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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. If you watch here, allied tends to sell them much cheaper when they make a bunch of them at once. I can personally tell you its a very well made kit. nipper
  2. Inspect them dont just go throwing poarts at them. the one that takes the biggest beating in the tranny mount. The dogbone rubber can age and fail. nipper
  3. The car interior is all original accept what I added. I havent swapped any trim, and I bought it from the original owner. I know I paid premium for the Blu, I would have accepted Red or Green too. nipper
  4. Well he would have to go with a hydraulic clutch, due to subarus clutch arangement. If he sticks with the VW, he can use the VW clutch. I didnt even think about using the subframe, stupid me. nipper
  5. Its thin because it doesnt do a lot of work. It just keeps the engine from going through the radiator. Check other mounts too. Another possability is a cracked flex plate, but you would here that as a ting-ting-ting at idle. nipper
  6. Sounds like a good old fashioned tune up (OE wires and OE recomended plugs) will fix the problem. nipper
  7. When my O2 sensor went bad, a code reader couldnt read the code either, and wouldnt clear it. This happnes sometimes. Disconnect the battery clear the code then next time it comes on read it. How many miles ? nipper
  8. For you picture whores :-p This si what it looks like now Open the cup holder, and you cant see the gauges Open the cup holder with the CB Here is all the rim off the center of the dash and the guts of the JDM gauges nipper
  9. I can take a picture of what it looks like now, but it seems i can get the trim peices from a board member. If I can, then I am going to swap things around. nipper
  10. Check the dogbone motor mount under the hood (torque rod it hink). It mounts where the dashboard would be on the firewall. If thats shot it can do what you have described. nipper
  11. Yes i am talking to myself. Ok the stereo is at the bottom DIN. i had to move the steering wheel controls for better reception but it looks good there. So it will stay. The gauges are much better higher, b ut the cup holder hides them. So that makes life a little easier. I will study moving the HVAC controls to the top dins, and the gauges to the din location. Part of the gauge issue is 46yo eyes and 2" gauges. I MAY be convinced to give the JDM gauges for quality slightly bigger gauges. hehehe nipper
  12. Its a common problem in that year, but its usually foresters. Remove the cluster, take the gauges apart (really easy) and clean the contatcs. Do a search here on spedometer and you should find lots of info. nipper
  13. Brake grease There are a couple of things that you can do here. Some brake pads just squeel more then others. If the rotor surface is good, and you've checked the back of the pads, and look for dirt, it may pay just to go to a differnt brand of pads. I have a set of ceramic pads from Autzone, that have incredible braking power, but at low speed sounds lik an electric motor whine. In the spring I may change them if it doesnt go away. the only time i notice it is in parking garages, or on a Manhatten street. nipper
  14. Sears got ion trouble for cutting boots. if she could get a mechanical freind to look at the boots to see if the cuts are clean, or slightly jagged. nipper
  15. I am not sure i can do what i want to do. To put the control panel on the bottom would require trimming away a lot of the plastic, to where there is 1/8 of an inch of material between the din and the ash tray. I know its just cosmetic. I wish i had another one to practice with first to see if it would work. I also have to make the din wider. Mounting it is easily dealt with. I may just swap the radio and gauges first and see how that works out. That will buy me time to find another trim panel to experiment with. I have been watching for another wood trim panel but havent seen any. I am begninig to thik mine is rare. nipper
  16. I always get suspicous about CV boots that magically fail in groups. Sears got in trouble for this a while ago. nipper
  17. Dont you have a temp inspection sticker or something like that. Did they stop the inspection at the emissions, or did they do the mechanical first (that way you know the car is solid). Depdning upon your state rules, you can get the car inspected if your going to be in state at another station close to your destination. What your inspector said is true. I've been told that if your out of state and your inspection expires, you shouldnt get a ticket while on the road. If you get one on your way home, you have 24 hrs to get one upon reentering the state. If you get a ticket in those 24 hrs, you just need to prove you were out of state prior to the ticket (gas receipt, toll reciept etc). http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Reading.pdf nipper I've odten wondered about this too, so I just get my car inspected before i Leave. There is no law sayiong you cant get a car inspected many months earlier then the sticker says.
  18. That gave me a headache. There is a built in retarder, but its not under the hood of that car. nipper
  19. Well one nice thing about the sooby controls, they are simple, and i have them basically memorized. I just wish i had a radio din trim peice to work with first. I will try jusyt angling up the guages first, but i dont think i will get a teep enough angle. The gauges are metric, so there isnt a huge amount of sweep on the oil pressure. I think i also figured out how to wire the bulbs so that they dimm properly nipper
  20. Ball joint Tie rod end Strut bearing (whatever toyota calls the bearing on top of the strut) 1995 Its old enough to need a balljoint or three. Its not a CV joint if the car creeks when standing still, or the creek doesnt change with speed (left trun vs right turn. This needs to be looked at sooner then later. loosing a balljoint on the road is not fun. nipper
  21. After staring and staring at Blus dashboard realizing everythig is in the wrong place. The heater controls (simple design) are mounted high. The stero is in the top of the double din, and the JDM gauges is in the bottom din. The stero will stay where it is. As nice as it would be to move it to the heater controls, there is not enough depth there. ONe option is to angle up the JDM gauges. They are well lit, almost to well lit, so hard to read at night being so low (2" dia). I will fiddle with that and see what that does. Next choice was to mount the stereo at the lowest din, but it is already hard enough to read as it is sometimes. And now with the blutooth going through the stero, i want to see the caller ID. Plan C. Move the heater panle to the bottom DIN, and the gauges to where the heater contol panel is. I would like to have another DIN trim panel to experiment with (anyone) before I cut up my hard-to-find woodgrained panel. I know the harness has to be extended ( alittle wire and solder does wonders). The temp control cable shoul be a non issue. Mounting the panel may be a little difficult. I need a panel made from plastic for the JDM gauges, or some other metod to mount the gauge panel. Luckily it looks really easy to do it. Am i missing anything? Does anyone have the DIN radio trim panel they can spare? thanks nipper
  22. Outback struts would be your best bet. Also proper set of 4 snow tires. nipper
  23. Check all the engine grounds. COuld be a loose ground that is affected by the slight geometry change of truning the wheel. When the wheel is turned (left or rigt) does it crank or no crank. Turn it full lock, make not of the steering wheel angle where it wont start. If it is in the column, it should not start again if you tunr the wheel 360 degrees to the same position. Next time it wont start (assuming no crank) put the gear selector in neutral (if a automatic). If its a manualrun the car through the gears then put it in neutral and try. Another thing to try is with the car in gear rock the car a bit, then try to start it normally. I know im fishing a bit here, but bare with me. nipper
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