nipper

Whats too big, the seals or the bearings?

they can be a bit decieving. Why are you worried about it. Are you seeing it in and out or up and down.

Not the cam sensor, as that has to do with injector timing. Car will still run with a bad cam sensor, however crank sensor goes bad the car will not start.

Wash off the engine top and bottom. Let it dry. Park the car ontop of a peace of cardboard. Let the engine warm up, heat full on for about 10-15 minutes then shut it off and look for leaks. Subarus are hard to find some leaks on because they get blown away when the car is moving, especially coolant. Suspects: head gasket external leak. Hairline crack in Radiator. Leaking hose.

Ruke of thumb, anything leaking in Oct will be pouring out fluid in the 1st blizzard of the winter. Replace it now. You can just replace the acc pump.

All idlers Water pump Cam Seals Main Seal Re-seal Water pump Accesory drive belt Thermostat PCV valve Do an oil change afterwards just because. Do a searhc here on timing belts http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/TimingWaterPump.htm 1995 http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f66/timing-belt-pump-change-14416/ forester but same engine

You need a analog muti-meter. Unplug the crank sensor and crank the car, it should not start. If it does something is truly wierd, then disable the fuel injection. Haveing someone else crank the engine, with the AC meter on the lowest range, crank the engine You should see the meter needle jump. I forget the pattern as my manual is not here right now, but I know it is one, then two, then i forget what it is. Another possability is that is is as simple as a bad connector or dirty connector.

High output Alt, they are out there or it can be made. Even then they may not be able to keep up. One light per side would have done just as much. The solution (and the civilized solution) is just to light the side you want to see. That is how most emergency and forest service trucks do it. Remember it is not your forest, it belongs to the animals, they were there first, and the lights can startle them. Also people may not (will not) apreciate the light pollution, you may get smashed lights. You should do dual batteries with an isolated to keep the primary one form going dead. With that many lights I do not think any non (Heavy duty OTR) truck alt could keep up

It shold be the same as the Haynes manual does not call out anything different for the 2 years..

More like signaling to be picked up

You do know that your eye is drawn to the brightest light it sees. Flooding light all around you may make night driving harder, can be considered rather rude. They all need covers as almost every state do not allow for more then 6 uncovered on the road. You may even get in trouble with rangers or troopers. I hope you are running dual batteries. Assuming 55 watts you have 18 55 watt lights V x A = Watts. Thats 990 watts. A 100 amp Alt (to make numbers easy) puts out 1200 watts. You can never keep up with the load. Now add anything like, oh... the engine running, the heater on .. you will get stuck. I have the fogs (55x2), headlights (55x2), Baja (55x2) and driving lights (55x2). I have them all on, plus the parking lights, I notice the draw. Hope you have lots of relays and switches.

I would rather rebuild a manual then rebuild an automatic myself, and I have done it once. It takes many hours If you have never done it before. nipper

May i ask why?

True http://www.autoblog.com/2010/09/23/subaru-debuts-third-generation-boxer-four-cylinder-engine/ And the heads cooled by their own water jackets solves the HG issues.

Entire ECU (not ECM). i doubt you have lots of codes, but you blew the circuit. It is not a complicated circuit to diagnose.

Just get a used tranny. If you had this car for ever we would do some diagnosing, but a auction car with no history, just save the heartache

I think you fried the ECM. Always on is the default safe mode when the circuit gets fried. On OBDII cars, never assume any circuit can handle 12v or full current of being jumped. If the wires are thin, then they most likely can not take a direct jump. Also circuits do not run the way people think. Ciruits tend to go to ground through the ECU, so jumping the worng side can cause the magical smoke to escape and throw a CEL.

This is the first saturday in November. http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x234/nipper-dawg/NJ%20Pine%20Barrens%20March%2026%202009/ http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x234/nipper-dawg/NJ%20Pine%20Barrens%20Nov%2023/ There are two of us going as of today, we need more soobys! We can't be oun umbered by jeeps! More info to come, but the maps bascially show you where it is. Only thing firm is the date, time should be around 9-10 am.

Try those on someone elses windshield frst (scrapyard?), and never ever take steel wool to glass. If they don't damage the glass then try it on your clear coat issue. I have always found the razorblade works on almost anything. nipper

Doing JB weld now, but would really like the part i broke.

So i was thinking, how about a good dollup of JB weld?

Yes it is

Shawn that email bounces. Can you email me at nipper.dawg@gmail.com please and i will respond.

1995 was the transition year, so yours is electric.