nipper

A nice newly rebuilt shiney Carb for Justy.

I've left early before. We try not to drive into nightfall, that damn devil you know.

http://maps.google.com/maps?oe=UTF-8&ie=UTF8&q=red+lion+diner+New+Jersey&fb=1&gl=us&hq=red+lion+diner&hnear=New+Jersey&cid=0,0,8336496415973819401&ei=eQfUTOG6BYH58AbB49XIBg&ved=0CBMQnwIwAA&ll=39.885504,-74.741364&spn=0.115124,0.208569&z=13&iwloc=A

Change of meeting place, We are meeting at the Red Lion Diner in which is on the way there

Pulling the fuse/fuses (more then one) will not help if they botched up the wiring. There is a fuse for the radio and a fuse for the clock/memory

Like i said, when was the accident

So it is a notch above ......

ah my bad, i meant milliamps. Sorry fighting a sinus infection here.

I dont remember, does subaru use the rear alighnment to help with the steering (passive angle change through suspension axis). If there is a bushing out of wack, it can be causing tire scrub.

Thats a common spot for mistakes. Check how they wired it in. If they butchered it at the plug, undo all thier work, tape up all the ends and see what happens.

I never heard of the 1969 Bucik Weasle. Sure that isn't a Buick Wildcat? I think people would say lets be nice and keep politics on the off topic. Heck we have enough issues discussing engine oil brands and change intervals.

It made it this far with most likely plain ol fashioned dino oil. I would just stick with a name brand that is on sale.

This is going to be a pain in the rump roast, but check the brake lights too. There is also a relay that may be bad. There may be a cross feed someplace. This is really a longshot. Other things to check are dome lights that arent quite off. The amount of accepted usage with the car off is in the millivolt range. Start at the battery connection, voltmeter goes between the battery and the cable. Has the battery been load tested. It is possible to get a bad battery, as i have. I have also seen alts fail relativly quickly as most rebuilds except OE are crap (been there personally). You can test your alt yourself. With everything on get the engine up to 1800 rpm. with a voltmeter go pos to neg. The reading should be 13.5 or better.

*snicker* no that never happens!

WHen the car is off, reomve a parking light bulb and see if there is any voltage there with the car off.

Yes turn left into the driveway and procede exactlly 67 feet and 8 inches, not nine, not seven. hehe

Yes at 10:42 am

Well you can leave whenever you want to if you can find your way out,,,MUHAHAHAHAHA! but seriously, whenever you want to go.

I woul;d also pick random spots on the rear of the car, measur them diaganally and make sure things are square. YOu may have to get out a micrometer and measure the hub where the bearing sits. Make sure nothing is out of round. Where are you getting your bearings from, or are they just what comes with the hub.

Nope, that goes back to the old wives tail that the right wheel transmits all the power to the ground.

hrmmm .. is your rear diff bad? Rear wheel bearings all check out? How is the rear strut? How much weight are you carrying in your car, and how often is the mother in law there Are all the rear end bushings good?

Can someone drive beside you and make sure you are tracking correctly at 70? 1/2 inch is a lot of vibration. Chek to make sure the rack is tight, the steering universal is not seized. Without having the car in my driveway am running out of ideas. Check the motor and tranny mounts. Check the inner CV joints. Check all the busings in the front end, and the ball joints. What happens at 75?

They shouldnt be, as you can use a generic one.

It could, but before thgere is a run on IACV's you should rule everything else out first. CEL's are only tools, not the solution to all running issues. Start a new thread for yours and lets see where we can go with it.

Have you pulled all the fuses (every single one) and done a voltage drain test yet? This sounds like it should be a easy thing to narrow down if the battery is dying every 2 days.