Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

nipper

Members
  • Posts

    18629
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    25

Everything posted by nipper

  1. BAD BAD BAD Its the quickest way to guarentee that you need to spend 800 or 1200 dollars later. By two tires, put one on each axle, thats the best solution. physically measure the old tires against the new and maybe you can luck out, or find a used tire shop and have them measure and match. If you have an automatic put the fwd fuse in. nipper
  2. suzuki came first, but in this country it was sold second
  3. both. The sway bar is usually parallele to the road, not at a right angle to it. nipper
  4. Its banging against a few things, and i do feel more tail sway in the car. Its not as tight as it should be. I dont like moving the mounts either. I think I found a plan c. Getting the aluminum C mounts (99.00) and having them cut and extended by 2.5 inches to orient things properly. nipper
  5. The only place there may be one, or that I heard of, you have to be upside down. Someone on the Outback list in Austrailia had one installed at the dealer to keep his warrenty valid. On this side of the world it isnt going to happen. nipper
  6. Got under the car today and did some poking around. Anyone who orders a kit from Allied (BTW Albie is a blast to talk to) needs to tell them if its a stick or auto. Autos require two more spacers and the required bolts. Was a fun phone call, always comforting to hear "your drivng like THAT?!?!" Albie is sending me the two extra spacers. One noise was the exhaust came off a hanger. That seems to have cured one thunk (or possibly two). The exhaust was banging against the sway bar. The sway bar is located in such a way that it is sort of useless. So far there are two solutions. Drop the sway bar brackets by one inch. Second one is a 206.00 solution http://www.poltec.us/products/subaru/suspension/rear_end_links/1a-df015.htm I already talked to them and the extra 25.00 is to modify length of the threads. Surprisingly there is a quick turn around on this. I am up for any suggestions from anyone. I havent been able to inspect the carrier universal joints yet, thats tomorrow. nipper
  7. Check local laws and see how much tint is allowed. Too much tint, and get in the wrong neighboorhood and you can be a cop magnet. nipper
  8. Rotors. Blu would do the same thing. I replaced the rotors and all is well. nipper
  9. I am going through the altenator thing with Blu. Seems that there are some marginal altenators out there, so thats why I am buying the next one from subaru (and waiting for it now). I too lust after the evil empire, its a sweet looking car. But remeber Jeep comes up rather poorly in the reliabilty ratings, and it wont save you any gas. nipper
  10. ABS = dying altenator ABS + brake = impeding doom ABS + Brake + Battery = pull over NOW Get your charging system load tested. Make sure they test it at 2000 RPM with everything on in the car. nipper
  11. I'm not following your resoning. The way a battery usually dies is that the plates inside the battery shed enough material from charge/discharge that the plates short out. This is why optimum dry cells are superior to wet cells. This makes the battery into a resistor, which can load up the altenator, or cause the battery to self discharge, or worse case damage the alt. over 2000 rpm its all altenator. Under 2000 rpm it can be all altenaotr, or altenaotr - battery mix. It depends on what the load is and what the car is doing at the time. This is why when your in a catalysmic traffic jam in the summer, the first cars with thier hoods up are usually luxury cars. AC on full, all the gizmos running and the car is just ideling. This will kil the battery in a HUGE jam. Just reving the car up a bit keeps the battery charged. The highest load on the car is when everything is on, your in gear (auto) and your foot is on the brake pedal. Manuals are a little bit better with this. nipper
  12. Snap it up at that price. I couldnt understand the huge cost differnce either. Oddly Autozone wanted a hell of a lot more for a rebuild. nipper
  13. Defrost will turn the AC comprssor on for a short time to lubricate the compressor (if I remember correctly). The IAC motor is what kicks up the engine rpm when a load comes on the engine. Unless its more then a few 100 rpm i wouldnt worry about it. If it is more it can be a dirty IAC valve. nipper
  14. model mileage and year would be nice. A few things can clog a radiator. One is using tap water, another is the wrong coolant, too much stop leak, oil or tranny fluid contamination, physical damage.... nipper
  15. Subaru rebuilt unit. Yeah i couldnt beleive the price either, but thats what they said on the phone, so i said gimmie.... https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/ Jamies site has it too, just i dont have her link handy. nipper
  16. This is the problem im having with a 1997 .. so dont feel bad. nipper
  17. On a MC its usually safer to buy a rebuilt unit then doing it yourself. nipper
  18. The oil seperator plate (the plastic thingy) if it hasnt been replaced. They leak like sieves. The replacment is a metal part. nipper
  19. Its a Headgasket. No engine is immune from HG's, just the 2.5's are more likelyto blow one then the 2.2L. Bubbles are a dead give away. nipper
  20. PS . Make sure all the tires match Drive the car in a tight circle. With an auto on level ground it should be able to do it with no throttle or very little throttle. It should do it in a smooth motion. Check the condition of the tranny fluid. nipper
  21. If it was a shoddy repair, it would have gone poof already. I would be more concerned about torque bind then a head gasket at this point. nipper
  22. I think I know why they keep missing the problem. I stayed in NJ overnight, and it got down to 58 degrees. I started blu up and he was putting out 13.2 volts (still a little low but the highest i've seen in a while). 295 was a 500 foot drive to the on ramp. As the car wrmed up, I noticed the voltage dropped. Eventually It went down to its 12.5-12.8 where its been sitting. As the Alt heats up it looses output. I am planning on chainging the battery cables, and am wating for the Alt from Subaru. The reason my shop kept missing it was because they were testing it cold. nipper
×
×
  • Create New...