nipper

come to the dark side.....

There is (if i remeber correctly and you have a carb) an antdieseling solenoid. It hangs straight out from the carb. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=142&d=1065406831 See the hex shaped cylinder with the single wire coming off it.... thats it. Your carb may not be exactly the same, but the ADS will be. nipper

Hey i was very very close. Yes this happens on all engines, just uncommon. nipper

Well highly unlikely due to the low mileage, but only things down there to make noise are the water pump, the timing belt tensioner and idler. nipper

i just had a bad idea. Start the car and look at the bottom pulley. Does it have any wobble in it? If it does don't drive the car and have it towed to the mechanic. Another source for noise can be a bad altenator bearing or a possible PS bearing. nipper

I thought you said you replaced the belt? Spray some water on the other belt and see if the noise changes.

Check the tenioner bearing on the AC belt, its probably bad. nipper

The 80's tend to be really really foggy to me...

Lets try this for a 3rd time (white screen of death) Has anyone looked under the car just to see if there are any damaged wires ? nipper

They should be pulling codes if the CEL is on no matter what condition the car is in. Limp home mode is just that. It will get the car back "home" (repair shop) under its own power so you wont get stranded. Under limp mode the engine RPM be limited. If this was an automatic you would be limited to 50 mph max. The stalling may or not be related, but its sort of like treating someone for a hang nail and chest pains at the same time, when you really need to worry about the chest pains first. nipper

To really see whats happening you need to have a diff opened up to understand it, its hard to visualize when its locked up in a peice of metal nipper

Thats actually nothing to get excited about. It's normal. nipper

Keep checking. The AUTO has two sensors, and in a 1998 they are both in the transmission. The reason for two is for the the computer to properly operate the AWD clutch pack. In pre OBD2 the 2nd sensor is part of the spedo head. This is a manual which uses a non-electronic Viscous coupling (in this year) to operate the awd. Without the VSS operating, the car is in limp mode, so its really hard to diagnose anything properly untill its fixed. nipper

What he said. nipper

1998 doesnt have a cable, its all electronic. It sounds like you lost the Vehical Speed Sensor. Maybe you hit something and damaged the harness. nipper

Plugged cat you would hit a wall, and never get past that point. Timing belt is interesting... nipper

Phase 1 leak internally, phase 2 externally, this is a phase 1 if its a 2.5. lets start from scratch. Did you install a subaru Thermostat? Did you slowly (and i mean slowly) refill the cooling system while the car was running, then topped it odd after the T-stat (Surge out the rad cap neck) opened? DO you see bubbles in the coolant with the cap off and the car warmed up and running? nipper

ah yes thats right no wires.

I see no mention of ignition wires. I would think coil. HOw old are the plugs. This sounds like an ignition breakdown to me. It oonly does it under load when hot? nipper

Well dont worry, Pretty soon you will need a tow truck, and some one else will do them for you. and it wont be pretty. nipper

hrmmmm Do a search on Torque Bind. Usually dealers are very good at diagnosing torque bind, but i am having a problem adding everything up. Do you have a problem pulling into parking spaces or making tight turns? Do all your tires match and are properly inflated? When was the last time the transmission fluid was changed? nipper

i havent done it so i'll let someone else answer. nipper

assuming no brake drag, yes its a safe assumption. nipper