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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. what he said. They may be reverse threads. And yes you can heat the snot out of that bolt to break it loose Worse thing will mappen si that you need new nuts. Also dont rule out cutting the nuts off with a chisel. nipper
  2. Maybe that should be the USMB symbol for over heating. The bleed screw is on top of the radiator opposit the radiatore cap. It will look like a large philips head screw. be kind to it as its plastic. Now when you over heat, do you have heat coming out of the heater core. Right now what I would do is check the coolant level and make sure its full. Did you cook the eingine? If you did, change the oil asap. Did you over heat it till it stalled? nipper
  3. Yes you are. Another thing is to check and see if there is any play in the wipers when they are off. This would let us know if there is any wear in the bushings. nipper
  4. HOLY TENSIONER BATMAN!!! i just looked up on https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html (when it worked) and it was like 65.00 . That was just the pully with the bearing. Either way that price seems high. Jamie also has a timing belt for 60.00. Call Jamie and see if she ships to canada. buy the parts yourself. nipper
  5. Think of the letter Z thats a bell crank. Put pivot points on where the lines join. nipper
  6. :-p Sometimes they work as a last ditch effort, but even when they work, its not for very long nipper
  7. My Fathers father was a plumber, my father was an airforce mechaninc in ww2 and a jack of all trades (though some of his fixes were amusing). i am an automotive engineer, and love working with my hands. Going back beyond my grand father, men in general just had to know how to do things, and there were a lot less things to fix. Sadly the line ends with me. I am not having kids any time soon, and my brothers kids can't stand get thier hands dirty. Maybe thats why i like to explain things so much here, it gives me a outlet. nipper
  8. normally when you do the timing belt you should do the seals, waterpump and tensioner. It avoids doing all that work again in the future. nipper
  9. reverse works so there is a chance that second gear works. (reverse works off second). Personally i would walk away from it. nipper
  10. The two tear drop switches on the console. One is for the driving lights, the other is for the rear fog light. nipper
  11. Cool wasnt sure when the tensioners were fixed. I think the local dealer wants the business of oil changes nipper
  12. My biggest problem was where to put the relay i already had a firewall pass through from other projects. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=915 nipper
  13. Can you take it to a shop to confirm this? Are you absoloutly in love with the car? Are you prepared to replace the tranny if wrong? these are things you need to ask yourself. nipper
  14. Any time you buy a car with a transmission problem, budget the cost fo a replacement tranny for the car. This is a highly unusual failure for a subaru. Usually you cant get it out of park. Does the car shift through r-n-d, or is it seriously stuck in Drive and wont move. nipper
  15. how to keep your subaru alive is a great book. These are simple cars and like VW beetles will run forever if taken care of. $400.00 cars are a myth, so if you found one, all the better. Rust is your #1 thing to look for, everything else is repairable. Look for rust. Take it for a drive. Have a freind watch the exhaust for blue smoke, and watch the back of the car to see how it tracks. Don't expect perfection, but its reasonable to ask for the car to have all4 tires going in the same direction. nipper
  16. I love it when people say these things. The automatics in subarus, as long as they are maintained last the life of the car (in most cases). The failure rate of automtaics vs manual seem to be equal (ie not often). The achillies heel in ALL subaru automatics is the AWD units. If the car has had unmatched tires, drivin on a flat, or poor history of maintanence (auto) then they will have problems. The manual is far less forgiving then the automatic when torque bind rears its ugly head. That being said, I would walk away from this car. That clunk during turns can be any number of things, from inexpensive to very expensive, so its not worth the risk. nipper
  17. Dont over tighten them, and use the ones that come with the lights. I drilled pilot holes first then used the screws that came with the hellas. I was surprised actually, there was no shake at all untill one of the adjusting bolts (not mounting bolts) loosened up. nipper
  18. I am 14 months into my silver stars with no problems. I personally think that they are more sensative to connection issues. Silverstars are not blue. The blue lights or faxe xenon lights get washed out in the rain. Personally if i have to buy a new set every year, for the extra light they throw and the extra margin of saftey its well worth it. nipper
  19. If your nice about using self taping screws, you can use them. I screwed mine right into the bumper skin. I was amazed they held (its been 7 months). The lights came with wall fastners, which i thought was silly until i thuoght about and realized that was an elegant solution. In the spring im going to take off the bumper skin and use nuts and bolts to attche them better, just for peice of mind. nipper
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