nipper

Oops 1997 outback As I said, there is no adjustment left. I am replacing the rear discs, so I will see if I have adjustment at that end. But at 270K I wouldnt be surprised if it is tired.

(or that I can see) ...... Parking brake cable. Mine is completly stretched out. There is no more adjustment left. Has anyone replaced these cables (which I imagine are not cheap) before. I am always leery of when a manual has only 5 steps for such a long part.

Ah yes, this is how transmission shops sell rebuilt trannies. "see this clutch material" It is normal wear and some gunk mixed in. Thats why you are chainging the fluid

The auto is geared taller because the torque converter multiplies the torque at a 2.5 ratio, thats how torque converters work. the manual is a 50/50 split, where the automatic is a 10/90 variable to 50/50. That means you can 25/75 30/70or anything inbetween. The 2.5 is better at climbing then the 2.2 4eat. I drive in D3 if there are a lot of hills to keep the car from hunting for a gear (stupid subaru tcu program). For towing, never use 5th gear or D4 as that stresses the engine too much.

I remember but can not find now something about bad chain guides. This is not an impossible job to do, and may be easier to set the timing then a belt. That said, there are literally 105 bolts to hold on the cover. There may be a gasket I dont know. If you keep track of what bolt cam from where it is fairly straight forward. I bet a guide is worn, and these guides are like rubbing blocks. http://www.endwrench.com/current/summer03/H-4.pdf Forget what I said about straight forward. It is also not a cheap job to do. I would ask an area service rep about it.

Told ya so

Put the car in the parts for sale section. Man i really have to stop practicing my touch typing. The vultures will circle quickly.

Put it in thr psrtd drcyion snd thr vultures will start circling. BTW how are the seats?

Was the barke light on? If it was im going with the alt. Turn everything on. Rev and hold engine at 1800 RPM Read voltage at battery.

Whenever you see the word "Duty Solenoid" it mean that is cycles on and off many times a minute. They are not designed to be constantly powered. Now some people have not had any issues, but let the buyer beware.

Rehung the exhaust pipe. Installed the muffler. Realized there is a broken front exhaust mount which doesnt matter since it is no longer made. Drained the worst smelling old fuel i have ever smelled in my life. Thankfully it all siphoned it out on its oen. 21/2 gallons of this syrupy stinky fuel. Repaired the fuel pump harness as for some reason it was cut and connected with wire nuts.

I think my justy has that.

But that is the true test of being an expert on a manual. Back in college it was a cell phone, a cup of coffe, and a "hand rolled" cigerette, and this was in a VW beetle that did not have blutooth or cup holders

Auto is much more superior for towing. As long as you have a cooler and a temp gauge fluid is not an issue. It does have to be changed more often but so will brakes etc. Also an auto actually makes more torque then a manual. the torque converter has a multiplier of 2.5 at takeoff then a manual. With a manual when towing you should not be in top gear on either auto or manual. Towing with a manual you will be very very hard on the clutch. Very few if any auto mfg's recomend towing with a manual. manuals can also get torque bind too.

Clean the terminals and make sure they are tight. Check the voltage with the battery disconnected and watch for a drop. Reconnect the battery and start the car. With everything on at 1800 RPM you should get 13.5 to 14 volts. If you do not then it is your alt. Dont let autozone or anyone test it as they do not always do it right.

If you can shift it manually and all the gears work, it is sticky valves. Change the fluid.

Try http://www.etrailer.com

Warped Rotors.

You have to change the bucket gromit and the valve cover gasket (subaru OE). Not fixing it will ruin the ignition wires.

Solve the leak first. I would replace that O ring where the missing bolt is (do not hurt yourself on the refigerant). Then replace the bolt that is missing. Get a gauge set and fill up the system and you should be golden

Let me ask the first question. What kind of driving do you do and what type do you plan on doing?

I have been there. It is not the O ring but the stich hnadle itself. It took me a week to get it out. I used channel locks, working it a little bit at a time. It is a real fitch to do. Once you get it out take fine sandpaper to the plastic and see if you get it any better. nipper

Usually you look for a common denominator since mulitple codes can be a daisy chain. Did you use a Subaru O2 sensor? replace the knock sensor Fuel level sensor high is either shorted or open (i forget which) this is easy to test, just test the sensors out of the car so they can be inspected. Lets see what happens after that.

Outer tie rod ends, ordering rear rotors (calipers stuck)

I got 1100 miles out of mine before things went boom With the mileage he is talking about I wouldnt be shocked about the piston slap. Sometimes it can be imporved by chaining the grade of oil.