belt (time and mileage))? Do a real tuneup and replace the pcv valve. Check tire condition and look for a stubborn brake slider. Check that the parking brake is not draging (especially after sitting). What exactly is poor gas mileage and what kind of driving do you do?

Isnt that just a wee bit overkill for an angine that is held in by four bolts and removed with a floor jack

Ive seen this many times. Check the simple first (the car is old enough) a bad radiator cap. Check the AC system to make sure it has the proper pressures. Next inspect the radiator for missing fins. If all those are OK check for a clogged radiator. This is the most likely issue if the radiator was not flushed at the time of the conversion. I am going to assume there was a HG issue. The oil+antifreeze+air can make a glue that clogs everything in the radiator. Don't go so much by mileage, go buy age.

I used Autozone house brand Ceramics mid range without an issue for 2 years now.