nipper

Would it sputter or just stop nipper

get new clips for the throw out bearing. They dont survive the install sometimes, and wont let you know till a few 1000 miles later.

why oh why do i have to bring bad news.... its either the seals or the front pump. Only way of truly knowing is with a set of pressure gauges on the tranny. When the tranny is cold, everything is tight, and the fluid is thick. You get enough pressure to engage things (the tranny is slipping a bit but you cant feel it). As everything warms up, fluid thins out, seals get soft, you loose pressure. At this point tray an additive and a fluid change to see if it helps. If it was just a bad VSS, as the engine got to redline, the tranny would force an upshift no matter what if it was healthy. Start off in D2 after you loose all the upper gears. This wil start you off in 2nd gear, see what happens. Then if that works, try shifing to d3 or D whichever one you have next. nipper

more eggnogg I think he means the CEL does not come on when the car is in self test (of the bulb) mode. nipper

What happens if you start off in D2 ? What happens if you (i hate asking) rev it out, does it force an upshift? Do you have reverse? My first guess would be its not getting a speed signal (govenor in older trannies, VSS in newer). nipper

not necassarily. If its the original cable, and you can spare the money, you may think about replacing it. you cant really tell if it needs adjusting or its failing untill the cable goes snap, or it wont hold an adjustment. Usually its a good idea to replace the cable with the clutch, especially if there are a lot of years on the cable. I am guessing since its a fairly new clutch, the cable may be failing. nipper

If you think the alt is expensive, you should price the individual parts. You really cant (well you can) just replace the regulator, but at that point you should do the brushes too. The days of external voltage regulators are long gone. nipper

a bad battery can kill an altenator 197.00 eeek at https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/partscat.html what is the cost difference?

On another list there was a sooby with a bad diff that did the same thing. It ws a rear diff. Check the fluids, and a diff will get louder as it gets worse. They can take a long time to get worse, but are un mistakable in the sound they make when they do. nipper

http://www.nhtsa.gov will have the recall, as well as http://www.cars101.com nipper

Not for diagnostics. There are a few ways of doing it without fully charging the system with refrigerant, especially if the system came in dead, and they already had some suspicons. Refrigerant is not cheap anymore,so they dont use it as freely as they used to. ivantruckman said it well, so i wont repeat him nipper

Sadly at this pijnt it will need to be evacuated. Now if he could get his hands on a vacume pump and some gauges nipper

You can replace it yourself, replace the seals yourself, and install a replacement compressor yourself. A new drier will be more hardy then an older one. This way all the other shop has to do is evacuate and recharge the system. nipper

Sadly yes on the drier. The desicant in them tends to fall apart if the system has been exposed to air (ie no pressure in the system). You can chance it, but then if it does fail you can get junk all through the AC system and do double work. Depending on how long ago it was converted and how long its been dead, you could replace the O rings as a just in case thing yourself. How long has it been dead? nipper

If it is the alt, check the online OED suppliers. I think they have the alt a lot cheaper then off the street. The 300.00 one is for the imprezza. I am not home so i dont have the links otherwise i would check for you. Even if they dealer is high, try to get it from the dealer, as they last longer then the rebuilt aftermarket ones. At almost 7 years old, your due for a battery. nipper

Sometimes i just don't get what some people are trying to say. I try to keep in mind that other people with similar problems may be reading the thread. so its preferable to add information then omit it. Disagree with me then agree with me? I guess that big blue car I have has something else under the hood besides a 2.5, or the multitude of other subarus i have worked on. I am also the first to admit i dont know, and freely admit my weaknesses. I would never make a snide comment to you, since I do not know you personally. I'll just make things easier for you and not respond directly to your threads, and wish you a happy holiday. nipper

When in neutral, and you rev the engine, does the sound change. Check your PS and tranny levels. Does it change when going in reverse. Does it change on curves or turns nipper

My guess is that its a clutch cable that going bad, and seeing how christmas is coming, is going to break then. Murphy does so love wrapping paper. nipper

My spare key says DA25 on it nipper

Thats one way to get the seats warm nipper

Thats why something doesnt add up (i'm not blaming the poster, just the repair shop). I wouldnt warrenty an engine on just a top end rebuild either. nipper

:lol: nipper

Did they do a wet and dry test on the compression? Does anyone per chance have the numbers? nipper

Its a fail/maybe test. If they were going to keep the engine, a compression test should be mandatory. Not to determin if it is a hg (by itself) but to find out what condition the engin is in generally. I would not recomend a HG change on an engine with 160 or less due to wear (just to toss a number out there). If the test comes up with low compression on one cylinder, test confirms the HG, if not, time for the next test. You need to look at more then the problem on an older engine, but also the condition in general of what your working with. nipper

Well i can tell you that you are going to have to adress the leaks sooner then later. You have cam seals, main crank seal, and probably the oil pump needs resealing. That can all be done at the next timing belt change. The way those leaks work, I dont think thats going to help. Good luck. nipper