nipper

All subarus seem to have a coolant smell, and no one has been able to find it. I rented a 2006 for 10 days and it had it. the service writer said hes had complaints, but can't find the problem. It may be just one of those subaru things. My 1997 had it till the engine threw a rod, my freinds 2004 forester and 2005 outback have it on occasion. The miss under load is hard to diagnose on an awd car. on single axle drive cars, you can connect them to a dyno and a engine analyzer and try to find it that way. Satsify my curiosity. if the weather is cooperative, soak the engine with a hose while running and see if it changes at all. if it does, let the engine sry out, and the next day use a spray bottle of water around the suspiscous area, and see if you can reporduce it. This will chaeck for vacume leaks and electrical lekage. nipper

It was in the news today that the next tribecca is getting a 3.6L engien that will use regular fuel. It is also getting a new nose that is less "dramatic" and a re design of the rear body. There als has been some tweaking to the seats to make it easier to get to the back seats. At least subaru is listening, nipper

no your problem would be worse. With an automatic there are a few things you can do to remedy it, with a manual there is nothing. This goes for ALL AWD cars, you need to drive in circles to make sure the car doesnt jerk. nipper

The only thing i can think of is that the new half shfts may have some more mass in them (why dont people just get enitre axles?) . The new weight may magnify the normal NVH that the driveline produces. It is also possible that if one side was replaced, and the other wasnt, that the engine now is off balance, creating that vibration (i really like that theory). Now if anyone out there has an afternoon to kill and is relly curious, somone can first try removing the cotter pins and see if the vibratio changes, or remove the shafts from the transmission and see if it goes away. Also it may require a really good scale (that can weigh ounces) and see if one half shaft is heavier then the other. nipper

The big thing here is getting the torque correct. Go on the high end of the torque value. Make sure the keyway is clean, and the pully goes on evenly and all the way. Make sure threads are clean. Loctite isnt really neccassary, but in this application its like chicken soup, it cant hurt. nipper

why not blame the axles, tires or wheels as well? If you look over the threads, its the engine that does this, not the transmission. When in drive with your foot on the brake, you are oputting a load on the engine at its most inneffecient operating range. The engine is spinning the toque converter and front pump. The second half of the TC does not want to spin since you have your foot on the brake. There are actually LESS things moving in the transmission in this mode then in park or neutral. In the engine it can be a dirty throtle plate, vacume leak, egr, IAC, plugs or wires, i can go on. Now is the shudder even or does it a rythym to it. If it is even it is something that is common to all cylinders, if it is rythmic it can be traced to an indvidual cylinder. nipper

As long as the engine has not been baked, they are pretty much fixed. Where are one or two here that have had multiple HG failures. I suspect those are due to other issues besdie the HG. Also check for torque bind. nipper

Time to have a dealer look at it. It sounds like you may have a bad lock up solenoid. nipper

it's winter i have no life so give me my sauce .... mmmm choclate you know you could have been helpful and done this : http://www.cardomain.com/ride/422268 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-486072.html http://www.speedydelivery.co.uk/car-tuning-power/subaru-justy.shtml http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/index.cgi?board=engine&page=6 http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/index.cgi?action=viewprofile&user=justy14s now give me my darn sauce back. nipper

Some people have done bizzare things to justies. i dont think that you can easily make one 4wd, but with too much cash and too much spare time anything is possible. I have seen a 4cyl justy (stock engine) with a turbo, whic would prorarly be far easier. Converting one to $Wd may be possible, but lots of luck finding parts. nipper

Exactly what problems are you having? nipper

So maybe it is just the cars before 99 that has this issue nipper

That almost defeats the purpose of having a relay. What did they do, take lessons from fiat or lucas on wiring? nipper

my rear breaks were done 15,000 miles ago. The shop i use always blleds the breaks in a sufficient amount to displace all the old fluid (i asked and have used them for years). Cars in general are made to survive from -25 to 135 F (granted they may be a little grumpy). I've seen frozen breaks at the drum, but even that is rare (and usually the parking brakes fault). I am seeing a pattern here i dont like, and i think we all need to hit the nhtsa website at once to get thier attention. Does anyone with newer subaries have this issue? Its supposed to get to 15 F here on tuesday, ill have to watch out for this, though i will admit the remote starter tends to avoid this problem. If i go out to a movie ill see if it happens again. nipper

That has to be the ground of the relays, not the hedlights. The relays are just remote switches (if you will). As long as they operate, the size of the ground doesnt matter. Now it is possible that the contacts are dirty on the load side. Check the voltage drop acroww the load side of the relay. Check your hedlight terminlas and grounds. Also bulbs do get old and loose power. What condition are your lenses in? nipper

For our own saftey in bitter cold weather, i must suggest that before you move the car pres the break pedal a few times. My gut is telling me that its not the master cylinder, but condensation in the booster freezing. nipper

Get a 2nd opinion. Tming belt, do the water pump, cam seals main seal and oil pump seals. I am afraid to ask, but was the timing belt done at 106,000 miles.? nipper

ABS in a subaru is flwo through design. It doesnt get involved in the break circuit unless there is a puter malfunction or the wheel speed dictates it so. The failure mode is either it doesnt work or it constantly cycles. One way to find out is just pull the fuse and let the car cold soake, but i really dont think its the ABS. nipper

Easisest is a switch at the parking break light switch. you can put the switch in the console. No running nasty wires through the firewall. nipper

http://users.sisna.com/ignatius/subaru/headgasket.html Just an FYI For the record, its not just subaru that has this problem. Google Head gasket and you will see gm ford chrysler (lots of neons) toyota etc all have HG issues of some kind. Interestingly its not across the entire product line, only specific engines. If i ever get snowed in one day ill have to see if i can find a common denominator. If i had to guess, i would say its the deck (hybrid open type) design. nipper

I want you to try this. Once the cars temp gauge is in the middle, drive it as you would, but shift it manualy. start in 1, then 2, then 3, then 4. I want to see if it goes into 4th, then lockup. Lockup drops the engine RPM by aprox 300 rpm. Lockup occurs in all gears. Next drive the car in drive 3, and hold the rpm at something resonable and see if lockup happens. Does your tranny temp light come on when you first start the car. And as was mentioned when was the last time you had the fluid flushed. Does your CEL work. Something else that may affect it is loss of the VSS sensor. nipper

i missed that part, thats a good question. Check your vlotage output at idle under full load and again at 2500 and 3500 rpm. nipper

Is that all the time? nipper

I can tell you that used head bolts from an aluminum engine have the same strength as new ones. We were in a slow period in the metalurgy lab and decided to find out (we were all car guys). We did a rockwell hardness test and a load test. The threads were in a steel bolt and the threads of both bolts gave within 10% of each other. The load to failure test was almost the same. I want to say the bolts were from a honda buut it was years ago. Sorry i dont have the numbers to show, as it was a "i wonder...." kind of test. Steel bolts in a steel block should be replaced, but they also blow head gaskets far less. nipper

Even new struts are going to feel stiffer then the old ones, no matter what you put in there. Personally i wouldnt put in used struts. Springs arent needed if the car sits level and you dont tow anything. I am at the same decision point you are. I may stay with stock springs, but i know i have one blown strut. I would like the taller springs but dont think its going to happen. nipper