Ross

ea81ts have horribly overpowered power steering anyway, far too light. I reckon a factor of 1.5 would be very nice indeed, let me know how it goes carfreak! I might have to copy you.......

You can tell if an axle is really bad by checking for torsional play.... you shouldn't be able to feel any (or at least very little) in a reasonable axle. Apart from that, there is not much that you can tell by inspection....

But you do need to be sure that you are adding a compatible grease.... greases with different bases don't mix well, to the point that they turn into sludge with very poor lubricating properties indeed. If you have no idea what kind of grease is already in there, you are better off to either leave it alone, or completely clean all the old grease out (at which point you may as well replace the bearings too!).

My old one had heaps, at least 1mm side to side, and only problem was that it was rattley, although i think that was a problem further back in the box. Replaced it with a lower mileage one with about 150,000kms on it - it still has a fair bit of play (you can just see it) and runs fine. If the gearbox wasn't noisey, and isn't leaking excessively, i'd would just leave it. My rattley old crap one took a beating for about 4 years before i got around to replacing it, and it never did anything else other than make noise.

Most likely a dodgey sender/gauge. But I'd be certain to check that - replace them and see what happens. If it isn't, you may have a problem with your oil pickup.

IF you really are sure that opening the heater valve causes the engine to overheat (I presume that is what you mean...), then i'd say the only things that could be behind it are blocked coolant passages and/or hoses, or a problem with the water pump or perhaps thermostat. Opening the heater valve will change the flow characteristics all over the place, which may lead to a lack of water being pumped through the main radiator. I'm guessing that you are talking about an ea82 - i'm not familiar with the exact layout of their cooling system. Looking at a schematic of the layout would most likely be a good place to start.

The stock driveshaft will work fine for the 4speed, no need to change. I presume mikeshoup means to connect the 4wd shifter - in which case the easiest way to do this is as 86bratman said.

Gearbox swap is fairly straightforward, i have done it on mine with no problems, goes much better. THe ea81ts seem to give less trouble than the ea82ts. As long as the cooling system is in resonable shape, overheating is not an issue at all.

He/She said STOP LAMP indicator. not Brake Fluid. The stop lamp indicator lights when there is an imbalance in the rear brake light circuit, normally when a bulb is blown, but even then it should only light with the brake pedal depressed. There is a little device near one of the rear light modules (not sure which one on your model) that sends a voltage to the warning light if an imbalance is present, check that its plugged in properly. Poor wiring up of trailer and/or high stop lights can cause problems with these.

Yes this is a symptom of a bad ground wire, but i've never located the particular one. My old wagon used to do this, along with a number of other strange symptoms such as switches turning on things they arn't supposed to. It happened after i had the dash out, then fixed itself, so i never located where exactly the problem was.... Try adding an extra ground to the instrument panel and see if it fixes it...

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but looks like you put the seal in backwards...

?? Actually, you can feel quite a substantial difference....

Yeah need a narrower than usual tool i think.... I only know of one outfit that has the gear in my city.

More than likely, you can get bearings down to at least -1.0mm (if you look hard enough) which gives you plenty of room to play with.

Yeah, and you wont need more fuel anyway, since it doesn't sound like you have plans to increase airflow... I'm not sure by how much, but non-US models seem to have a higher power output (particularly the turbo ones), so the stock injectors are large enough for a wee bit more anyway...

Yes they do state that, but upon closer inspection I think you'll find that: 1 - the speed they give is pump shaft speed 2 - The pressure values are given for a certain flowrate (as all hydraulic pump pressures must be), and they dont actually say that this flowrate corresponds to whats happening when the pump is mounted on an engine. The values are given for testing a pump on a test bench. Anyway, thats what my '83 FSM seems to imply, yours may be different.....

Because you cant run an engine at 100% throttle at RATED load!

Any non-archaic reasonably sized generator should be much more efficient than that...... You want to avoid having to use a gearbox, thats where you will loose power. Your best bet i think would be to use a 3600rpm generator, since your engine will be producing much more power here (power =speed x torque), and will be better lubricated.

You often cant tell the condition of a bearing once its out and cleaned. Worn hubs will contribute to this kind of problem - it can reduce the life of your bearings considerably. At one stage i was going through a set of bearings every three months! (although a worn spacer was also a contributing factor there).

Yeah, they are straight after the turbo though, right? bacc said that the wrx one was "somewhat downstream of the turbo", which i assumed meant a bit further down - i'm not familiar with turbo ejs at all. So yeah, if its straight after the turbo, should be fine.

Could be poor fuel vaporisation..... when it is rich there is more likelihood of there being pockets of stoic mixture... Something is a bit weird, it shouldn't idle well at all if the af ratio is really 10:1.....

My '83 turbo wagon (a japanese version) has a split back seat..... quite a bad setup tho - the bottom part of the seat doesn't flip up, so the seat backs can never actually quite fold down to horizontal.... Probably only 10-20 degrees off, but can be a pain. I also noticed that the seat back is mounted about 20mm further back in the car than the one in my '81 wagon was.

It does matter.... The sensor on the wrx will be designed to run at a lower exhaust temperature than yours - it may even be a 3 wire one? If you move the wrx one to the stock ea81t location, it will probably have a very short life. If you move the ea81t one to after the turbo, it may not work at all.

Next time it plays up, take the ignition wire off the disty and place it near an earth, and crank it... see if there is a spark. If it turns out that its the ignition module, you can get one off an '85 or '86 ea82t.

Don't rule out a suck through setup, much easier to set up than blow through - the carb needs no mods running this way. Like everything, it has its disadvantages (throttle lag may be noticeable, and i've heard that they can be a prick to start sometimes), but i'd say it would be a better option than blow through...