nipper

If it isnt broke dont fix it. Just change the fluids. nipper

Do you still have the old unit? Actually hate to tell you this, but for 6.00 you could have replaced all the lightbulbs. Check to make sure the other end of the cable is still connnected to the temperiture door. The cable is under the glove compartment, towards the center of the car. Dissconnect the cable and manually move the lever and see if you get heat. If you so, the problem ois the controler or the cable itself.... nipper

If you do that, get the gasket too. Used to be that you replaced the filter when you serviced the tranny, and adjusted the band. Also people would drop the pan, show you the amount of material in the pan, and scare you into buying a new transmission.. "there is alot of material in the botom of you pan, this means that the transmision is wearing internally and could fail...." but never tell you that could can be in the next 100K miles. Hence why tranny shops always had a bad reputation. you can buy pistons at autozone too, doesnt mean that you need one for a tuneup. That said, if you change the filter, be methodic in how you remove the pan. Remove the bolts in a star pattern, a few turns at a time untill it is completely loose, and take extreem care not to bend the mounting flange. It looks very robust, but that is the biggest source of leaks after a filter change. nipper

Now somone distract the original poaster so i can sneak in behind hin and buy the car

go look at "get it while its hot" thread. There is a link to a library ther that may have waht you want. nipper

i agree witht he theory. Make sure the valve isnt burnt, or has carbon holding it open. nipper

I have a 97 OBW, there is no filter. There is a screen inside the trannny pan, but that doesnt get serviced. nipper

If it is there, and you can touch it, and it unblots, replace it. nipper

An oil change will make a differnce, especially on a car that has been sitting around a few years. Chnage the oil, take it a nice highway spin and clean all the crap out of the engine. Also look into a new O2 sensor. I hear people have good luck with something called sea foam. Also i bet you the catalytic converter is shot drom sitting around for 3 years. nipper

Sounds like you have alot of blowby past the rings. Maybe one stuck ring or more, or a broken ring. nipper

Well the subaru engine is a sleeved engine. You cant bore out a sleeve normally (there is always someone that says they have). The sleves are already as thin walled as they can get, and there is no extra meat in the cylinders to take out and extra meat. nipper

a really long prying scredriver maybe while hammering the cv? nipper

From what i have been told on this list, its a just a screen and doesnt need to be changed. I have also talked to my mechnaic and he said that subaru doesnt call out for it to be chnged. nipper

Also the windows are set up that way because they add structure and rigidness to the doors. nipper

I agree, if you check all the connections to make sure they are tight, and dont see any cracked brake lines ( if they are thats an easy fix), just keep an eye on the fluid. Worse comes to worse and the ABS gets really bad, you can plumb around it. nipper

3rd vote, rebuitl engine. If you have rod knock, you may have main beraings issues too, in fact i would almost bet on it. nipper

I think the impact semsors are meant to be used only once. That is probably where your code is coming from. nipper

Just for the heck of it, check to make sure your accelertor pedal cable isnt too tight. just an idea .. nipper

For the amount of work it takes to get to the water pump, usually as long as your there, you replace the water pump, timing belts, seals and oil pump and oil seals, then you are good again till the next 150 K. It sounds like alot of expense as you are doing it all at once, but just imagine having to do that labor to get to the parts three tims (belt, seals, and water pump) al of which usually require some maint in 150K nipper

Actually, thats not uncommon. Take a deep breath and calm down. They have had a happy home for many many yearsand are not crazy about being pried out. There used to be a fairly inexpensive tool made for the sole purpose of grabbing the hydraulic lifters and yanking them out http://www.aeasyshop.com/products.asp?lang=HYDRAULIC_LIFTER_TOOL-prod-17120848-24050079 this is what it looks like. If you are planning on replacing the lifters you can get a little agresive in removing them. Waht you are seeing is normal, hence thy the 7.00 tool. Also some info on lifters http://www.cranecams.com/?show=techarticle&id=2 nipper

Nipper starts to chant.. raditaor radiator radiator hehehe i get mine from www.radiator.com Good people veru knowledgable ... and will give you a great price nipper

I had afreind who wanted to get an OBW, he was in the valley in Utah (salt lake city area). he complained how they were all 1500 more then here in NY. Aparently where there is snow, there is gold in used soobies nipper

Subaru fixed the design flaw in the gaskets. nipper

Is it loudest at startup then goes away as it warms up? Sounds like its piston slap, and there are many many many posts on it. Harmless, annoying but something one lives with. Seems to happen more on one side of the engine then the other. Take a wooden doowel or long scredriver and use it as a stehoscope to trace the sound. Not all noises mean doom, espeically on a car that is 15 years old. We all creak with age.

There is a service bullitin for the clunk.... search out "get it while its hot" i just dont know if it is your year or not. They replace either a joint or rubber coupling in the driveshaft to rectify it. The breaks are a little weak on some years subaur, as the car got heavier they didnt beef up the rotors. NOw that you had them cut, they will prbbly warp even faster next time. This may be some place where you would want to invest in some aftermarket rotors and fix the issue yourself nipper