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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. You can get 105K out of them 99.9% of the time. Premature failiure is usually because people didnt replace the idler and temsioner at the timing belt change. nipper
  2. Replace the rotors then get back to us. Blu did the same thing at 75-50 and it was so bad it was almost scary. Nice new rotors and ceramic pads, problem went away. nipper
  3. CEL in OBD I cars esepcially american ones that used annoying diagnostics is not as good a tool as obdII. Check the injectors when the car is hot to see if they are shorted to ground internally. A electrical fault may not show up cold. nipper
  4. Start at the battery and altenator. Check and clean the cables. NExt check the main fuse blocks under the hood. Shake wire harnesses to see if you can reproduce it. Check the grounds. nipper
  5. hehehe i always wondered where Justys came from nipper
  6. yup, nothing here about taking the car apart nipper
  7. Thinking more, maybe a shorted injector? i am assuming there is a common feed to the injectors, and they low side of the injectors go to the module or ecu? look for what is common to both sides. removing one injector power from either side smooths it out. This make me think its electrical. Does it matter which plug you pull off. Removing a spark plug wire, does the same thing happen? If not, i would look at the FI electrical, as opposed to a sensor nipper
  8. bad injectors causing it to run rich and flood at idle ? nipper
  9. And i wonder why im having anxiety attacks two years after my major car accident while driving lucky luck pedestrian nipper
  10. Ask him who replaced the transmission, There are fix kits out there that solve the problem. at 10,000 miles its is usuable by installing an inline filter and chainging the filter at the next oilchange (see how full it is). Also the cooler would be a very good idea. pretty car. nipper
  11. i got my rotors from autozone at 37.00 each, so 45.00 isnt to bad. My rotors said made in canada, i dont like chinese rotors. One bolt will allow the caliper to swing up. The two larger ones to replace the rotor. Rotors will either fall off, or you need an 8mm bolt to remove them by using the holes in the hub of the rotor (works really well). nipper
  12. Actually its the filter thats all important. Cooler is ok, but the problem is the torque converter clutch sheds material and clogs up the factory cooler. At this mileage if its AWD i seriosuly doubt it still has the original tranny. If its 2 wd they didnt suffer from the same issues. nipper
  13. I used a 1/2 drive for mine and a can of liquid wrench. Wd40 wont penetrate, so you need liquid wrench or something like it. I also found it easier to turn the wheels to get easier axcess to the bolts. WHy are you removing the calipers? YOu just need to remove the lower bolt if your just doing pads. nipper
  14. Doesnt that require the muffler bearing upgrade? nipper
  15. There are many many GM coolant issues that are being traced back the to coolant themsleves. Some think (you think subaru is tough to get info from try GM) that the coolant is actually causing the gaskets to leak. Dont use anything GM. Thankfuly subaru still uses nice standard old-fashioned off the shelf coolant. nipper
  16. There always has to be one problem child Check all the mounts. Thats a pretty big bend for a tranny that dropped "a little" . i hear the grand canyon is a little hole in the ground :-p nipper
  17. Percentage is 15-20 % from real world failures. Subaru wont admit to any number. The higher end seems to be in germany where they like to drive hard and fast. No recall just an extented warrenty on phase II engines. If you have under 100,000 and a good dealer to back you up you can usually get it for free even if your not technically under the extented warrenty. You need to use the subaru additive to protect yourself in phase II engines if you wish to make a future warrenty claim. SUbaru only offers the newest and (fixed) design of the head gaskets. Some here have gotten after market HG just to discover (the hard way) that they were old stock, not the newest. In defense of subaru, and other mfgs, the head gasket is the hardest part of the engine to design. Its amazing how many opposit forces and temperitures it has to deal with all at the same time. There is no accelerated life testing on a Head gasket, unlike other parts of the car. Neons have a 100% failure rate at about 60,000 miles. Almost all mfgs have or had one engine with a bad head gasket design. The present design should hold up well untill there is another emission standard change, then the learning curve starts all over again. nipper
  18. And dont use it on dry paved roads. That delay and bang is the driveline wound up due to missmatched tires. google torque bind for a good explination. DOnt search it here, as you will get lots of automtaic new gen hits. nipper
  19. the only other thing i can think of is a bad knock sensor or sticking valves. Throw a vacume gauge on the car and let us know what it reads and what the needle is doing nipper
  20. Well you can also service your cooling system when its called for. There are a few things to help avoid it, new radiator cap, new T stat, flush the system and fresh antifreeze. Change the waterpump with every timing belt. And learn to scan your dash so you read the temp gauge regularly. nipper
  21. Really expensive windsheild. Solid engine though. And it seems like the electronic climate control is trouble free. nipper
  22. take off a plug wire and check for spark. Thats first. i dont remeber if this thing had a belt or not, its possible the timing belt jumped. Sudden stall and no restart is usually a timing issue. nipper
  23. blown head gasket or cracked head? nipper
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