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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. Check the drive shaft, the carrier bearing, and the universals. How many miles on the car? nipper
  2. Even the non sale price seems low. It is most likely plug and play, and at 10 years old most likely wont be available anymore. Give them a call and ask. If it was me I would grab it, even if it needed other parts. nipper
  3. Yes at the very least Jack up one tire and a tire and pull each wheel. Inspect the wheel bearings, break calipers and pads. It can be a stuck caliper. Its too soon for a issue with universal joints. Also check the exhaust donuts. nipper
  4. You cant just go by the balance sheet. Ford did improve jag, this is a well known fact amoung car enthusiests. They replaced all the lucas wiring and fixed the QA issues. There is a joke going around that Jag owners didint like fords fixes for jag, since they were lonley and never got to see there buddies at the dealership anymore. They made Jag affordable at the base level. Jag had pretty decent sales. Ford did realize the one mistake they made, which was sharing a platform with the Taurus, They started correcting this issue when they realized they have to sell Jag. In the long run they may keep Jag. Jag is prbbly the best its ever been as far as reliabilty. Just ford can not afford a premire luxury car. For the record Ford can't sell Volvo either. They recently aproached Volvo AB (i think its AB, the people who build trucks)) about buying Volvo BAck, and they said they werent interested. nipper
  5. The recall was later. Do a search here, as this comes up from time to time. nipper
  6. I'm curious. Whats the altenator output look like with everything on at 2000rpm. I just went through three altenators with blu. I finally got pissed and went to a online supllier, bought one from Subaru, and all my alt issues went away. Seems the outback has a cheap alt (maybe forester does too) and the imp is $$$$, so they tend to sell you the imp. in the aftermarket. nipper
  7. If your lonly, buy a Jag. You'll make a lot of new freinds. The ones at the dealership wating room, your banks loan officer for buying replacement parts. Remeber some jags are just ford Tauruses in a tuxedo. nipper
  8. Your a sick sick sick man:rolleyes: Though its interesting how everyone in florida gets the murry joke with the proper accent. nipper
  9. Your a sick sick sick man:rolleyes: Though its interesting how everyone in florida gets the murry joke with the proper accent. nipper
  10. HG repair is only as good as the shop that repairs it. Even the best parts certified bullit proof from NASA are useless if poorly installed. Never heard of a rack going bad this early. Define "bad" Torque bind can be from driving on an underinflated tire. Even I have been caught off guard by a low tire, that didnt look all that low. No one checks thier tire pressure as much as they should. I've gotten in the habit of once a week. The boot, subaru has a thicker replacement boot. nipper
  11. I DO I DO I DO!! Its mounted on the bracket with the fuel pump/sender in the tank. It looks like a little bullit. This sounds like its an electrical failure of some kind, as that sensor is indistructable. There should be an aces panel in the trunk. Remove that and underneath it will be the cover for the fuel pump assembly. Chekc all the electrical connections, they may just be dirty. The senders are low current, thats whay they may not work and the fuel pump still does (unless the fuel pump is external, I dont remeber on this year). nipper
  12. So if you pop the car in neutral at 40 mph and rev the engine, the vibration changes? nipper
  13. Only use subaru wires in a subaru. Soobys dont like that. This COULD have something to do with it, but either way get rid of the aftermarket wires and get OE. Next check for ground loops, that can cause it too. You may be hearing alt noise instead of Ignition. nipper
  14. In a word, yes. The car is not meant to be driven this way, because timing is affected, along with other things. nipper
  15. If you like the heading "I cant make it any worse", look at the park switch on the wiper motor itself. The intermittent timer sends a short pulse of power to get the motor off the park switch. After that the park circuit finishes the cycle. When the wiper is on, the switch feeds constant power to the wiper motor, then when you switch it off, the park switch takes over. The park switch is sticking at the very first 1/2 inch of travel. nipper
  16. Its possible but doubtful, as it would be running down the side of the valve cover. It has to get over the lip of the spark plug seat. Also your overlooking ont thing, that extra oil would go up in the compression gauge. It would be extreemly noticble in the hose, and when you release the pressure. Also that would be a few ounces of oil, so its highly improbable. nice try though nipper
  17. our tranny will be fine. If anything the wheel bearing and hub MAY take a beating from the bad CV joint. Just inspect them closely when you replace the axle. nipper
  18. That might raise the numbers, might not (if the rings are good), and wouldnt bring it over 200psi. nipper
  19. Boxer engines are extreemly smooth running by thier nature. Vibration is a bad thing. A few questions Does the vibration change with gear selection road speed engine rpm Braking Turning Is it there when you put the car in neutral and coast Is it there when you press the clutch in Find a dead straight road, Put the car in 4wd high, is it there. This is something you can do quickly. Get under the car and inspect the universal joints and carrier bearing in the driveshaft. There should be no play in the x or y direction of the universals, and no play in the carrier bearing. As these cars get miles on them (and age) the universals may go bad. They can drive you nuts trying to find the source of a vibration, so we will check that first. nipper
  20. yup, its a three speed automatic with a small engine. Can you say buzzbomb? nipper
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