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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. The coolant is pushed out of the radiator by combustion pressures. When the car is moving, you do not notice this as it is sprayed all over the road. Subaru HG leaks are very hard to diagnose at first. You usually need to have the engine hot to test for combustion gases, or a pressure test of the cooling system when hot. Also they tend to be one way leaks at first. The combustion gasses at 1000's of PSI will push through, but the coolant pressure of 14 psi wont push back into the cylinder. This is why Subarus dont make a smoke screen like some cars do when the blow a HG.
  2. Sounds like the shop doesnt know subarus well. !st thing is that it needs to be a subaru t-stat. 2nd i would replace the cap. Next i would make sure there is no air bubble in the cooling system (fill the system extreemly slowly with the enigne running and hot). If there is still a problem (how is the overflow tank) test the radiator for combustion gasses. Now if this was in your driveway I would say look for bubbles in the coolant. Congratulations on watching the temp gauge and knowing enough to baby the car. Even if it is a HG, you have saved your engine nipper
  3. "Somebody should confirm this, but I think while engine braking the fuel injectors cut off, or at least there is a minimal amount of combustion going on" The injectors dont shut off. There is the same amount of combustion going on as is needed determined by the computer program to make enough power to keep the catalyst hot, the engine running, and the accessories spinning. nipper
  4. Lets start out with basics, how many miles are on this engine. It has been reported here that subaru ECU judges misfire by a simple comparison. The Crank sensor sends out a signal to the ECU to fire a coil. The coil fires. The ECU monitors to watch that this happens. I have alwasy hoped that it is a bit more sophisticated then that, but aparently not. With a good osscilliscope, one can tell when the misfire happesn in the spark cycle (primary, secondary, voltage leak etc), but the days of scopes and engine analyzers seem to be gone. In open loop, the engine runs off precalibrated settings. It still needs the cam position sensor and crank position sesnor, that doesnt change. When you switch to closed loop, the ECU is running off the input of the O2 sensor. What you may be mistaking as a loop status switch, is just a warm engine vs a cold engine. You can check the Crank sensor for signal both warm and cold, but I dont think that is the problem. Cam sesnosr as an FYI is input for the fuel injectors. If it was a position sensor and the car is running, it would throw a code. Move the ignition wires from 1-2 to 3-4 and see if the problem moves. you may have a vacume leak, DOuble check all the hoses. nipper
  5. Mr Obvious A few things. It wouldnt hurt to replace the radiator cap at this point. A cooling system servicing wouldnt be a bad idea. Also inspect the radiator, make sure it is clear of debree. I think this is just more of maint then a mechanical failure. nipper
  6. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/subaruvanagon/?yguid=281753844 http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/subaruVanagon2/?yguid=281753844 nipper
  7. I'm going with a timing belt idler or tensioner had failed. This may be major engine damage if the valves hit the pistons. If this si the case, have them all replaced, and replace the water pump while you are at it. good luck.
  8. there are a couple of lists on yahoo that do these conversions. They are very popular. There is also a kit to help you. nipper
  9. pumps are cheap and universal, about 15.00 at any autoparts store. Have you cleaned out the squirter thingy? It may be clogged with goo, or it can be eroded inside and no longer any good. Swap sides and see whats happens. nipper
  10. Normal smoke will disipate. HG smoke will be a heavy thick smog and will hang around. Subarus dont smoke when they blow a HG (even the worst ones). I dont think you have a HG issue. How is your coolant level? nipper
  11. not to my knowledge. You have to take a straight edge and run it over the deck (or what they call a deck) to see if everything is still flat. Are you sure its a HG? Whits smoke in this weather is normal and not a HG issue. I would start with a compression test, both wet and dry. nipper
  12. There is no reason in the world to start off with the most expensive possability. Bad mount can cause things to pop out of gear, it can cause noise if there is now metal against metal contact. If things move out of alignment it can cause vibration. Next ix check the condition o fht transsmission lubricant, when was the last time it was changed. If it was never, it may be too late. You look at the tranny mount and enigne mounts, shif linkage, gear oil condition, then decided if it is any or all of these, before you condem the tranny. And yes it is possible its the synchro going too. nipper
  13. Also one other thing. If the engine was cooked repeatedly the first time, a cylinder liner could have worked loose and shifted. In that case the engine is scrap. http://www.aa1car.com/library/gasket_failure.htm nipper
  14. Its not a self protect, its to help the engine and tranny warm up faster for emissions and such. It's normal, just be nice to it for the first ten minutes or so. nipper
  15. Start with the simple things first, like a really angry transmission motor mount. The car is old enough to need one. nipper
  16. I would love to if you can explaine it a little better. nipper
  17. looks like its the mother of all blind spots. Sort of reminds me of a cartoon shark. nipper
  18. This means that the old tires were 70% more worn then the yoko. Walk away from the car. There are enough of these around, and this one may have expensive issues in the future. nipper
  19. Can be as simple as the mechanisim needing lubricating inside the door. nipper
  20. Do you mean the lock cylinder, power door lock movement, or the inside lock? nipper
  21. AH your in scotland, so I dont know what the warrenty situation is over there, but yes its worth repairing. nipper
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