nipper

Personal habits have nothing to do with it. We have zero snow here in NY (I WANT SNOW). The human body puts out a lot of moisture just sitting there breathing. Also when warmer moist air hits colder air you get condensation, and it doesnt take much ice to make a strong bond. nipper

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA nipper

phase 1 were also DOHV and phase II were sohc i thought. nipper

Cookie, when i use my remote starter i dont. When i just get in the car and drive i have a dead pedal. Now keep in mind when i use the remote starter i have the heater on also. nipper

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/power-brake2.htm OK i see freezing as the cause. One side of the booster is exposed to moist cabin air, the other side to dry outside cold air. You Get this mix you get condensation. When the air is cold enough that condensatiuon freezes. Check valve doesnt have anything to do with it. When it is below 35 the AC in the car does not work, so there is no way to dry out the air. http://sg.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070202205101AAz5pfN I just searched the net and i come up with an unsatisfactory answer (flush the brakes). In that one article that stated that, the respondont just did a flush the year before. (he had a 2000 subaru). Now there arew two failure modes. The one with the bad master cylinder, the pedal goes to the floor. The freezing Power Brake booster, you get a very hard pedal. best i can tell is that we all need pwer brake boosters (im not sold on that). If there is no recorgnized problem, then there is no solution. For now, DO NOT DRIVE BELOW 30 DEGREES UNTILL YOU HAVE A BRAKE PEDAL! nipper

I think it is related to the mass og the replacement half shafts. Forget anything about the car moving. When the car is in neutral or park the engine is not fighting a mechanical brake (the transmission). Everything is spinning freely. When the car is in drive, and not moving, the engine is under load. Engines under load run a little rough compared to no load. NOw add unequal weight on either side of the engine/tranny, you can magnify this vibration. There is an entire specialty for this, its called NVH noise nibration and harshness. It's a bit complicated to explain over the net. Sometimes having mismatched weights on either side can make things far worse then one would think. You can induce vibration that was invisable before. It's part engineering part black magic. You have a moment arm at the half shafts. For every distance X you move away from the center of the drive line, the affect increases. SO if one half shaft is heavier then the other, you can induce a rather heavy vibration. nipper

where did i say a year? i just said sebrings? And btw there is a 1996 sebring in 1996 http://www.allpar.com/model/sebring.html :-p specifically its the ones with the v-6 engines. silly person

Thats ok. Chysler Sebrings have a HUGE problem with oil gelling. Chrysler is so bad at handling it, they dont even admit to making the car. i guess that just follows the neon HG issues (almost all of them). Toyota just got sued over it. nipper

darn you beat me to it.... nipper

Not true. The engine is rotating, the pistons are moving, the accesories are moving. There is a very busy chunk of metal under the car, even without forward movement. Its added mass to the engine. the engine is vibrating. If you have mis matched weight on the engine, you can induce movement about the axis (yaw). If its not evenly done you can amplifier any vibration. NVH is an amazing science. nipper

except lexus has an ugly little oil sludge isssue in some of their engines. i'ld atke chance of HG over a blown engine any day nipper

There have been no reports from the 2004 05 06 models. There has been some creeping in from 2003. If I had the choice between an internal vs external leak, ild take the external leak. I still wouldnt trade in my 1997 for a 2007 unless i got the H6. i dont like the way they look after 1999. nipper

The water pump tends to fail around 140-180K (if its going to fail). technically if your leaking (from the weaphole) your already failing. Unlike fan belt drivne pumps, if the timing belt driven pump fails spectacularly, its the same as snapping a timing belt. nipper

Pumping the braakes on an ABS system wont hurt it, but instead of doubling your breaking distance you may triple it. Let the silly machine do the work, and you really need to give yourself lots of room in icy/snow conditions. Give yourself as much distance as you would if the car didnt have abs. nipper

Now they say the standard is 4 and 8 o'clock because of the airbag. I find that terribly uncomfortable. nipper

Well if your running regular in car meant for premium, and have a runing issue, you need to switch back to premium for a while and see if it goes away. What may have worked in one season may not work in another. nipper

I have, but it also had a connecting rod sticking out the side of the block along with choice words i do beleive i said "man thats ugly...." nipper

Well they need to look at the lower end of the market too. Suzuki has a decent awd car for 17,000 (possibly where the european justy comes from). Not only is it electronic awd, but it has that magicl switch which lockes up the AWD to 36mph. nipper

i jut hate vague mid year changes. i used to laugh at VW vin #'s, and the ability to break down the date the car was made to get the correct part. That may not have been a bad thing. nipper

well if we were to tell you it wouldnt be hidden anymore would it? hehehehehe nipper

I basically replace everything under the timing belt covers when i get the belt done. This just about guarentees you 100,000 trouble free miles (from that part of the engine).

97-99 are pretty much all the same. There is some torque loss when they went to the SOHC engine, but i forget when that happaned. nipper

I recalling there being a lateral mount (maybe on the tranny) that if its not disconnected makes installing an engine almost impossible (i may be wrong). nipper

Replace the relay, and all would be well. nipper

i have never ever heard of doing a valve job on one side of the engine. Doing it just on one side of the engine can lead to a rough idle and other weirdness. How did they decide it needed a valve job (which is rare on a subaru). What you may need to do is find a shop with a computerized engine analyzer and let them look at the car (people rely way too much on the ECU to trouble shoot). Usually the reason for a valve job today is a burnt valve, not carbon buildup. nipper