nipper

Looking at pics i know whats wrong with the air box. It cant be bolted down anymore. SO going with a hose or modifying the box is an aoption. I havent gotten my car yet (still waiting on the shift cable). nipper

many many many posts on this here and on the net. Usually it involves sanding, polishing then sealing the lense. DO a search here and on google. nipper

First we need codes, and secondly i wouldnt be surprised if the car needs a tuneup. If it's over 100,000 miles, its due, and that would give us a good baseline to work with. nipper

Yes this can burn something up, it can fry the battery , burn out bulbs damage electronics. You need an altenator. nipper

well you will need a used rack if its leaking from the ends. The cam seals timing belt water pump should all be done at the same time. Either one doesnt require a sooby specialist, its straight forward. nipper

Remove radiator cap. top off radiator. Start car. Wait for the car to spit up (this will be the thermostat opening) Top off radiator with car running. Look for bubbles. There should be NO bubbles (well maybe a stary one, but even then i would be suspicous). Radiator cap malfunctioning can cause the little bubbles as the trapped air gets pushed out. If you had a bad HG there would be alot of messey bubbles. Get a cap, either way you need to replace it http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system7.htm nipper

You do know that you need to use some sort of adapters to install the sending units. The oil pressure sender is easy enough, thats just a tee fitting. The water temp sesnor someone ealse will chime in on. nipper

define pretty bad. You will need to do an oilchange also once its all together. nipper

Caps can be from anywhere, i have yet to hear of anyone screwing one up, but 90% of them seem to be stant (which is good) nipper

Yes a cap can make that much of a difference. Since you have really good heat, i am 98% sure you dont have a HG issue. Usually when its a HG issue, you loose your heat. If it was a blown HG, the bubble would be constant and steady, if not violent. Try the cap first. nipper

Folks your forgetting KISS, I dont see anywhere anyone saying anything about the radiator cap. Replace that first. a HG is not going to care if the car is going uphill or not. Double and triple check for air bubbles. I would replace the Tstat with a new one from subaru. It may not be opnening up far enough or fast enough. Inspect the radiator physicaly to make sure the fins arent blocked and are in good shape. What level is the overflow tank at? When the car gets hot do you get heat? I am not convinced its a HG, yet. nipper

Just remember two things, the first is you get what you pay for. Lowest price means low quality gauges. Secondly ebay is not always the cheapest place to get thing. SHop around and you may do better. Personally I would stick with name brand gauges. nipper

You need OE headaskets. Buy them from anyone else and you may get old stock or worse. nipper

Thats over 20 years ago. I had a 69 rambler (in 1981) flushed and it went to hell. That was a borg warner tranny. Thats why it no longer applies, materials have changed many many times since then, along with the removal of many parts from the transmission that used to be affected by flushing. NEVER use any kind of flush additive, its a good way of ensuring something will go wrong. nipper

I should have added a note that it depends upon your oil change cycle. As long as fresh fluid gets in the tranny somehow every 36/3 years its all good nipper

What are thge other numbers? do you have wet and dry numbers? Throw on a cacum gauge and tell us how much the needle is deflecting then we can tell you more. If the valve is burnt just drive it. If its bent (which i doubt) it can damage the seat. nipper

I havent gotten Blu back yet. There is one nail biter right now, the shift cable. The original one (210,000 miles) snapped when they tried to make it work. They had to order a new one and they should have it today. That only leaves the wheel alignment, where i might have to get camber bolts. I haven t received a phone call, and they said that they would align it on last monday, so no news is good news. nipper

Thats an old wives tail which no longer applies to computer controlled trannies. one way is every oil change do a drain and fill. another way is to drain, fill, start, go through the gears, and repeate 3-4 times. nipper

Recalls folow the car, not the owner. If there is a recall on the car and it hasnt been fixed, you can stil get it fixed. The NTSB website has all the recalls. nipper

Radiator and tranny ever three years. There is no contreversy here on those points, we swear by it. Brake fluid at every front pad change. Subarus intervals for brake fluid are way too short. nipper

Ive been annoyed by that, especially since Blu is top of the line for his year. Anyone know what years interchange as these seem to be hard to find. nipper

How do you tell a bad cat? They just look at you like they own the place.. hehehehe Well somone had to say it nipper

I dont have all your answers but Pressure plate location doesnt matter on a new pressure plate. Tighten the bolts in a star pettern. Yes you need valve seals, and do both heads not just the one, otherwise its possible to cause the engine to run rough. replace the cam seals main seals, re seal the oil pump, replace the tensioner and idler and belt, new waterpump. Do this all with the engine out its much easier. Put in a set of plugs too. Also a new thermostat. Get the HG only from subaru.` IN aluminum engines you can reuse the bolts. Yes the head needs to be checked by the machine shop. The finish on the nead is extreemly important to a good seal, do what the machine shop recomends. Me i would refinish them. Look into the price of a refinished flywheel vs replacement. Sometimes soobies are touchy about having the flywheel cut. DOnt go cheap on the clutch you will regret it. nipper

No you didnt hurt anything. When you get a steady flashing CEL then you need to get it checked asap. FIrst thing to do is disconnect the TPS sensor then reconnect it. If the contacts are dirty, just that is enough to clean them. TPS are not a common code to come up, so I would have faith in that code. What it is saying That at X conditions the ecu should be getting Y input from the TPS. It is not seeing it all the time, so its giving a code. Single codes are fairly straight forward. Have them clear the code, do the unplug trick, and wait. If the CEL comes back have them scan it again. Since there is no driveability issue right now we can take our time. nipper

I got mine from Autozone, the middle brand. I want to see how they work out, but am already impressed with the feel. nipper