nipper

Well lets back up a bit, make sure the tire is tight. It is possible that a bad axle was counteracting the vibration that was there before. Vibrations are interesting things. Can be a loose nut (not properly tightened) can be a bad tire, can be a warped rotor. nipper

And lets not forget that some of that dirt ends up in the crankase oil. nipper

the 1991 is an OBDI and the other is an OBDII. You need to keep looking for an OBDII 2.2L as it will make your life much easier. There are plenty of 2.2's around, and a fairly straightforward swap. nipper

http://home.stny.rr.com/jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm the one i was really looking for. nipper

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm what i was looking for nipper

Nissan and subaru do use the same suplliers, so i am not surprised. nipper

yes but watch the application year. nipper

Yes but it's not pretty or cool looking. Either one of those is good for a 15 hp increase, 20 if it comes in a color nipper

This sounds all wrong. What caused you to look into this to begin with. Also it being a 2005 is it still under warrenty? The belts rarely give out before 105,000 miles, they might give out at 105,100 miles but never before. nipper

Check the charging circuit first. Next most likely candiate is you have a slightly eroded wheel sensor that is giving a false signal. The sensors should be perfectly cylindrical in shape. Also they may be covered with debree. nipper

I have been here and done this. The code is not stored for a long time. the car cant tell if you replaced the faulty sensor or if its just intermittent. After a number of cycles it will erase the fault. nipper

i would love too, but i dont know how right now. (bad morning, E.R at the wee hours, serious pain meds) so someone else fell free. i wont mind. Pictures are coming, they just have to wait till i got over this health hiccup. nipper

That i can't tell you, because i had other things done at the same time. It's not too hard to figure out though, as there arent many parts other then the Allied kit. nipper

I dont know if you need a brake switch and a clutch switch. nipper

Outback Gen 2 I am posting this for anyone who does an allied lift kit in the future. The allied instructions are fine, but there other details that need to be filled in. Before you start if its an automatic, insepect the shifter cable. Try to brake the adjusting bolts loose. If it wont budge, order a new one. Do this before the build, otherwise you will come to a screaming halt waiting for the part. If its really stubborn you may need to repair the bracket. You will need camber adjustment bolts, available at Tire Rack. You need the 3-4 degree bolts, as this will give you lots of room for adjustment. 2 Radiator hoses, as the sooby ones are too short. The fuel line, return line and vapor line all need to be extended, otherwise there will be too much stress on the lines. The Charcoal canister line and the vacume (or vent) line also need to be extended, same reasons. Make sure there is slack in the harnesses, especially if you have added anything on your own. You can keep the factory air (intake) boxes. There is a bracket that the box over the engine bolts to. This bracket also has a clamp for an AC line. You will remove this bracket, as it can not support the air box anymore. The airbox will be at an angle and be a little bit of a tight fit, but nothing is harmed. You can loose the AC clamp. The accessory drive belt guard for the PS pump ( if you decide to keep it and you should) needs to have 2-3 inches trimmed off the front edge to clear the radiator fan bracket. It doesnt hit, but it really does look too close to be comfortable. The dogbone motor mount (under the air box) needs to be lengthened, or replaced with a suitable longer one. The rear sway bar is going to be flipped down if it is left as is. The rear radius bars need to be swaped, this will almost bring the sway bar back to its proper height and function. This is not mandatory. The factory exhaust system may bang against the transmission subframe. This is easily correctable by removing one of the rubber donut muffler supports at the back of the car. This takes a tremendous amount of stress off the exhaust system. On my car the heat sheilds were lowered with standoffs to the proper height. Watch the 2nd O2 sensor. After the car is assembled, the steering is going to feel like its binding. This will go away as the universal joints wear in. Be sure to grease them with lithium grease. If there is a driveline vibration (mild) the carrier bearing may need to be shimmed with a few washers. I would STRONGLY recomend installing new struts at this time. If you have a tired strut (murphies law they never blow as a set) with the additional height handling can be interesting. Get used to how the car handles now (it doesnt change too much). For some odd reason the car seems a little more agresive nipper

Your worst enemy, a bored onstar employee nipper

Ford sort of had the right idea with the Pinto. They installed a splashguard between the tank and the muffler. This basically was instant revenge on the car that hit the pinto, as this is where the ensuing flame was thrown. nipper

my speling isnt great, but my typing is the problem. Nerve damage from the car accident. Its coming back but its at that "going to get worse before it gets better" point. I know some mfgs are also using explosives on the hood too. If people would take personal responsability and just learn how to crosss the street this wouldnt be needed. We have two stretches of raod here that are very bloody. One they blamed the drivers of the cars and started strict enforcement. They studied all the accidents and found out 95% of them were the pedestrians fault. Yet they still decided to make driving miserable. Another section where 100% of the problem is the pedestrians (highway no intersections) they are letting traffic be. You cant protect people from themselves if they are going to do stupid things. I hit a pedestrian once, horrible horrible thing. Technically he hit me. All the damage was behind the drivers side front wheel and the windsheild pillar. He ran across (again) a busy 6 lane road, and against the light (two cops saw the accident). Accident was 100% his fault yet he still went after my insurance company. I was so ticked, I didnt want them to settle. I wonder how long before mandatory knee pads with airbags in them. nipper

OBD II has no such thing. ALso the code woll reset itself if the puter finds no good reason for keeping the CEL on. You can try to read the code, but i doubt its there nipper

As sure as the sun rises everyday. Tstats dont work backwards. nipper

You can buy them if your a certified recycler. The platnum (and other rare metals) are worth money. nipper

My money is on the front O2 sensor. The timing is right, and so are the symptons. It's getting old, and lazy in response. I usually do it at the same time i do a tune up after 100,000 miles. It will come back. May be a while, but it will. The code is gone now, so i am not going to recomend a pulling of the codes. nipper

year and mileage please

Also the donut is an emergncy tire only. Its not meant for over 60-65 mph for a couple of reasons, one is the tire, the other is to protect the drivetrain. You are supposed to get your tire fixed at the soonest possible moment, not 300 miles later nipper

"Speed ratings are determined by indoor laboratory testing methods which measure high speed tire durability under controlled test conditions. These test procedures do not take into account underinflation, tire damage, vehicle characteristics, or road conditions which can lead to sudden tire failure or loss of vehicle control at much lower speeds than indicated by the tire’s speed rating. The validity of using speed rated tires in the U.S. is based on the idea that the tire’s top speed capability must at least equal the vehicle’s top speed capability, since it cannot be assumed that the driver will always observe the speed limit. Recently the speed rating is being referred to as the “performance rating” of the tire, since the higher speed rated tires generally offer improved handling and maneuverability compared to lower speed rated tires." http://mydoblo.wordpress.com/2007/07/01/understanding-my-tires/ As much as i hate to quote Tv shows (TopGear) but more then once when driving a supercar they give the time fuel consumption in gallons per minute, then usually say if you could maintain the speed, the tires would blow at a sustained speed, but it usually doesnt matter as you would run out of gas first. What a cool way to run out of gas nipper