nipper

Wow this must be truly bad.... no one has laid claim to any parts on it. nipper

Let me guess, thosae 3 cats all came from the same supplier.... who is? nipper

But i do need more coffee ...obviously and biscuits just fall aprat in coffee .. nipper

I dont understand the methology for that test. The wheel should turn freely if the car is in neutral, park, or drive. Since one wheel is off the ground, the differential on that axle is operating independently of the center diff and will turn normally. Technically you can hold the driveshaft with your hands (rear) and the jacked up wheel will turn freely. Or am i missing something nipper and that was porcupines biscuit, so you cant have it

hehehehehe Aint he cute, the first one of the new year nipper

no biscuit.... nipper

Heat up the yoke. A toruch will get the metal on one side to expand more then the other, breaking the grip that the rust has on it. nipper

Always USE oe on subarus, ESPECIALLY if OE is cheaper. I change mine once every 100,000 miles, or if the car gives me a reason to change them. nipper wow i wonder what kind of mark up NAPA is getting.

Its the best I could find that wasnt from my own brain Its also a bit old, but i was only looking for wire info ... nipper

Opps checked my notes, it was 50,000 volts. We tested the distrubutor caps at 100K No amperage, but the smell of Ozone was horrible. And yes it hurts like hell. Just tripped over this Ignition 101. http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Ignition/CDI.html

I used to work for Blue Streak/Standard motor products. We made our own wires. We would test them against OE, and all the competitors wires. The test was 300 hours at 300 degrees with 100,000 volts runniong through the wires, bent over a 2 inch diameter pipe (SAE Standard test). Beldesn Wires always failed very quickly. With us, when we made our wires, we made sure that they exceeded OE specificcations. Belden seemed to build to a common denominator. Also not all silicon is the same. The Higher the resistivity of the silicon, the thicker it is, and the more expensive it is to make. Also the Silicone can not be contaminated during production. Again this is a cost issue. Cheap wires, lesser materials, less attention to the details. Wires are one of the few places where you get what you pay for. Subarus use a waste spark ignition system. This means that two plugs fire at once. Electricity wants to travel the path of least resistance. If anything is out of balance or mismtached, the electricity will choose that path instead of the spark plug in the cylinder that is ready to fire. Contaminated spark plug insulation is a big problem for almost any iginition system, but even more so with a waste spark Also if the wires are not insulated properly , a voltage can be induced in a wire. This doesnt happen as much as it used to, but is easy to do in a car with ires that run parallel to each other. That is why wire trees are important. They keep the wires away from each other reducing this. http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm NOw the reason why older wires fail is that the silicon starts to break down. The engine compartment is a very hostile place for almost anything. The Silicon breaks down, and it will creat a path for voltage to leak. nipper

Tis ok, i understand that the web is one dimensional and people dont sound like they really are. I have just learned when it comes to AWD and subarus, to not assume the tire thing and just blurt it out . nipper

Type 1 were beetles and ghias Type 2 was the Bus Type 3 was the fastback type 4 was that hideous thing that looked like a fastback on steroids (not in a good way) I thought. Thats why he was throwing me off. I only heard the transporters only defined by split windshield or not (like split window bugs) http://www.type2.com/m-codes/t2models.html http://www.vintagebus.com/techinfo/definitions.html nipper

When was the last time the plugs were changed, and the wires? nipper

Just for giggles, lets clear all the codes. Disconnect the battery for 30 minutes to do a hard reset (as I am not sure if one minute is long enough). This will clear all the codes in the ecu, and tcu. It will also clear the memory of your driving habits (and sadly your radio presets). Drive the car and then if the light comes back again, lets test it. You did no damage by driving in third aside from burning gas. The FWD fuse does not save you gas unless you rip out the rear diff and driveshaft. The engine still has to move all that mass. The only way to reduce that mass is to remove it. So only use the FWD fuse if you have a flat tire, and if you have torque bind. Since your a newbee, always make sure your tires match, are worn equally, and properly inflated. nipper

Lets put it this way, they were there to begin with, they dont cost a lot of money, if it confudses you, put them back. Subarus dont have many uneccassary parts to them nipper

Well it is a flex joint. I always replace them. nipper

There is a method for gaining access to those codes, you dont need a code monitor. You dont need to look at the OBDII codes, but its not a bad idea to get them read. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81497&highlight=transmission+trouble+codes What the light is telling you is that the last time the car was operated, there was some sort of electrical fault. That link will explain how to pull them. Do one quick test. Go out and drive in a tight circle. If the car can turn under its own power smoothly, its not a duty C failure. If it jerks, wont move, or needs a lot of throttle, you have a failed Duty C solenoid. If this is the case, and it just happened, you may get away with just replacing the solenoid. If you have been driving it like this for a while, you may need clutches too. nipper

Thats what is under Blu too. The FSM is even more confusing. It calls that pipe a rear exhaust pipe, and shows the 2nd cat as its own part. I have no idea how to post a PDF here, but if anyone wants to see it i can email it to them. nipper

So the pipe would be cheaper from 1st subaru? nipper

I'm in NY and both Blu and my 98 had the same setup. I would really like to see the price he payed for the pipe, and if he calls one of the on line suppliers what they say. nipper

Yes its a resonator. nipper

I looked it up in the facotry manual, and it says something like 11.5 cu inches in the resivoir. They dont mention any system capacity at all. Gte yourself 3 small cans. Open as you need them, One may do the job, but you can always return the unsealed cans to the store. I cant see it taking more then two cans, more like 1 and then some. You can roughly guess how much by doing the math, but i think just purchasing more small cans then you need is easier nipper

I have gotten screwed three times by the computerized testors. Either the techs dont know how to use them or read them. Three times they told me I had a good altenator, I pulled out my old resistor type tester like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/125-Amp-Battery-Tester-ATD-5495_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43989QQihZ004QQitemZ140194843158QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW and it told me i had a failed altenator. I replaced the altenator and all my problems went away. See if you can find a shop or a store with one of these. nipper

PS - The bends look wrong at the front of the pipe. http://www.walkerexhaust.com/catalog/ExhaustCouponScreen.asp Go there and look. It is a different pipe and it wont work. The one you have has another cat in front of it as another pipe. http://www.walkerexhaust.com/images/coupons/1416.gif DO yourself a favor, contact https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html Send them an email with the pic and ask them. nipper