nipper

Rehung the exhaust pipe. Installed the muffler. Realized there is a broken front exhaust mount which doesnt matter since it is no longer made. Drained the worst smelling old fuel i have ever smelled in my life. Thankfully it all siphoned it out on its oen. 21/2 gallons of this syrupy stinky fuel. Repaired the fuel pump harness as for some reason it was cut and connected with wire nuts.

I think my justy has that.

But that is the true test of being an expert on a manual. Back in college it was a cell phone, a cup of coffe, and a "hand rolled" cigerette, and this was in a VW beetle that did not have blutooth or cup holders

Auto is much more superior for towing. As long as you have a cooler and a temp gauge fluid is not an issue. It does have to be changed more often but so will brakes etc. Also an auto actually makes more torque then a manual. the torque converter has a multiplier of 2.5 at takeoff then a manual. With a manual when towing you should not be in top gear on either auto or manual. Towing with a manual you will be very very hard on the clutch. Very few if any auto mfg's recomend towing with a manual. manuals can also get torque bind too.

Clean the terminals and make sure they are tight. Check the voltage with the battery disconnected and watch for a drop. Reconnect the battery and start the car. With everything on at 1800 RPM you should get 13.5 to 14 volts. If you do not then it is your alt. Dont let autozone or anyone test it as they do not always do it right.

If you can shift it manually and all the gears work, it is sticky valves. Change the fluid.

Try http://www.etrailer.com

Warped Rotors.

You have to change the bucket gromit and the valve cover gasket (subaru OE). Not fixing it will ruin the ignition wires.

Solve the leak first. I would replace that O ring where the missing bolt is (do not hurt yourself on the refigerant). Then replace the bolt that is missing. Get a gauge set and fill up the system and you should be golden

Let me ask the first question. What kind of driving do you do and what type do you plan on doing?

I have been there. It is not the O ring but the stich hnadle itself. It took me a week to get it out. I used channel locks, working it a little bit at a time. It is a real fitch to do. Once you get it out take fine sandpaper to the plastic and see if you get it any better. nipper

Usually you look for a common denominator since mulitple codes can be a daisy chain. Did you use a Subaru O2 sensor? replace the knock sensor Fuel level sensor high is either shorted or open (i forget which) this is easy to test, just test the sensors out of the car so they can be inspected. Lets see what happens after that.

Outer tie rod ends, ordering rear rotors (calipers stuck)

I got 1100 miles out of mine before things went boom With the mileage he is talking about I wouldnt be shocked about the piston slap. Sometimes it can be imporved by chaining the grade of oil.

Rod knock is really easy. Yank the spark plug wire to one cylinder at a time. The cylinder with the bad rod should change pitch. Rod knock actually gets louder as engine oil thins out. A knock at startup is piston slap, ignore it and life goes on.

The car does not do it cold because the fluid is thicker when cold. As it heats up it gets thinner and looses pressure. Also as the coil for the solenoid heats up, resistance increases in the solenoid. If the coil is weak it will start to fail. Simple electric theory. As temp increases so does resistance. Add that to thinner oil you have an unresponsive circuit.

I have 270K on Blu. the real question is how much rust is too much, as that can not be fixed. If you want do a compression test wet and dry and that will tell you the important things, or do a quick vacume gauge test. How little mileage vs age is a better question. Low mileage can be more harmful to an old car then high mileage. For a car to hit high mileage it had to be well maintaned. nipper

i suck at painting, i really do. The Justy's tailgate (lower half) is painted. It does almost match the rest of that paint (being anal I can see it but doubt anyone else can). The clearcoat I have no Idea if that is right. It is not smooth to the touch, but is no worse then the rest of the car. i am hoping this polishes out as they said let it rest for three days. Now i am afraid to touch the orange peel on the roof.

Paying less then the bluebook means that the dealer was tyring to get rid of the car. Sit down with a lawyer and see what he says. Sometimes for the price out at a bar you can get a legal letter sent to the dealer and see if that stirs things up.

Finished: Repainted front grill Treated all surface rust Cleaned painted front and rear bumpers Replaced battery (not planned) Re-sealed valve cover Replaced 2 wheel cylinders Replaced 2 brake calipers Replaced Frt Brake Pads Replaced Rear Brake Pads Replaced all brake Hardware Installed Engine oil cooler Installed external Oil Filter Painted fan shroud Painted radiator Mounted and wired Oil press Oil temp and Battery volt gauge Changed oil Rebuilt exhaust system Repaired hatch lock Repaired (hopefully) left rear wheel well rust Lubricated all moving and sliding parts. Installed right side mirror and painted mirror Repacked wheel bearings Replaced front wipper motor Yet to be done: Replace Alt Belt Replace Timing Belt Replace Main Crank Seal Paint tailgate and reassemble Paint wheel well repair Remount fuel pump Replace PCV valve Bleed brakes Repaint roof Diagnose carb issue (rebuild or replace) Strip prime paint roof Paint Body trim (wasnt going to until i realized how bad they look against the painted bumpers) Replace reflective tape on bumpers and body trim Possibly repaint all the black trim parts in the car (yes that the bipolar virgo thing kicking in) Replace body decals New radio and speakerd maybe Outsource: Need 1 tire Call a pull a dent place to have the dents removed. Scary noise: Tick at front of transmission which could be the pilot bearing (remove engine), Transmission input bearing (remove engine), or the powder in the electric clutch just lumped together from sitting. That noise wasnt there when i bought the car so i am going with the last one. i was terrified that the car was almost done, but seeing it all listed here it is about 50% of the way there

Well it is more of a bushing then a bearing. remove the plastic trim from the steering column and see if you can narrow it down to the shaft or the clock spring.

This has NOTHING to do with overheating, period. As I said before, the 16 blinks indicates that there was an electrical fault the last time the car was operated. If the cars trnsmission was overheating the light would come on when hott, and go off when cool, and that would be it. at 13 years old the AWD units do get tired. You can do this in your driveway if you want, there is a lot of information here on the process. Skipping the clutch replacement is like just chainging only the timing belt. It will work but eventually you will be doing the job all over again.

Just to back up a bit, has anyone done a leak down or pressure test on the cooling system yet?

Also this should be reported to the NHTSA as a possible fire hazard.