nipper

Did you clean the pin? I hope you used brake lube. Most likely you used way too much grease and the pin cavity is now full of grease. You push the pin in and there is air traped. You push hard, you compress the air, and it acts like a spring.

I just posted the test. A bad MC can damage the diaphram on a the PBB. A PBB can be a goofy failure. A test for a bad MC is stand on the brake pedal with all your weight and see if the pedal creeps to the floor. Now for other things to look for. An internally failed brake line A weeping brake caliper Glazed brake rotors Glazed pads frozen calipers nipper

Master cylinder failure and brake booster failer almost have the same symptoms. How to test a PBB With the car off pump the brakes 10 times. Press brake pedal Start car Brake pedal should move towards the floor. If it does not the PBB is bad.

Blus Rust

heheh love the color, but 6 college students can do that, or four to remove the engine (dont ask how i know)

I was in Mein-lets rip you off-ikie last month. They get 100.00 per hour (typical around here) and 110.00! to scan and clear codes. For 5 freaking minutes of work. Want to talk about a ripoff.

O2 sensors can get tired without throwing a code. How old is the timing belt (time and mileage))? Do a real tuneup and replace the pcv valve. Check tire condition and look for a stubborn brake slider. Check that the parking brake is not draging (especially after sitting). What exactly is poor gas mileage and what kind of driving do you do?

Isnt that just a wee bit overkill for an angine that is held in by four bolts and removed with a floor jack

Ive seen this many times. Check the simple first (the car is old enough) a bad radiator cap. Check the AC system to make sure it has the proper pressures. Next inspect the radiator for missing fins. If all those are OK check for a clogged radiator. This is the most likely issue if the radiator was not flushed at the time of the conversion. I am going to assume there was a HG issue. The oil+antifreeze+air can make a glue that clogs everything in the radiator. Don't go so much by mileage, go buy age.

I used Autozone house brand Ceramics mid range without an issue for 2 years now.

And here i was licking ...... oh never mind, seemed to work for cats. I use almost any dishwashing detergent and a red scotch brite pad. The pad isnt hard on the skin, and gets everything out excpet fingernails. Sadly i have lost some masculinity and started wearing latex gloves when working on the car. Work clothes, they are supposed to get dirty. i use taorn jeans to rok on the car. For stains on other clothes, let the detergant pre-soak, then use a stiff dish brush (synthetic) and rub it in.

Yes and Yes.

Subarus generally do not like lighter flywheels. They need the extra mass to store energy for smother take-offs at low rpm. They also help keeping the engine smoother between cylinder firings. The more cylinders the lighter you can go with a flywheel. $'s are not to happy about it if you are concerned about driveability and not stop-light racing.

What he said.

That is exactly what i did. nipper

Well sort of. If the car has lots of miles (usually over a 100k on a sooby, but they can last to 180K), the MPG has taken a dump, or the light comes one and off over time, it is most likely the front sensor. The rear sensor just monitors the Cat output and will usually outlive the front one. It wont have an effect on performance. Of course you can bench test them.

Vw vanagon engine, a low profile in-line diesel, was never a reliable engine. I think avw diesel, and early model, has been fit to sooby's before. I wonder if the transmission can handle the torque from a diesel. The small engine from a Brat shold be fairly good on gas mileage. nipper

I take the rust down to the metal if possible. I talked to a paint supplier that deal with custom mixes for any car. They give out great advice http://www.paintscratch.com/ They agreed that the Dupli-color rust converter is an excelant product. I take it down as far as i can. I spray three coats as per instructions, and let it sit for 24 hours before I apply any bondo. When Blu had his rust i gournd down all the rust and left a good size hole. I use the Rust converter, filled the hole, then painted with three cots of Dupli-color primer, wet sand, 4 coats of paint with wet sanding, then 2 coats of top coat, with wet sanding. Blu was easy His hole was under the vinyl body tape so I did not have to paint aside from primer. On the Justy i look for natural body panel breaks to sand and paint to. nipper nipper

I got the 89 Justy CVT started to move it around in the driveway. This car has stayed park for many years. I can hear the brushes wining from the clutch contacts. My question is, with a CVT (a nomal electric motor I would just wait and see) is this something to worry about? Should i just wait it out, or let it run for a while then replace the brushes? nipper

Or live someplace where everything is downhill. nipper

You only replaced 2?

i try

It may not exist. It can be on the clutch fork or the clutch pedal. it is just used to take up slack in the mechanisims.

You need a air compressor. I have seen people use a portable air tank with mixed results. nipper

Throwout bearing does NOt make noise with the clutch depressed, it only makes noise with the clutch out. Basically it is rattling around inside the tranny, and get anything rattling around fast enough it will make a whiring noise. If you can hear it with the pedal down it is pretty far gone. Even a tranny input shaft wont make noise at that point. It is the clutch. nipper