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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. Subarus spark plug interval is way too short. Let them go 100,000 miles, or untill you have a running issue that would require a tuneup. nipper
  2. Oi ... First thing to do is replace the radiator cap. Second thing is to train yourself to scan the dashboard and not read but locate visually the temp gauge needle to make sure its where its supposed to be. Overheating any aluminum engine to the point of stalling is a horrible thing. Sometimes you luck out sometimes you dont. You should have also changed the oil at the time the raditor was replaced. Radiators dont just blow up unless the pressure relief function of the radiator cap fails. i have never heard of one failing closed, usually they wont hold pressure (there is always a first time). Of course somone could have put the wrong cap on it. There is only one other way for the cooling system to get pressurized, and thats with combustion gasses getting into the water jackets. Your next step is going to be a wet and dry compression test (and tell us both sets of numbers). After that you get a coolant system leak down test. This car needs to be gone over with a fine tooth comb before you leave the state. i dont want to make you paranoid, but im not convinced the reason for "blowing" the radiator was fully addressed. I am aslo not a huge fan on replacing headgaskets on engines with over 180,000 miles on them (for other cars i use 150,000 as the cutoff). It really depends on what the compression test comes back with. nipper
  3. look at the base not the filament. If there is only one solder button then its one filament. If there are two then its two. Also look at the socket for one or two buttons. WOuldnt be the first time somone put a single filament bulb in a dual filament socket.
  4. Usually you need an inch-lb torque wrench to make the adjustment properly. Its not really something that should be done in the driveway. It does fall under the heading " you can make things a lot worse ...." nipper
  5. AWD depending upon the sophistication (and subarus are very sophistaced) will always feel a little tight when you first start making a tight turn. Blu does that when you first cut the wheel tight, then the puters figure out what your doing, and it releases. The problem is when it doesnt release becuase things are gummed or or stuck.. nipper
  6. nope These are dual filament bulbs. One foilament is the parking light, the other is the brake light. It is not unusual for the fliament to fail in such a way that one filament shorts out against the other filament, giving the back feed that you see. The only time the brake lights flow through the turn signal, is whaen its a single lense system. When you have a seperate turn signal (orange) it does not run through the turn signal. Parking lights never run through the turn signal. nipper
  7. We cant tell you a thing unless you tell us how many miles are on the car. Its called a CEL or Check Engine Light. For some reason your running extra rich at startup, thats my guess. Maybe a bad Engine Temp sesnor, but you need to get the codes read first, which will require you borrowing a reader and having it plugged into the car. When the CEL light comes on, read the code. nipper
  8. What you see is normal. Learn how to manually shift the car. In rolling hills or when using the cruise control (in rolling hills), your much better off leaving the car in D3, otherwise it tends to hunt around and do other weirdness. All 4 speed automatics tend to do this when they are attached to a 4 cylinder engine. Steep hills i'll donwshift to d3, to discover the car is already there. I keep it in D# so it doesn hunt for gears or over work. The holding a lower gear on the downhill when not necassary is annoying. i take my foot off the gas and let the car upshift, or shut off the cruise and let the car upshift. nipper
  9. Normally the pump does not care which way its spinning. Take one apart and double check. nipper
  10. Well we can start with your car Question.. Can anyone use VOl II and III FSM from a 1988 GL/ VOL I but the dust ages ago, but if anyone can use them ill bring them along. Along with the corn. and maybe some cinder blocks nipper
  11. google corvair i used to own one. To reverse the engine, you need to flip the cam and crank sensors. Next you need a custom ground cam. The rest of the engine doesnt really care which way it rotates. What transmission are you going to use? It may be easier to just flip the differential, which is a very common thing to do. nipper
  12. If it's an automatic, add a transmission cooler. At 140,000 miles, if the car blows a HG (which is a long shot at this point) it will be due to age more then anything else. Part of me wants to say service the cooling system, the other part wants to say leave it alone. If you do service the cooling system, triple check to get all the air out of the cooling system and you will be ok. nipper
  13. if the car stays in it lane, doesnt drift, nor does it follow the break in the cement between lanes, your tie rods are fine. You probably just need an alignment. If you need tierods the shop will tell you. nipper
  14. GOD how i HATE driving across nebraska. Watch out in the middle of the state, i forget which (and only) city that is, but there is always a cop there. Look it up on a map. I have done that trip 15 times, and never driven through in daylight, and been told i am not missing a thing. Western nebraska is nice, after that put a brick on the gas pedal, tie off the steering wheel, and go to sleep. nipper
  15. Doesnt that mean we have to put him up in cinderblocks in the front yard? nipper
  16. also check to make sure the EGR valve is functioning. Not all ping is bad and avoidable. nipper
  17. For NGK http://www.ngk.de/Spark_plugs.649.0.html If your using another brand go to the mfg web site and look it up. nipper
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