nipper

probably made worse by trying to explain things ping has been catgaroized as pre ignition and knock. i also should have stuc k with cycle names instead of micxing crank angles. When i talk about ignition or burning of fuel i usually talk in refernce to BTDC not after. Intake strroke starts before the compression storke, hence my 280 degrees comment, so that was correct. For the engineering people http://powerlab.mech.okayama-u.ac.jp/~esd/comodia2004/C6_1_049.pdf#search=%22combustion%20and%20knock%22 http://www.stanford.edu/~bmoses/knock.html i used to have a great color scan of a flame front, as it looses something in black and white. if your still with me, a great explination of the weakness of the knock sensor http://sine.ni.com/csol/cds/item/vw/p/id/398/nid/124300 and more so in english http://www.exxonmobil.com.sg/files/PA/AP/Synergy_Fuel_System_FAQ.pdf#search=%22combustion%20and%20knock%22 scroll down to the second page. nipper

Did you fill up at any point during this, or before this ? How old is the o2 sensor Have you changed the fuel filter How old are the wires nipper

Is it just me, but i dont get the big deal about ethanol. In NY we have had ethanol in our fuel since i guess the 1980's. Ping is very sensative to air temp humidity altitude and load on the engine (head vs tail wind). Just because you hear it in one place doesnt mean you have it. This is getting to be one of those i may just bow out of, since no one has engine knock. Ping is just due to the fact that engines run at the stochiomteric ratio, and therefor run very hot inside the combstion chambers. All cars ping once in a while, and here's another thought. Just because you cant hear it doesnt mean its not happening. Ping happens before TDC, knock happens after tdc. Ping happens as the air fuel mix is being compressed, usually after the spark plug has fired. It starts another flame front due to a hotspot in the cylinder, its not a godd thing, but its also not horrible, just anoying. Knock is the air fuel mix getting ignited after tdc, as it starts to enter the cylinder. This is very yery bad. As the piston starts to go up on what should be a compression cycle, it has an uncontroled explosion on which it has to fight again. PING = Pre ignition is just that. Its happening in the 15-35 degrees before tdc, where normal combustion takes place to begin with. Knock is happening usually 280 degrees before TDC which is very very bad, this is what blows up a piston. nipper (hope that helped)

https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html or call them and ask for Jamie nipper

hrmmmm sooooo 7 years of researching these cars, including being various members on boards, a degree in automotive engnieering, member of SAE for 30 years, and im not an expert (not to mention 25 years of owning subarus). I've read every single TSB on these cars, read all the engineering failure analysis, and im called a back seat svx'r. i am so biting my tounge. http://www.drwtransmission.com/subaru_svx.htm http://uniquecars.carpoint.ninemsn.com.au/portal/alias__uniquecarsau/tabID__203009/ArticleID__5313/DesktopDefault.aspx How many people on here can even say they have taken apart several SVX torque converters to analyze and see the problem first hand, or cut open an SVX tranny cooler, or had the material analyzed to see exaclty what it was (i really miss college labs sometimes). i dont even know what to say in polite company so i wont even say it. have a nice day nipper

i'm glad someone else gave the bad news this time. nipper

#1 reason for overheating after servicing the cooling system is an air pocket. nipper

they base that on 1000 miles a month, so every 105 months, or under every 9 years, so yould be right on scheduale to do it this year

look at the front tires, see if there are nay flat spots. If they used a trolly then you will be ok. Look at the parking space and see if there is any drag marks. a college tow operator may not be in that much of a rush as its a safe bet that the driver is busy for the first 3 hours of the day. nipper

Tranny problem has to do with the lockup torque converter clutch material flaking off and clogging the cooler lines (that plus some underdesigned gears) Besides, they blew way before 100K (im still looking for one) nipper

hehe forgot the rear wheel bearings *kicks self* im not at home so i dont have my links :-\

Your tranny is dying. i dont like that you actually saw particles in the oil, usually they stay in the pan. That means something is actually chewing itself up. Only a matter of time before you loose forward motion. Swap it out, dont rebuild it. There arent alot of parts in the kit, but you need alot of special tools, and its not something that you want to devlop a learning curve on. nipper

there is a svx board, i dont have the link. you cant really tell anything by looking at the rotors (warped). Is the noise a roar (svx's have been known to have the rare rear end go bad) DO all the tires match Does the noise go away when she applies the breaks DOes the break pedal pulse Check the ger lube level in the diff. nipper

If this was a manual, they took a huge risk. They could have lost the car and hurt someone, along with driveline damage. If this was an automatic, less chance of killing somone and of internal damage. Personally i would write a letter to the college, to the towing company, and to the state DMV. Certified letter to the first two. Towing companies are getting away from slings, but they are speedy for impounds. nipper

this is not a fair test. You cannot compare two cars from two differnt generation of model. Not only is the newer car heavier, but the 00 has a 16" tire, and the older one has a 14" tire. Thats a HUGE difference. Also they are most likely geared differnetly. nipper

ive had silverstars for a year now and they seam fine. Once again it goes back to how foggy your lense is. Some of our road surfaces here, anything short of sunshine get washed out on a wet road. Xenon bulbs for a buck, think about it, you get what you pay for. There are HID conversiond for 250-500 bucks, im wating for someone to try them first. Also make sure your headlights are aimed properly. No one ever checks the aim. nipper

Torque bind..an 800-1000 dollar repair good luck nipper

EEEEEEEEEEEEEEKKKKKKKKKKKKKK looked original:confused: that is supposed to be changed every 30,000 miles. You have two choices, change it now and hope that fixes it, or take it to a shop and get prpeared for a small repair bill (just replace the solenoid), or a huge one, rebuild the AWD unit. i'ld take it to a shop and see what they say, since the fluid has to go anyway. nipper

DUty c SOlenoid is not just TB. Its a valve thats stuck open, internally shorted or opened, or electrical failure resulting in TB. SOunds like yours is stuck open. This can be from gunk in the fluid or a mechanical failure of the valve. Another possability is that your clutches are so glazed that the dont transmit power to the rear wheels anymore. nipper

so you cooked the engine. Its not so much the aluminum, but you cooked the oil, and ild be more concerned about connecting rod bearings at this point, or in the future. nipper

Find another mechanic. i wouldnt take a car to this guy if he was doing it for free, as he does not know subarus. All cars have aluminum engines these days. Any car over 130,000 miles can blow a HG. We have them blow HG here, get repaired, and the problem is gone. The "lots of aluminum" line is pure crap. He shouldnt be in business, man things like this really piss me off. The big question here, which you dont say, is did you bake the engine, or did you not notice the temp gauge was pegged for a while. DId it stall on you? a HG runs 1200-1500 to fix. I would fix this one, since 99% of the time you fix the HG only once. There most likely is nothing worng with this engine aside from HG if you didnt bake it. i would keep the car. nipper

This is too serious a light to second guess. If the read the codes and it came back as a temp sensor, yes. The trany codes are clear cut unlike the ECU codes whic can take a little detective work. How did they figure out it was the temp sensor, i dont se an explination on that. nipper

also cool blue loose a lot of light on wet roads, i had them and couldnt see a thing. Get a pair of silverstars, i love them. If you have plastic headlights, polish them and that will help a lot too. nipper

fuse panel inside the car, lower left side of the car on the kickpanel. nipper PS get an owners manual if you can. It really helps.

Progress Driving lights are mounted, i mounted them right to the bumper skin. Shockingly they are tight. At some point ill taxe the skin off and bolt them properly. Air horn. You know there isnt a hell of a lot of room under that hood. The horns got mounted in front of the radiator behind the grill. Unfortunitly i had to mount the compressor there too. There was a spot next to the battery, but i wanted to keep that fairly clear. Next to the battery i have a mounting plate with three relays Lights arent aimed yet Rear fog light isnt here yet Horn isnt hooked up yet (and not happy with the quality of the compressor) now i have to polish my headlights, they look bad next to the Hellas. once all is wired i will post pictures (somewhere) nipper