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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. Subaru Rod knock will come and go at first, then once it is there constantly, its only a matter of time before life gets really exciting for 10 seconds. nipper
  2. Get a vacume gauge and tell us what that reads and what the neelde does. I still thjink that you need to replace the idlers and tensioner. You cants always tell that they are good without a load on them Also let us know if the valve timing jumped again. It is possible that the belt is damaged and its jumping. nipper
  3. Cruchfeild will give you the exact dimension and some recomendations. nipper
  4. Which leads to the question ... Did you have all four spark plugs out when you did the compression test. nipper
  5. The headgasket issue has just started, so i doubt the engine is cooked. Before you do anything go to the NHTSA web site and look up the recalls for this car. I am not sure if there is a MC issue or not. Its unusla for a MC to go on a sooby this young. The delay in shifting, nothing you can do about it. Good news is that it doesnt hurt anything. Its either a leaky check valve inside the tranny, or a seal or a pump. A lot of them from this year do it, and so far it seems that none of them are getting any worse. How many miles are on the car. nipper
  6. No they arent, check again. The only way you get over 180psi on this engine is if a cam is out of time by a tooth. And since both high numbers are on the same bank, thats where the issue is. Forget leakdown. What are the numbers wet vs dry. Also you didnt say, how old are the timing belts. nipper
  7. So i did hear rod knock. Oil pressure that low, everything else your saying, the engine is toasted. you can do a compression test, but with oil pressure that low, the noises i heard.... bad things. bad. nipper
  8. Timing belt off a tooth. The 2-4 is on the same side of the engine. When was the last time you did a timing belt change. nipper
  9. I dont see anything wrong here. Are you using a real gauge, preferably mechanical? 10-15 at idle is actually very good. As the oil warms up it thins out. As it thinks out the pressure will be lower. If you ever get to see it in really cold weather, It can actually peg the gauge. nipper
  10. Subaru wires and proper spark plugs? Spray the engine with a water bottle while its running, in the evening. Look for stray voltages (blue sparks) especially around the coil towers. The next possability is a leaking injector. Right now I think its going to be a coil issue. What was done when the HG was replaced. nipper
  11. is that what he is worried about? Then thats normal. I hate puzzle games "guess whats wrong" :-p nipper
  12. Thats ok. The differnential is a mechanical computer. It always splits the rotational speed 50/50 between wheels. It doesnt care which one is which. Now with the newer computer controlled AWD with the integrated traction control, you cant even do this. But DO get another pair of tires when you can. nipper
  13. Rust. Especially the front frame rails. Rust kills more soobies then any other cause. nipper
  14. I dont like to recomend this, but you can put the two on the same side of the car. Also keep in mind that a tired of one size from Goodyear is not exactly the same size from Firestone. Go and measure your tires and see what they really are. You MAY get away with it, but remeber, no one has an unlisted number when it comes time for murphy to call. nipper
  15. WHat exaclty is wrong, as its rare for a pump to go bad. You can replace just the pump, and that you can get off ebay. I think the delaer is selling you the whole shebang. WHat is worng with the fuel sender? nipper
  16. See now i didnt know it had sound. We make a fine pair. Towards the end i heard what sounded like a rod knock, but its so hard to tell with directional mikes on video cameras. Remove one spark plug wire at a time and see if the sound changes at all. If it does its rod knock. nipper
  17. i looked at the video, i dont see anything wrong, aside from that car needs to be in my driveway nipper
  18. The blower motor is the last thig in the circuit. The first is the blower motor relay, then the speed switch, then the resistor block, then the motor. It can be a couple of things. The first is the realy. The most likely is that the brush in the blower motor got stuck. This means that you will need a blower motor. Next time it happens check across the blower motor for continuity. Next hit the blower motor hard with your hand, and check again. If this is what it is, it will happen again. It means the brushes are at the end of thier lives. nipper
  19. What are we looking at? Picture doesnt look good quality wise nipper
  20. COOKIE! Such a pessamist. Blu just got his first ball joint at 210,000 miles nipper
  21. Spark plug cables are far more complicated then what your measuring. If you have a mechanical distrubutor it really doesnt make that much differnce, as your talking 100,000 volts. If you have a waste spark system, the two wires on either side of the coil should balance. I hope you ordered Subaru wires. Wires are affected by temperiture, how they interact with other wires, and engine load. None of those you can measure with a meter. I think you have a bigger problem. There really should be no oil in the sparkplug. The plug is oil fouling on decceleration. Burning oil on acceleration is bad valaves, on decceleration its rings. You need to do a compresion test and see whats going on inside the engine. You need to do it both wet and dry. A bad spark plug wire wont cause what your seeing. A bad plug wire would/might cause a miss under load or damp conditions. Put the old wire back on and get a compression test done. nipper
  22. I may have the factory wiring diagram, i'll look later today. nipper
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