nipper

grr then us Gen2 subarus are cheated nipper

If the starter is spinning faster then normal, and the belts are turning, then the starter is working. High speed cranking means no compression. If you think the timing belt is right, you need to do a compression test. Also make sure you have spark right now. Next is make sure thet the crank and cam sensors are working, but im still betting on the timing being off. nipper

if there is ... i know the legacies stop at 120mph (wusses) or there abouts. i would imagine its 130 for a turbo. nipper

yup. Subarus also tend to be a bit more sensative to proper break in, but then again not many cars on the road where 200-400,000 miles is the norm and still running like a top. nipper

i admit my weaknesses. i'm great at deciphering multiple codes, and single codes. No codes throw me off sometimes. Unintended acceleration is one of those hard to solve ones. At least he has the inteligence to put the car in neutral and shut it off. On restart the problem goes away. If i could see it happen with my code reader i would have a better idea. Beisdes ive been an electrical pin cushion today, brain is fried nipper

is that year drive by wire? i wasnt sure My freind doesnt drive much (his biggest trip was today taking me for painful EMG test). i'll inform him nipper

Honestly i do ! My freind has a 2004 Forester 2.5L auto base model. Mileage is around 20K. Twice now he has had WOT happen to him while driving, usually when coming to a stop. He put the car in neutral and it raced right up to redline/fuel cut off. The car goes in next week to the dealer. I am thinking the IAC is going nuts, but like i have said, this is my weak area , especially if there is no codes. Any ideas? nipper

:confused: :confused: :confused: Is this one of those odd math problems? If a Ukranina man with no checking account travles at the speed of light, how does he set his clock? I didnt know brightons had clocks, or is there one in the radio? nipper

i've seen the part names vary from manual to manual we all get caught by that. nipper

When the car is cold, its in an open loop. This means that the computer is running off pre programed set points. At 138 degrees the car is not warm. Once the car reaches (i think it said) 154 degrees, the car is warmed up. The computer now goes into closed loop. This means that the car is now reading all the sensors and ajusting to them. This is where a faulty sensor will show up, unless it was a gross fault (open circuit or short). nipper

from what i found on the web, those clutches were prone to failure, maybe thats why his front diff went bad too. nipper

i dont like it. The factory set up lasts for alomost the life of the car. depending upon how long you want this car to last is up to you. That spring loaded thing is the flex joint for the exhaust system. http://www.ecatalyticconverter.com/ nipper

Thats a differnt engine, not the same as in the new subarus. nipper

Sound travels, but it is worth investigating, as the tensioner is on the drivers side, but not by much, we are talking inches. This may be something worth looking in to. nipper

like i said, the car wasnt warmed up yet. good info nipper

By anychance you dont have a house trailer attached to this thing :-p nipper

Welcome to the baord The wrong spline is a common problem. i had that happen alot, so has my mechanic. Go to a differnt store (chain) or a mom and pop store, these things happen. 121-153 ft lbs it says for the legacy of the same year, i am sure its the same for your car Balljoints dont wear out too often on these cars. As long as the boot isnt riped you should be fine. Watch ebay, but for now get a haynes manual You cheated, usually you break the strut from the lower control arm. nipper

There is a direct mechanical connection to the front diff http://www.allpar.com/eek/awd.html Just forward of the rear differential mounted between the driveshaft and the differential pinion is a unit with an overunning clutch and a dog clutch. When in any forward gear the dog clutch is disengaged. Whenever the front wheels are the same speed or slower than the rear wheels the over running clutch is slipping and no torque is supplied to the rear wheels. Whenever the front wheels are faster than the rear, as when they slip on ice or snow, the over running clutch locks up transferring torque to the rear axle, but only as much as the viscous coupling will supply. When the front axle is only slightly faster than the rear, only a small amount of torque is transferred. When in reverse the dog clutch engages which locks the driveshaft to the rear differential pinion because the over running clutch function is backwards for driving the van in reverse. The AWD system does not split torque unevenly left to right. The left and right half shafts have a normal differential identical in function, if not truly identical, to the FWD differential. The driveshaft to the rear is turned by a ring and pinion driven directly from the ring gear (actually a helical gear) of the front axle differential. The ring gear drives the pinion, unlike normal ring and pinions where the pinion drives the ring. This whole ring gear assembly is hollow so that the a shaft from the front axle differential to the right side front axle half shaft can pass through the ring gear without affecting or being affected by power to the rear axle. There are no limited slip differentials in the transaxle. The system got a little more sophistcated as it aged, but still basicallyt the same system, only with an electronic clutch replacing the dog clutch. what a cheap rump roast system nipper

54 K your half way through the timing belt life. Have it checked since the tensioner was not replaced. A sloppy tension can cause this problem. Tensioners will tick, do you hear a ticking at the front of the engine? nipper

er ummm er You need to do this with the car running..... then tell us what you see. Wasnt the radiator rather hot? Was the car hot or cold? How old is the radiator cap. FYI little bubbles happen. Car vomiting antifreeze into the resivoir bad. Replace the cap after you check for bubles when running. The little bubbles may be ok nipper

Do it all at once, then be done with it untill the next timing belt change. nipper

There is a sandwich adapter that goes on inbetween the oil filter and the engine. I do beleive it is available from both subaru and from ebay. nipper

Ive had mine for a year and very little wear. DO get the tire warrenty with them as mine has some broken belts from wonderful NYC streets. I think they will last the 80,000 they are rated for. They are a little noisy, but there is a trade off. Quiet tires are made of softer rubber so dont last as long. High mileage tires are harder rubber so louder. i am very happy with the tires. They seem to LOVE awd. as FWD tires only the hydroplane a bit on a sooby (i had TB for a while). In AWD they very sticky. nipper

I'm sorry i thought this was new to you. Still if you havent changed the antifreeze in the last 2 years its a good thing to do. DIffferntials look at the recomendation. Same with the tranny. (blinker fluid ...seasonal hehehe) nipper

change the fluids and have a good ride Raditor Fluid Differentials Transmission Blinker fluid (winter is coming) nipper