nipper

Its easy. AAA from one state does not talk to another. I have AAA gold. So I got towed from PA to the 100 mile limit, into the NJ line. From there another call to NJ AAA, tow to the 100 mile max, someplace in ny. Then another call to NY AAA and that got me home . Its not fast, but for free slow is fine. A AAA tow truck driver in PA told me this trick. It was disturbing, he said i looked to purty to be stranded in the middle of PA on a sunday. He did have a sort of handsome tooth in his head EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK I could of sworn I heard banjos..... nipper

I can sort of understand the logic. But then again i figured out how to do a three state tow from them too nipper

If its in a shop, and he wants to get it home, it is safe enough to drive out into the street and wait for the tow truck AAA wont tow from a garage, but will from in front of it. nipper

two words, Tow Truck. The OP does not know how lucky he is. nipper

nipper

Thats the advantage of AWD, it doesnt break loose, If you have an automatic, put the FWD fuse in the holder under the hood. This disables the AWD and you will see the differnce. The other factor is the tires. Blu needs tires this year, so he is hydroplaning a bit. Tires will be in the spring. nipper

Blu got the same code at 205,000 miles. replaced the O2 sensor, and the code is gone. Original cat at 220,000 miles. Replace the O2 sensor, worst thats going to happen is that you have a bad cat, the code will still be there, (then we replace the rear one too) and youve saved much dollars. If the cat is still bad, you would have had to replace the sensors anyway, so no loss. nipper

There already is a thread about this. My money is that the guy who had his car impounded, pushed the price up with his buddy in an attempt to screw the seller. nipper

Thats what im thinking, as it seems to be much more velocity oriented then engine rpm. I have owned many soobies, with the one before Blu being a high mileage legacy, a year newer. It never had a personality, so never a name. Blu on the other hand, simply refuses to wait till to 7500 miles for an oil change. If its not done by 5000 miles, he starts to run rough at idle, and in general is a bit grumpy. So at 5600 miles I got him an oil change, and he is running smoother again and no more tantrums, so far. I checked the paperwork, I have exaclty 6000 miles left on the engine warrenty. I will be keeping a close on the coolant to see what is going on. Tomorrow i'll check the air intake. Thanks nipper

http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/feb2004pdf/4EAT.pdf there you go, page 11. nipper

http://www.endwrench.com/archive/sysdrive.html Lots of information there nipper

Coolant level normal. Got the car up to 180 degrees, and all seems normal. Did find some drips under the car, that may have come from the overflow. Not wet, just drops. Radiator level is normal. And now there is some odd "hum" from the passnger side of the engine bay. It doesnt really follow engine rpm, more like it gets drowned out. Shut the key off, and a half second later its stopped. I can't tell when it starts. Its an odd haunting sort of hum. Put my hand on the abs unit, I can't feel it running. I cant rule out the ABS. I did the rolled up newspaper as stethascope and I am sure its not a mechanical noise. It sounds like your going hmmmmmmm softly. grrrrrrr It's defenitly a new noise. After Dinner I'll take blu for an oil change and see what happens. nipper

49 degrees and sadly clean and dry roads. I didnt shut the engine off when I got home. I pooped the hood, and the overflow was back to normal, actually a bit low. once the engine cools off I'll check the radiator level. Who knows it may have just been some trapped air and I'm worring about nothing. I just know Blu to well, when I have money, he wants some of it too. nipper

I do believe they are double flair. Best bet is to use the original start point and finish point, but route then differntely inbetween. If your going to do one, do them both. Get yourself some sort of thick stiff wire to shape the bends, then match them up on the tubing. Thats just a connector block. Good luck. Porc no pics of the brake line routing ?

I have never had the air problem, just because of the way I fill the radiators on any car. I am not used to the problem first hand . if the temp gauge went up I would have known immediatly it was air in the system. I even asked the body shop If the knew about the radiators, and they said yes they are a pain in the but So i figured they knew. nipper

Drove Blu 1.1 miles to the Gym. Was in the gym for 30-40 minutes, came out, decided to go to the computer store. Got about three miles and I am seeing pufs of steam comming out of the hood. Overflow tank is to the hot line, not over flowing, not full. Its windy so I can't see the source of the steam. The scangaguge is showing 180-190 and its 48 degrees outside. I decide to go home (about 3 miles) and the Overflow is down back where it should be. Tempertiure gauge never moved. Blu has 210,000 miles on him, at 191,000 Got a brand new hybrid Suabaru engine. In december, much to my surprise, Blu got a brand new radiator from the deer hit. Blu wasnt leaking anything after the hit, so this perplexes me. Before that Blu got a new radiator from Subaru with the engine. So Basically under the hood Blu is a new car with 20,000 miles on him. I am thinking some traped air from after the body shop replaced the radiator? I dont know as Ive had the car on a few 400 mile trips since then. The cap was replaced with the engine. Suggestions? nipper

Its not a matter of it cant be this because, its a matter of ruling things out. Best time to check all this is first time the car is driven, otherwise you may see them at all. nipper

Yup, better stability and steering, and also a more effecient use of space. Less likely to tip over. nipper

Yup that would do it too. nipper

Brake booster test must be done as a master cylinder and booster can both feel the same, and can both come and go. Pump the barke pedal 10 times with the car off. Put fott on brake pedal. Start car, pedal should move to the floor. Also do this test first thing in the morning. If it passes this test, clean or replace the check valve for the brake booster. Its not the ABS unless the ABS is leaking. ABS is a flow through design, so it wont affect it if its not operating. How old is the brake fluid. nipper

It went from 1400.00 to 11,000.00 to 11,100.00. Either there is a typo or jokester, but i bet we see it back again. I bet the winning bid was the original owenr of the car trying to screw over baltimore. nipper

Agreed, Its no longer a GT now. 1995 135 HP and 140 Ftlbs 1999 142 HP and 149 Ftlbs You should pick up about 3 mpg. Youll notice the differnce in the hills. When i Went form a 2.2L legacy to a 2.5L outback, it was like night and day climbing hills. good luck And remember NOW you have a 60K interval fro timing belts. nipper

Thats about right, though if your mechanically inclined this is something you can do in your driveway. Did you notice any odd vibarions before this happened? How many miles are on the car? nipper

Your cool i found them. Skip ... click on photos under his name. nipper

EEEK Skip, he lost a universal joint on the driveshaft, and ripped out the second O2 sensor. From what i can tell you need a used driveshaft, and a rear o2 sensor. The O2 sensor can be a generic one (read cheap) from any wutoparts store. the driveshaft can be had from a junk yard. It's not that terrible, assuming thats all the damage. I cant see what condition the exhaust system is in. nipper