nipper

Tis ok i can even find any mention ANYWHERE on the net about the replacment, aside from the 100 bolts, and a few bad tensioners that were replaced by subaru when those few cars came in for service. nipper

i always found the central locking amusing on the 2dr soobies. was just as easy to reach over an unlock the passneger side now if it was a 4 door i could understand hehehe nipper

i wonder if she has seen any of these engines yet .... nipper

YO dude, i quoted the MSRP not thier discounted prices. I even said that in the thread. Either way we are talking almost a grand in parts, so the point i sort of moot. Its just damn expensive. EDIT my apologies DUDE, i said that in the first draft. Since USMB had been flaky i had been writing it on word then posting. Aparently it didnt make it here. I am guessing 6-8hrs labor, so add another 800 nipper

Fine dont beleive me about regular oil changes :-p nipper

Never use 4wd on dry ground. Ideally dont use it on just a rain slick road either. If you seriously can not get it back into 2wd after makeing this mistake, Jack up one wheel of the car. This will allow the driveline to unwind, then you can shift it into 2wd. This car does not have a center differnetial. The front axle spins faster then the rear due to the ability to steer. This puts a twist on the drive line. Normally a center diff would alloe the two to turn freely. This is an old school real 4wd (which is actually 2wd) system. nipper

Doesnt matter as long as you change it regularly. Dino vs Synthetic is an entirely different thread.. and much safer to talk religon nipper

thats about right nipper i actually fill up around town at the 280 mark, on the highway 350 mark. i may have to start filling up at the 200 mark just to dull the pain at the pumps. I know same amount of fuel, just easier to swallow in smaller chunks. nipper

Lets see, 1st subaru Left chain 59.95 Right chain59.95 #1 tensioner 43.37 #2 tensioner 68.58 #3 Tensioner 68.58 #4 tensioner 68.58 Right Idler Gear 40.87 Left Idler Gear 34.95 #1 Guide 46.80 #2 Guide 26.00 #3 Guide 17.32 #4 Guide 34.67 #5 guide 26.00 (eek didnt realize the 6 was a DOHC) right intake cam gear 65.00 right exhaust cam gear 60.88 Left Intake 56.32 Right exhaust 56.32 (that makes no sense) Crankshaft gear (which in the old days you never replaced) 31.95 Water pump 116.95 I cant find the seals. Worse case scenario (which after 200,000 is reasonable). These are MSRP. parts alone are 983.44. Add another 20 for seals i imagine, and what ever sooby gets for coolant. A brand new short block is 2514.87 scary. I guess a timing chain for most people would determin the life of the car. I will stick timing belts thank you. nipper EDIT you can probably drop the cam gear prices, but i am not 100% sure on that. The drawing isnt clear on how or which gear drives the cam shafts. It looks like the chain drives the intake cam, and the exhaust runs off the intake cam.

Open an account (free) at photobucket. From there you post pics, and put the link here. The picture will show up here. nipper

Anything can be done with a torch, a machine shop, and lots of cash. nipper

As the engine cools down, a cylinder that is sealed, creats a vacum. This is just a really long shot theory understand... That is when the oil may be sucked in, but I still think the PCV valve should be changed first before we really start looking for a problem that may not exist. nipper

In the days before tensioners, chains would wear out when they had a realativly short distance between gears at about 120,000 miles. Some would last longer, some less. A timing chain is really a complicated part, with lots of places for stretching to occur. With 100's of links, it doesnt take much stretch per link to add up. I wouldnt expect one to last for ever. It doesnt matter if the thing is bathed in virgin oil thats changed every month. With heat, and the pulses of load that the chain sees, plus temperiture variations, I would expect (like bmw) 200,000 to be a nice long life, I would not expect it to be the life of the car, in the way that we on this board define the life of a subaru (drive till the doors fall off). Besides, look at all the six cylinders we get to play with that are scraped due to a tired timing chain nipper

Actually for a while that was standard foreign car procedure for locking the car. I am prety sure thats even in the owners manual, if anyone still has one. And yes it is to make you stop and think if you have the key or not. nipper

Long shot here, but when was the last time the PCV valve was changed (odds are it hasnt been changed). Thats the biggest cause for subaru oil burning. I would rule out stem seals right now. How much oil are you actually using? If your burning it, your using it, and it should be dropping between oil changes. It takes very little oil to make lots of blue smoke. If you are still worried about it, a compression test is next on the agenda, but i'm guessing its the pcv valve. nipper

In theory, but in all honesty, we drive these things for over 200,000 miles, and mechanical parts dont last for ever. Things do wear out. Also no one has hit high mileage yet with one, so we really dont know. ALso the "life of the car" is usually detrmined by the first major repair bill over 100,000 miles, and that is usually an engine (head gasket, rod bearing) or a blown tranny repair that is used to determine when that life is over. Technically Blus life was over when he threw a connecting rod. He just had an owner that saw the benefit of dropping a chunk of change in him for a second life. nipper

Subarus dont smoke whne HG go back. They also dont suffer from eroded impellers on the water pump. Do replace the radiator cap and clean the radiator nneck. One possability is a clogged radiator. Another is a air bubble in the cooling system. Put the T-stat back in the car. With the car running, SLOWLY fill the cooling system (make sure the radiator air vent is open. Wait for the thermostate to open, you wil see a surge of fluid out of the radiator neck. Top off the fluid, again slowly. Close the air vent, look for bubbles in the coolant. Make sure the overflow tank is filled to the hot line. Drive the car around the block. Shut the car off and let it cool down. Check the coolant level. Start the car with the cap off, monitoring the engine temp and coolant level. Top off if needed. Go for a test drive. If that has no effect, then you have to start looking deeper. Since you are always over heating, do a wet and dry compression test. This doesnt always show a bad HG, but not everyone has an air compressor at home to do a good leakdown test, and its a simple place to start. Its a fail/maybe test. There are also products around to test for exhaust gasses in the coolant. ALso no matter what, you wil be needing a new timing belt, seals, and a waterpump (while your there, insurance against murphy). good luck.

Also do you know any history of the car ? nipper

Where did you get that number, im curious. and yes there are 100 bolts to remove to get to the timing chain. Someone at subaru when hardware happy. nipper

miles. Actually the tank takes 15.9, so what is that 14.8? nipper

So not going to tell us the number Check the bulb, as the transducer is fairly trouble free. nipper

I think some of them are the prettiest cars that subaru ever made, especially in green or blue. I've only seen them in green. nipper

One word of warning, a failed AWD unit, manual or automatic, can make for some very scary handling in rain or snow, so adjust your driving accordingly nipper

sport utility sedan. I always wanted one nipper

Thats what i was thinking. nipper