nipper

Buy a 20.00 vacum gauge first and see what it does. Also check the engines grounds. What this DOES tell me is that its probabaly not valves. Get the vac gauge just to be sure. nipper

Thats a rare gem of a tranny shop. Its extreemly rare that someone with TB goes into a tranny shop and doesnt come out with a new tranny. nipper

http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm nipper

Let the debate begin The only way I would buy into the axles is if i could have the old axles off the car, then the new ones (that did vibrate) and do a study on dimensions and weights between the two. Also to personally measure the vibration with both. I dont think this one will ever get solved. The first question is, did it happen instantly after replacing the axles. Just the fact the the axles need replacement means the car has some milegae on it, which means it can be a few things. Its just a coincidence that it happens. I would also check the tranny mount. If an axle is not moving, it has no effect on the drivetrain. Now if you told me it did at a crawl, then maybe I would accept it. Blu has had a axle replaced and no vibration. nipper Now lets talk engine oil its safer hehehehe

Rear wheel bearings growl, front ones can clunk. Best way to find out is get a freind in the car and let them listen. Sometimes noises creep up on us and we dont hear them like a stranger would. Also depending upon the method of extracting the old axle, the wheel bearing may have taken a beating. Start from square one, jack up the front of the car, put it on jack stands, and start wiggling things, and turn the wheels by hand, with the wheels cut. Turn them by the axles if you can. Did you reuse the axle pin or use new ones? nipper

it can. With it being electronic they dont both work off the same drive anymore. The needle is a sepraqte circuit from the odometer. But like i siad, it depends why it failed. nipper

ALWAYS use OE HG on EJ series. Also always use OE parts that are buried in the motor, can destroy something if it fails, or is problematic. Aftermarket either reverse engineer or bet the specs on a part from OE on the first design of the part. If something is redesigned or modified by OE, they may not bother with the update, or take years to incorporate the update. There is nothing anywhere written that says aftermarket has to be supplied with specs from the factory. Just and FYI. nipper

Wheel bearing Loose caliper Loose break pads Suspension component Chinese Axles nipper

Surprsingly no. ANd besides, your at the "it cant make it worse" point if you are looking at a used tranny to get the AWD working.

er um .... SHoes? Housing??? Back away from the transmission. If your having torque steer and front wheels slipping, you have no AWD at all. Leave the screen alone. It will only cause you heartache in the long run. How did we get here from revving the engine in park anyway? nipper

Its a 97? I missed that. Go to an autozone or something and have the codes pulled. If its in limp mode thereshould be a bunch of them. Does the spedo work? When was the last time the timing belt (I think it has one) was changed? How many miles? Can be a clogged cat. Hit the cat with your hand and see if it rattles (when its cold). nipper

Sometimes the worst car at the gas station is the one the mechanic owns. After working on cars all day, you dont want to work on your own. DO the flush, its the cheapest fix there is. The next thing to try is the lucas LSD additive (its called it cant make things any worse). After that, its just a tired clutchpack. Its not something a mechanic may touch, so dont assume it was maintained, or that he even noticed it. nipper

Time to get out ye old vacume gauge. The vacume gauge is perfect to tell if there are sticking valves or an ignition issue. I'm sticking with ignition myself. Put on a vaccum gauge and tell us exactly what it is reading and what the needle is doing. nipper

and the great debate continues, at least this one is far more civil then the great oil wars. CHeck all the mounts. With your foot on the brake pedal, car in drive, give it a little gas, does the vibration go away? What engine RPM are we talking about with the AC on and in drive? nipper

*shakes head* well the sludge are oil seal leaks. nipper

SO there was some improvement. Are we sure the timing belt is on properly. Next to look at it would be vacumme leaks. Is the missfire roving or all the time? nipper

You can also be in limp mode. Since you replaced two parts at once, put the old TPS back in and see what happens. nipper

HOLD IT! you have SNOW? Im jelouse. OK nough of that. Since this is new to you, do the one thing that all subarus love. Flush the tranny. Dirty fluid will affect the actuation of the clutch pack for the AWD. Not konly can it lock it up, but it can also delay engagement. nipper

Crank sensor controls spark, cam controlls injection. I dont trust no brand replacement parts with a waste spark ignition system. Crank sensor can thorw a code, when it fails the car wont start. Thats a generic article, so i wouldnt automatically apply it to subaru, as subarus can be a little "odd". look how finicky they are with ignition parts. What specific code are you getting. There are generic codes, and codes specific to individual mfg's and engines. The codes are standardized, but not everyone uses the same methods to control emissions, ie some cars have a knock sensor or O2 for each bank of cylinders. nipper

Why did you replace the coil? If you replaced everything at the same time, reinstall the old coil. What brand is the coil? Missfire is detected by the voltage spike from the coil . These computers are really smart, much more powerful then we give them credit for, but at other times we forget that they are only tools, and tools are only as good as the person operating them. What you are seeing is a voltage breakdown as the coil heats up to a steady state temperiture, at least thats my theory. COil gets a lot hotter on the highway then just idleing around town. nipper

You need to use OE ignition wires, though magnicore seems to have a good rep. This is a typical aftermarket wire failure. Aftermarket suplliers use one common wire for almost all applications, just varying the lengths and boots as needed. Cost being the bottom line they go with the lowest comon denominator. Some use the best wire that will work with all apllications, but they cost as much as OE. How wires are tested: They spend 300 hours in an oven at 400 degrees (though it may be 500 now). They have 100,000 volts running through the wires, with the inside of the oven being the ground. If they arc any time before the 300 hours they fail. This is the bare minimal accepted test method. So as you can see they do not reflect real world conditions. This is also a set and forget test. This was fine when you only had a distributor. Now with waste spark this is no longer acceptable. The more expensive wires do more extensive testing. nipper

DUDE (god i hate that word) i said affordable light bulbs. nipper

You have a 15.9 gallon tank. I want you to do this. Get a gallon gas jug and fill it up, put it in the car. Fill the gas tank. Drive the car untill the low fuel light comes on. Keep driving, but stay on secondary roads. Let the car run out of gas. Put in that one gallon of gas, then fill it up the rest of the way. You will see it will take 15gallons ish. This way we have you on sqaure one. You will know that you have a 15.9 gallon tank of gas. There is one possability, which i have never seen fail. The tank is split in two. Subaru uses a jet pump (Siphon) to move the gas from a to b .This never fails, but there is always a chance that your the first. nipper

Thats not normal. Something is going on. The thing is that the computers are so good at what they do, they can mask a lot of issues. How many miles on the car year engine and tranny Last time the timing belt was changed. Wires and O2 should be OE, order them on line and save some money. ANother test. Car off. pump breaks 10 times. Foot on break pedal pressing brakes start car. pedal should move to floor. If it does the booster is good. nipper

Ok lets settle this and rule out one thing. Get a vacumme gauge for less then 20.00 at an autoparts store. Find a vacumme line to plug it into and tell us exactly what it does and how its doing it. The gas mileage seems a low. 19mpg is reasonable around town. Highway should be 25 plus. How many miles are on the car. A few possabilities. It may be tune up time. You may need an O2 sensor. You may have a partially clogged cat. It may be nothing at all. Replace the plugs and wires, they are due. Depending upon driving habits, every individual will get different mpg due to their driving habits. nipper