nipper

NO.The tarnny mount can be the cause of the noise and the feeling of the shock. It really is NOT a good thing not to replace something that is known to be broken when it is hampering the diagnostic process. A tranny mount will NOT tranfer power faste, it will keep the driveline straight,and oh, make it stop clunking or reduce it. i know it did mine.

Blu as 270,000 miles on him and a 2nd engine. Over the past year his idle has been odd for the last year, I thought he needed plugs. His gas mileage was down in the 18 mpg range for city driving. I blamed that on stop signs popping up everywhere. I put plug on my Honeydo list. Finally the idle would not come down from 1000 rpm. I cleaned it and I killed it. I ordered a used tested one off ebay. I removed and noticed someone left a bolt off, That told me it had been replaced before. I also learned why that one bolt was missing. Since he ran fine missing that bolt, I did not bother either (after using every "mechanics terminology" i knew). Blu's idle was silky smooth. I don't think it has been that smooth since I owned him. The surprise. My city MPG went up 20% (and my driving habits have not changed). My highway driving is now hitting the 27-28-29 he used to hit. Just something else to look at with a high mileage sooby that has a intermittently rough idle, lower MPG, and no codes. nipper

This isnt a part that should be bought used. N one is going to seel just this part. It can be fun to pull it yourself though as it is always nicer to learn (read screw up) a car in junkyard

Just lurking till the codes show up

i say an evap issue. Also when it happens loosen the fuel cap and see if it goes away. is it a random misfire? Another possability is the Fuel pressure Regulator or fuel pump.

Yes thats reasonable. Yes it is as easy to replace as any tranny. Yes you have to remove the axles. And yes for all arguments sake they are one unit. The things of wierdness in those years. Make sure the splines are the same amount. Alos make sure the frt and rear diff ratios are the same.

Sometimes the test connectors are taped to the harness and very hard to find.

The diff is cooked.

7 months or 7500 miles is the spec. I would use synthetic oil and change it every 5 months. Change the PCV valve once a year as it can get bummed up with such short little mileage. On a subaru 1 month is equal to 1000 miles for ALL parts and fluids, including timing belts. Check tires for dryrot too.

What are the engine RPM's. Is the AC off. What does it do in neutral? Is the fluid clean and full? I would change the fluid and see what happens.

How about the shifting resistor under the battery? It is there to reduce shift shock. Also check your tranny mount. SUnarus shift hard, but usually it is the up shift not the down shift.

Also do wet and dry numbers

FOR THE LOVE OF GOD NO! Legend has it that the one with the chrome vale covers is powered by the Illudium Q-36 Explosive Space Modulator and rotating the bolts 360 degrees repeatedly will destroy the earth!

Whats too big, the seals or the bearings?

they can be a bit decieving. Why are you worried about it. Are you seeing it in and out or up and down.

Not the cam sensor, as that has to do with injector timing. Car will still run with a bad cam sensor, however crank sensor goes bad the car will not start.

Wash off the engine top and bottom. Let it dry. Park the car ontop of a peace of cardboard. Let the engine warm up, heat full on for about 10-15 minutes then shut it off and look for leaks. Subarus are hard to find some leaks on because they get blown away when the car is moving, especially coolant. Suspects: head gasket external leak. Hairline crack in Radiator. Leaking hose.

Ruke of thumb, anything leaking in Oct will be pouring out fluid in the 1st blizzard of the winter. Replace it now. You can just replace the acc pump.

All idlers Water pump Cam Seals Main Seal Re-seal Water pump Accesory drive belt Thermostat PCV valve Do an oil change afterwards just because. Do a searhc here on timing belts http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/TimingWaterPump.htm 1995 http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f66/timing-belt-pump-change-14416/ forester but same engine

You need a analog muti-meter. Unplug the crank sensor and crank the car, it should not start. If it does something is truly wierd, then disable the fuel injection. Haveing someone else crank the engine, with the AC meter on the lowest range, crank the engine You should see the meter needle jump. I forget the pattern as my manual is not here right now, but I know it is one, then two, then i forget what it is. Another possability is that is is as simple as a bad connector or dirty connector.

High output Alt, they are out there or it can be made. Even then they may not be able to keep up. One light per side would have done just as much. The solution (and the civilized solution) is just to light the side you want to see. That is how most emergency and forest service trucks do it. Remember it is not your forest, it belongs to the animals, they were there first, and the lights can startle them. Also people may not (will not) apreciate the light pollution, you may get smashed lights. You should do dual batteries with an isolated to keep the primary one form going dead. With that many lights I do not think any non (Heavy duty OTR) truck alt could keep up

It shold be the same as the Haynes manual does not call out anything different for the 2 years..

More like signaling to be picked up

You do know that your eye is drawn to the brightest light it sees. Flooding light all around you may make night driving harder, can be considered rather rude. They all need covers as almost every state do not allow for more then 6 uncovered on the road. You may even get in trouble with rangers or troopers. I hope you are running dual batteries. Assuming 55 watts you have 18 55 watt lights V x A = Watts. Thats 990 watts. A 100 amp Alt (to make numbers easy) puts out 1200 watts. You can never keep up with the load. Now add anything like, oh... the engine running, the heater on .. you will get stuck. I have the fogs (55x2), headlights (55x2), Baja (55x2) and driving lights (55x2). I have them all on, plus the parking lights, I notice the draw. Hope you have lots of relays and switches.

I would rather rebuild a manual then rebuild an automatic myself, and I have done it once. It takes many hours If you have never done it before. nipper