nipper

I need a basic so I can look it up in the FSM, what year and how many miles.

FOm Peter pan I'm flying (Flying, flying, flying) Look at me way up high, Suddenly here am I I'm flying. I'm flying (Flying, flying, flying) I can soar I can weave and what's more I'm not even trying High up, and as light as I can be. I must be a sight lovely to see. http://www.autoblog.com/2010/10/28/video-faa-certifies-missionarys-subaru-powered-flying-car/ Or maybe Chitty Chitty Bang Bang fits better?

So did I.

Thats because you only have two bolts. This causes a vacume leak. You can get the bolt in that is closest to the radiator. A mechanics trick - Use a peice of thickl paper or painters tape in the socket, gooey side to the socket. Jam the bolt in the socket, making sure you can get your scket off the bolt. The bolt does not have to be in there tightly. This will hold the bolt in untill you get it in the hole.

Hehehe I guess everyone gives up in that bolt.

Hayes will cover it.

Does the ATF light flash on startup?

Newwer cars have many computers with a very low draw;You may not have all these but here is an example: A body computer (controls everything) The ECU - (s)ubaru The TCU - S The HVAC for auto climate control - S Radio Memory - S Seat memory Auto dimming mirror with either a compass (s) Digital dash - S Digital clock Thats all I can thnk of right now. It is not unusual for the battery to run down parked. Some cars with uber thingies can kill a battery in 4-6 months Some 4-5 months, no matter how good the battery is. It is not unusal for Airport parking garages to have a portable Jumpstart (at a cost) in long term parking. Also You have to watch the battery charge in heavy stop and go, or even stoped when running everything. The Alt doesnt barely keeps up below 1800 RPM. I have seen many expensive cars on the side of the road in stopped traffic jams as they have run down the battery, It is always good to rev the engine to 2000 rpm in stopped traffic (like a road closure). You have running in summer or winter in a subaru TCU ECU Radio (maybe an amp) Fuel Injectors Spark Plugs Gauges A/c compressor Blower motor Maybe wipers Maybe deforster Maybe heated mirrors Mabe heated seats Dimming mirror fuel pump Whatever is plugged into the car. That is quite a load for just 650 RPM.

Nice try but the movement is so little that does not apply. It is just enough to make a clank or a thud. It can also stress the engine mounts and flex the coolant lines

Get a small tirckle charger. it does not have to be very big, almost the kind they use for a motorcycle. IT will keep up with the draw from the computers.

I would start with the bulbs and the contacts. Make gure they are all good and all clean. Swap bulbs from one side to the other and see if it moves. Then I would look at the charginig system

One thing we havent suggested yet. I would look into getting an oil analysis once every 3-4 months for a year. This would really help with the decision making process. I have heard from other sources on collector cars or cars that don't see winter that twice a year is best.

NO.The tarnny mount can be the cause of the noise and the feeling of the shock. It really is NOT a good thing not to replace something that is known to be broken when it is hampering the diagnostic process. A tranny mount will NOT tranfer power faste, it will keep the driveline straight,and oh, make it stop clunking or reduce it. i know it did mine.

Blu as 270,000 miles on him and a 2nd engine. Over the past year his idle has been odd for the last year, I thought he needed plugs. His gas mileage was down in the 18 mpg range for city driving. I blamed that on stop signs popping up everywhere. I put plug on my Honeydo list. Finally the idle would not come down from 1000 rpm. I cleaned it and I killed it. I ordered a used tested one off ebay. I removed and noticed someone left a bolt off, That told me it had been replaced before. I also learned why that one bolt was missing. Since he ran fine missing that bolt, I did not bother either (after using every "mechanics terminology" i knew). Blu's idle was silky smooth. I don't think it has been that smooth since I owned him. The surprise. My city MPG went up 20% (and my driving habits have not changed). My highway driving is now hitting the 27-28-29 he used to hit. Just something else to look at with a high mileage sooby that has a intermittently rough idle, lower MPG, and no codes. nipper

This isnt a part that should be bought used. N one is going to seel just this part. It can be fun to pull it yourself though as it is always nicer to learn (read screw up) a car in junkyard

Just lurking till the codes show up

i say an evap issue. Also when it happens loosen the fuel cap and see if it goes away. is it a random misfire? Another possability is the Fuel pressure Regulator or fuel pump.

Yes thats reasonable. Yes it is as easy to replace as any tranny. Yes you have to remove the axles. And yes for all arguments sake they are one unit. The things of wierdness in those years. Make sure the splines are the same amount. Alos make sure the frt and rear diff ratios are the same.

Sometimes the test connectors are taped to the harness and very hard to find.

The diff is cooked.

7 months or 7500 miles is the spec. I would use synthetic oil and change it every 5 months. Change the PCV valve once a year as it can get bummed up with such short little mileage. On a subaru 1 month is equal to 1000 miles for ALL parts and fluids, including timing belts. Check tires for dryrot too.

What are the engine RPM's. Is the AC off. What does it do in neutral? Is the fluid clean and full? I would change the fluid and see what happens.

How about the shifting resistor under the battery? It is there to reduce shift shock. Also check your tranny mount. SUnarus shift hard, but usually it is the up shift not the down shift.

Also do wet and dry numbers

FOR THE LOVE OF GOD NO! Legend has it that the one with the chrome vale covers is powered by the Illudium Q-36 Explosive Space Modulator and rotating the bolts 360 degrees repeatedly will destroy the earth!