nipper

I have BF Goodrich, They are a little noisye but great traction and handling on a awd car. DO you know the history of the car, like the last time the T Belt was changed, what else was done? I would change all the fluids. nipper

a clutch can do weird things. Can you go through the gears with car off and the clutch depressed? Can you start the car in gear (clutch depressed) then try shifting. Get under the car nad make sure the linkage is good. Also IF your going to chenage the tranny (i dont think its the tranny) might as well replace the clutch. This is not a standard failure mode for any manual tranny unless something is broken inside, and even then you would still have 3-4 5-R. Does it go from 2nd to neutral or is it just stuck in 2nd? Check the linkage. nipper

My car 138 degrees 800 rpm MAP 4.1 Load 3% i think we may be on to something. Could there be a cracked/leaking/broken line in the EVAP system? nipper

You cant clear the codes using the reader? its just that im seeing nymbers that are higher then on my car. One is the load, even cold my car runs at 3% 5% with the ac on. nipper

SUbarus are very picky about the plugs. Put the proper plug in and see what happens. i always assume the right plug is in, sorry about that. nipper

can you do this again when the car is warmed up? The problem may be your scanner. Not all scanners can read subarus, as (subaru being subaru) has a code on to itself, that meets the letter of the law, and can be read by most scanners. Ford also does the same thing. WHne i fisr installed my scantool, i got the same thing, untill i told it i was running it on a subaru, then it was happy. nipper

it can be a jumped timing belt, but i dont think so, as subarus tend to do that after 106,000 miles. Is there any mysterious ticking noise from the front of the engine? That would be a tensioner, then i could buy the timing belt theoory. nipper

Look at it this way, you can replace a part on your schedule, or on the cars schedule. The cars schedule usually reqyuires a tow truck in the middle of a cold rainy night. i prefer my scheduale, its much more convient. i also disagree with the go with the flow theory. It goes against everything i know as an engineer. You can cause just a lot of damage with a ball joint or a tie rod failing at speed. Telephone poles tend not to jump out of the way. Parts do give warning that they are going bad, but not everyone can pick up on the subtle nuances, or is trained to. Noises that build up gradually over time can escape an untrained ear. Also noisey bearings would fail an "inspection". i too worked on F15 compnonets and other air plane systems. i would never let my car becomes a bucket of bolts. There is no excuse for a maintanece part failing becuase it wasnt rreplced on scheduale. Older subarus are more tolerant of this method, but i still don't like getting stranded. nipper

Sounds like the slave or master cylinder is starting to go bad. HEat is expnading and softening the seals allowing the fluid to bypass the cups. nipper

If the car has less then 100,000 miles get the stop leak from subaru. i would not mention the leak. If you still have the leak then mention it. This is part oc a campaign that extends your coverage to 100,000 miles. nipper

doesnt matter, it can be flat or down hill. Uphill i understand. nipper

what kind of driving are you doing? i mean they are rolling bricks to begin with, but unless you practice jet propulsion at the traffic lights, its hard to get milage that poor. Have you checked for codes? maybe a bad knock sensor? nipper

its a lighter engine so you get better handling. It really depends what you want to do with it. If you want instant throttle response get the 6. If you want more nimble handling get the turbo. Thats been the general opinion of all the autowriters nipper

Did you install them in place of the fog lamps?

How are you measuring the fuel? you need to measure by what you put in the tank. If your gauge is off chevron has a additive that cleans gas gauges. It works really well. Next is the o2 sensors, and make sure none of your brakes are dragging. You may think about a set of plugs. nipper

heheh i know we probabaly all just jinxed ourselves ..... well at least we know who to blame nipper

FWD is the universal symbol for front wheel drive, for like almost forever. 4wd is the same for four wheel drive. Its designated by SAE and the NHTSA. This was not a subaru invention. These markings are set by engineering standards. There is normally a label that says read your owners manual someplace on the instructions label for changing the tire. Very few people read thier owners manual. Very few read labels. There is only so much you can do to rule out peoples stubborness or stupidity or thier big brains. Every tire changing instruction i have ever seen has said Read your owners manual. If you buy a car without one its your responsability to get one. Also i've seen lables disapear on cars. nipper

flame throwers more fun nipper

This is annoying not an issue. same road same conditions. Sometimes the car stays in third with a delayed upshift to fourth. When in fourth with cruise may delay lockup. Fluid is new, and does it when hot. Any ideas?

both are bullit proof. Go with which ever one has Multi Point Fuel Injection (the 94/95). nipper

sigh i miss my trunk monkey. Had to give him away when i got the wagon nipper

Radiator is exposed to the elements. They clog from not using deminerilazed water. The cooling fins fall apart from the elements (corrosion). A radiator my guess from past exp would be 160,000 miles or 160 months. On a non interference engine you can wait till the timing belt breaks, but i think now all subaru belts last till 100,000 miles (sort of silly making some last only 60, then others 100). Materials have gotten better since then. Waterpump should be changed at either 100 or 120K miles depnding when you do the belts. Wheel bearings are tough, but again probably over 160,000 miles. Altenators no rhyme or reason. Spark plugs have a much longer life, along with wires then subaru says. Usually 100k or more. The ignitor isnt on there. Thats maybe in the 160,000 plus range. Another questionably short subaru interval is brake fluid, which should be changed at whenever brakes are done over 100,000. Cap and rotor depends upon the brand. i had a blue streak last the life of the car. Axles depends upon when the boot rips. Coil can go for ever Fuel pump if you dont run the car to fumes will last the life of the car. On my two 1980's subarus i never had to change struts, fuel pump, master cylinder. One i never changed the clutch, but did have to change the cables. I did have to change the universal joint in the drive shaft and shift linkage bushings. Most things you replace once every 150-180,000 miles. nipper

water, or just swap coils for the heck of it.. nipper

thought there was one already, or is that on the older gen board ....

but the color of the license plate really does clash with color of the car nipper