nipper

the sandwich adapter was fine, the 1/8" gauge port was fine (my fault it leaked) the other one on the other hand ...... nipper

i really didnt want to do that, but i mught have to. Ill have to chase back that mistery wire and see where it connects. i thought maybe it went to the oil pressure switch, but i may be wrong. At least the temp sensor will be easy to check , the pressure one i dont have the setup for. i suspect thats a metric thread, and a straight thread at that. nipper

ok mine is 1/8npt and the other is a very sloppy 3/8, which i am going to guess is metric. SInce i love pain so much (joke) and hate things not working, i used the sandwich plate. The senders leaked, but worse yet they were dead. I need to investigate them some more. i think the temp is the 1/8npt (three wires as in a thermistor) and the larger (weighs a ton) is the oil pressure. There is also a mystery wire at the sending unit harness that may have something to do with the dead gauges. nipper

Cookie if it makes you feel any better, i have a leaking seperator plate . Odd how the dealerhip told me that the valve cover gaskets and cam gaskets were leaking, as that part of the engine is bone dry. nipper

i think 1991 it was part of a recall to install a spin on filter. You can still get the kit from subaru from what ive been told. Would be nice if he just had clogged lines (which can kill a tranny) but i think he may have a more serious fault. nipper

Its lasted 187,000 miles. I have made many $acrifices to the auto Gods, new AWD unit, driving lights, rear fog light, ipod controller, tuneup (not cheap), and now JDM Gauges. The car should be sated. Just because cookie is afraid to roll out of his garage, doesnt men the rest of us are fearful. Just found out today i should hit snow in wyoming YEHAH nipper

i know this always confuses everyone http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm http://auto.howstuffworks.com/framed.htm?parent=question164.htm&url=http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html nipper

where did you buy the gaskets nipper

and thats the weakness of the intenet, nothing like being there to hear where its coming from. nipper

Oil galleys 2.5L 1997 I have the JDM factory Oil Temp and oil pressure gauge. The pressure sender i can bolt in using a sandwich plate (rather not since it requires a differnt oil filter). Where can i put these things. I was a bit surprised to find out they are english threads. The temp sensor is 1/8 and the pressure sensor is 3/8. Pictures would be helpful too. nipper

\\ All those problems are inside the tranny, assuming the replacement tranny is good, yes it should remedy the problems. nipper

i agree its to loud and deep for lifters. Take a long screwdriver or a wooden dowel, put it to your ear, and the other end probe around the engine, that will tell you where its coming from. Also sounds really loud for a tensioner. nipper

haynes manual shows it pretty well as being mounted on the brake pedal box. nipper

weird things happen, but usually its a ecu that blows up from a bad sensor (if anything is going to happen). Iv'e never heard of a ECU putting out too much voltage, i think they self desturct first if that happens. nipper

Man that sounds hideous . I would say a rod knock. Next time it happens, pull the spark plug wires one at a time and see if it changes pitch. Thats a deep noise, and mains dont ever go bad. If it is a rod bearing, if i am right, its going to be the 2nd cylinder on the pass side. nipper

right next to the brake pedal nipper

i see them even on non-salvage nipper

Its a common source of a leak nipper

Head gaskets arent broke dont fix it. (plays back tape) Its only 10-15% of the 2.5L dohc engines that have a problem, and i dont have a number on the sohc engines. The one thing that seems to be an issue is the rear wheel bearings, and if i remember correctly the fix is to put in legacy wheel bearings. I thjink on this entire list in the 3-4 years ive been on it, less then a dozen soobies have made people walk, and of those a few were rare dramatic failures. This is an amazing number consdiering how many of us have over 100,000 miles and many closer to 200,000 miles. The onlyother bug un the forester seems to be the spedo connnections get dirty and works rather oddly. A quick dissasembly and cleaning fixes that. nipper

I have absolutly no clue about what the problem is with this monster, since parts have been mixed and matched. This may be un resolvable. Are we sure the two gear ratios match front and rear? i'm sort of goping with the idea that the doner tranny was sick to begin with. nipper

I hate to say this, but i haven't given bad news in a while. You're doomed. The delay between r/d or P/d is due to a front pump or internal seals going bad. The whine is the front pump going bad. The reason it goes when you put it in 1st manually is that all the available pressure is going directly to the 1st gear circuit instead of being shared by other circuits. Also this locks out the A solenoid by allowing it to be fully open. The A controls line pressure, which is what your lacking. The clunk is most likely a bad over running clutch. nipper

Someone call me? First question, when was the last time the transmission oil was changed. The flashing light is telling you something was wrong the previous run of the car. It can be one of a few things, so you really need to read the codes. Can be the a solenoid which controls harshness of shifts Can be the b solenoid which controls the lockup torque converter Can be the dropping resistor Can be a gummed up valve Really need the code. Luckily over the years there are less and less parts in the tranny, so the computer is fairly clear on what the filure is. nipper

Another popular problem is the fill neck rotting at the tank. Check the fuel lines adn see if the smell is from the front or the rear of the car. nipper

Electrical or mechanical is the first question. There is an over ride to release the interlock, look in the owners manual, as i dont know how it works on your car. I know on the late 90's it underneath the trim panel around the prndl321 selector. With the car on press the brake pedal, then press the release button, you should here a click, thats the relay and solenoid operating. If you dont here this you have an electrical problem. Check you brake switch, the relay, and the switch in the release button. If you do a search here you will find some talking of a pin falling out of the interlock. nipper