nipper

Go over the car and make sure the ECU is there, and all the fuses are in place. The fact that the scanner can not see the ecu is toublesome. nipper

Welcome. the site is slow on weekends so be patient. Inprezza vs legacies, its personal taste. Imprezzas are smaller and get a little better gas mileage, i like the legacies myself. When buying a used car over 140,000 miles, HG is a non issue, as any car can blow one at that time, and you have to figure that in your what if scenario. If its under 100,000 then yes you need to figure that in. Upper end of mileage? Thats an inknown on a sooby. Its a mix of condition of the car, how much its selling for, and how much risk you want to assume (ie the body is in great shape, i got it for XXX bucks so if it needs an engine or a tranny big deal) kind of thing. nipper

Lets start with checking the obvious. Does the car have an intact ECU? It almost sounds like it is missing or its bad. The lights, start by pulling fuses and see if they go out. If the dont you have a short someplace and its backfeeding to the dash. nipper

Yes its the same switch. Check the condition of the cable. I think what this means is that there may be somethig wrong with the switch overall, as oposed to the inhibitor switch (positions P and N) itself. But dont quote me on that. Clear the code and see if it comes back. nipper

Cam seals Main seal re-seal the valvecovers (or at least inspect them to see if they are leaking). To do those you need to remove the timing belt, so you know what that means..... timing belt, tensioner, idler and waterpump (since you are already there). Inspect the back of the engine and see if you have an oil leak there. If you do thats the plastic seperator plate leaking. Also sonething that you should do today, is replace the PCV valve. That will remove some stress off the seals and help reduce leaking. nipper

1 month = 1000 miles. You are overdue for a timing belt and all the associated parts. You can also use a tranny fluid change. The airbag inspection came about because no one was really sure how long the SRS would remain functioning. Right now it is assumed they last the life of the car. All the dealer is going to do is scan the SRS puter for any issues, which is what the SRS light on the dashbaord is for. I would skip it. nipper

Also everyone knows red cars are faster nipper

Make sure tires match. Make sure the FWD holder under the hood on the pass side is empty. Drive the car in a full lock (tight) circle. The car should be able to do this at idle or slight throttle. If Tehre is TB you will notice the car will lurch constantly, and it may not even be able to make a tight turn. On lurch when first starting the manuver is ok (thats the puter figuring things out) but more then one is bad. TB is very obvious when it happens, it is a "gee that aint right" moment. This goes for manuals or autos. nipper (exceppt manuals dont have a fuse or a computer)

I think we need to change the formula that we use. I go by what is the cost of repairs vs the new car payments for a year and additional insurance. nipper

pretty red. nipper

i'm almost broke, and in the middle of a sucky anxiety attack. i dont start becoming social till mid march nipper

front.

My mileage took a huge dump when mine went bad. i lost almost 6mpg on the highway and 4-6 in the city. It has gotten much better, but i think i may need plugs now from the bad O2 sensor. i got mine from www.1stsubaru.com. it was on sale, so i dont know if the prices (and mine is a 97) still apply. The alternative is you have a bad cat, but at that mileage, your going to need a O2 either way, so its not throwing money away. nipper

front. When i replaced the rear i used a 49.00 generic sensor. nipper

well i said cheap then you said cheap. And i just got a OE subaru O2 sensor from 1st subaru for 98.00 plus shipping. nipper

Its still behind the back seat. it can easily be done from inside the car on a legacy, i've done it. nipper

for a PCV (positive crankse ventilation valve). That is impossible, its only a 5-10.00 part. Its about 3-4" long and screws into the intake manifold, total time to install it 2 minutes. nipper

Behind the back seat under the floor are two plates Remove the screws and the plates (dont loose the tiny screws). Under those are the sending units. Passenger side has the light and fuel pump, right side has the sender, remove them (dont loose the tiny nuts). Clean the wipe arm surface of the senders with a hard pencil eraser (that may help the gauge). Inspect the bracket for damage. The light sender may be bad. It should be obvious as to which one it is. they dont go bad often but it happens. nipper

I wonder if your sender is bent or something. usually a can of techron helps, but you may have worse issue. Your range is about what i see depending upon traffic ect etc etc. How mechanical are you? Its really easy to pull the snders (you have two) and check them. nipper

they are so chaep i actually recomend doing them once a year on an older car. nipper

170 or better, but its not just that. An engine with a lot of miles having 150psi in all four cylinders is better then one with 170 160 150 175. nipper

Well a belated welome then. nipper

So far i see nothing out of line here, the car is ageing, and its all stuff that would happen to any car with age. The trouble code is a front O2 sensor. keep it. nipper

yes. Svx issues are from the lockup clutch chedding material. You need a an external cooler and an external line filter for the tranny. They are expensive toys. The windshield is 800.00. the rear wheel bearings are weak. Parts are expensive. Strong engines, very safe cars. Automatic HVAC which seems to be aging well. They are almost like a trophy wife. really pretty, expensive, but may be worth every penny.

What weight oil is in the car, and what is the outside temp? Does the oil pressure go down once the car is warmed. Over tightening the valve cover gaskest is a common cause of leaking, followed by beinding the covers from prying them off from stubborn gaskets.