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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. Oil leaks are common to subarus as the get older. This car is a little young for them, but the low mileage can be just as bad as high mileage on a seals. Last time i did this i had everything replaced up front and it was 700.00 ish (re seal everything timing belt water pump tensioner). Why not do it yourself? This is a SOHC so its much easier then the 2.5L nipper
  2. I had a 98 leagcy L, it was a 2.2L http://www.cars101.com/subaru_legacy_archive98_99.html nipper
  3. Subaru did some odd things. Like Blu is the only one ive seen with a wood grain radio bezel. Then there are some other odd ball decal and "packages" around. Unfortunitly there is no way to tell or explain some of these things. I dont have the rear diff cover, but i do have a power antenna, nipper
  4. Actually that goes for any car with bad struts or shocks. Part of the job of the dampner is to keep the wheels on the ground. When a damper is bad (ever see a car dribbling a wheel on the highway and wonder how in hell can they not feel that) it is a MAJOR saftey item. When the trie is bouncing you have no control over that wheel. nipper
  5. er its just a wittle late..... Just a wittle .... a tiny bit ... http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html every 60,000 miles or 60 months. Its after 2000 that it jumps to 105,000 miles. nipper
  6. Exedy is a good clutch, but the deeper something is in the driveline, the less likely i am to buy it off ebay. Too many chineese counterfits out there. nipper
  7. I did hit a pedestrian myself (well he hit me) and they impounded the car and went over it with a fine tooth comb. nipper
  8. Nice to see something that validates what I have been saying. Now there is a few options to "control" the abs. One is a simple momentary push button switch. The second method, whic i am thinking of favoring is a timed latching relay. You can push a button, latch the relay, which would disable the ABS, for anywhere from .1 seconds to 1 hour, depending upon which timed latching relay you get. For more hard core off road driving you can come up with something else. nipper
  9. But the code is usually the front O2 sensor, which can affect gas mileage, and driveability. Also in this day and age, one really shouldnt be looking for ways to cheat on emission tests. nipper
  10. Many possabilities. The cam seals, Main engine seal in the front, oil pump seal. Axle boots dont have grease that travel that far.The sperator plate doesnt usually leak that bad to get on that pipe, as it is trapped by the blel housing. First thing to do is go to a self service car wash and wash the bottom of the engine. This is what a shop would do to see where the leak is coming from. Have you ever replaced the timing belt? If so how long ago. nipper
  11. i said it would "creep in a few posts earlier i said it was more of an automatic transmission issue. Stab braking is no differnt then just holding your foot all the way donw on the barke pedal with ABS. nipper
  12. In neutral in a manual tranny you dont have the "creep" problem automatics do. In neutral there is no need for the duty C to do anything (think about it).There is no torque for it to transfer. besides unless your engine braking, the brakes are in control, overpowering the driveline. Now if you manually downshift to first, then you have a 50/50 split. The only time there is a huge investigation in an accident as to how the car was equipped or modified is if there was a fatality or a pedestrian hit (or assumed to be fatality). Then the car is gone over with a fine tooth comb. Now there are ways to do it properly so no one can tell a ABS cut off switch form a fog light switch. nipper
  13. Ah this is the achillies heal of abs. You need to do down hill descents at slow speed in neutral. What happens is (automatic) in gear abs will keep pulsing the brakes, and the drivetrain keeps applying torque. The ABS gets confused and does not stop the car. Between momentum going down hill, the driveline, and the abs the car will never stop. In a manual this is when the switch would come in handy. nipper
  14. well then you can wait if you keep topping off the coolant like you have been for 60,000 miles. other then that i dont know wat to tell you. I know from the BMW boards about mini's that UK consumer law is weak when it comes to automobiles, it seems the dealers are in control. nipper
  15. Most people are under the false impression that abs will shorten thier stopping distnace. This is true on dry pavement, sort of maybe true in bad weather. The one time abs is bad, is on a loose surface, such as gravel or unpacked snow. This is when you need a switch. If you hard wire a switch, i recomend a latching relay. This way when you shut off the car it resets. What people seem to forget is the two simple rules in bad weather SLOW DOWN BRAKE SOONER and leave alot of distance between you and the car infront of you. Also test the road surface before you have to stop. Especialy if you have trraction control. Traction control can give you a flase sense of the road surface. Most people use tires spinning at start up as a measure of how slick a snow/ice covered road is. With traction control you loose alot of feedback. ABS can shorten your stopping in slick conditions as oppsed to not having abs, BUT it will not keep it as short as dry weather. It will also haelp you maintaine control. If you almost had a bad expierience with ABS, imagine what it would have been like without it. Practice with ABS in an empty lot at the first real snow to refresh yourself on what it feels like. nipper
  16. heagaskets ONLY from subaru. Flush out the radiator first, as soon as you remove it. Other wise oil + antfreeze + air = gum Also do yourslf a favor and clean out the overflow ( no one does it). nipper
  17. REPAIR! this should have been done ages ago while still under warrenty at 18,000 miles. You should still be under the extended subaru warrenty which is 100,000 miles. Go get it fixed asap. as an FYI this is an external leak, which is not as bad as in internal leak. Internals need to be fixed as soon as it is discovered otherwise you can cook the engine. nipper
  18. install a on off sitch at the ABS fuse (dont foregt you still need that fuse in line). nipper
  19. i was worried about the crank journals for the main bearings, and you cant see those untill your deep in the engine. nipper PS everything can be rebuilt, but your wallet can't.
  20. Depending upon why it seized (aside from oil loss) it may not be worth rebuilding. Under what circumstances did it seize? was it under load? nipper
  21. On subaru engines you dont need new headbolts, as they arent stretched to the point of deformation from torquing. Do you mean washers or shims? they use shims for the valve adjustment. nipper
  22. When a mfg does a design change, they do it for one of two reasons. They find that they can use a newer part number to replace an older part number, or they do an engineering change on a "poor" part. When they do this they usually recall all the parts in stock or tell the dealer and wharehouse to destroy them. On a part like this, they REALLY dont want you coming back a 2nd time. i thought there was a picture here some place of the new style HG, but i cant find one porcupine usually has all sorts of pics... nipper
  23. Not very, just swap the flywheels. I think thats all you need to do, oh and swap altenators. The Outback altenator is only 61.00 to replace, an imprezza 231.00 or something rediculous like that. Don't ask me why, i have no idea, but i do know outbacks dont like imprezza altenators (ask me how i know). nipper
  24. New gaskets are "multi layered" metal. They couldnt find one in the parts room to show you? nipper
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