rallyruss

come to san jose and just take one of mine;) if nothing else you would have a known good one to work with. I need the space in the garage so its yours if you want it.

or exhaust leak before the turbo. make sure the mounting bolts are tight. they like to back off with heat.

if you have power steering its a little more tricky. the lines are a bit dificult to get to and are always covered in grime. its easyer to drop the rack down a bit to get to the lines. if you want to get the alignment really close afterinstall spin the tire and spray paint a line around it. then rig up a devise to scribe a straight line on the paint or use a marker to make a true straight line. Do this on both tires. measure inbetween the lines on each tire front and rear. do this after you set the steering wheel straight by sighting down the outside edge of each front tire looking at the rear tire as a point of referance. this can take a while to get set correctly but if you take your time you can get it within the specs. after lowering cars or other major suspension work I usually do this to get it close.

I would be interested to see that. o2 should not run above 1v. the bounce will ususally go between .2 and .8 volts. under throttle enrichment .8 to .9 steady is normal. there is a referance voltage from the ecm to the o2 for diagnostic purposes. I think thats 5volts? need to double check. you may have a crappy ground or somthing like that. you should not see the referance voltage after the o2 is hot and outputing its own voltage.

I know but I wont make it unless things at work drasitcly change soon. I am on call every weekend there is any kind or RallyX event and the wcss days.

nice work. hope that does it for you. now I can get back to throwing my TDO4 on with confidence.

unlike spark plugs an ignition coil is designed to last the life of the car. my accel died when I was 300+ miles from home. due to the failures reported by others before me.I had my old coil in the car and was able to swap it out and make it home on my OE 200,000+ mile coil. all I will say is if you really want to keep running this example of stelar quality on your cars. carry a spare stock coil. as for the failure numbers I would guess its coming up on 20+ out of I dont know how many installed. thats just here on our board. what about the general public? what about my friend at the parts store that specificly stated when I purchased it that they were junk. I said "no way man lots of guys are running them.":rolleyes: whoops. tomRhere- I understand what you mean about roasting the coil with the key on but I dont thik this is the case.

welcome abord. I dont know how to fix em but I have two blue ones in my garage that I am not using right now. if you want i can make you a sweet deal. one has been torn and repaired. the other is all good.

almost.. its under a vacume at idle as well correct? so this regulated or reduced pressure is the "normal" pressure value (got that tex?) do bit of testing with your gauge you will see what I mean. once you understand it you can use this on almost all cars.

ok here I go use a good floor jack if you are going to be doing any real work on cars. never!get under a car with no jack stands or at least some wheels stacked for it to fall on. on my first job as a mechanic I was replacing a guy who had been crushed under his own car. I use the cross member in front and rear diff. I place stands in front on the torque rod (radius rod?) mount. in the rear at the cotroll arm mount. if you jack only part of the car off the ground make sure to block the wheel that is the most securely planted on the ground

odd comp- O2 is supposed to bounce. the more the better. the reason why you may ask? it makes the cat work the most efficently. a stock fuel system needs to bounce between rich and lean to make the cat work properly. as for those intake temps? I cannot stress the importance of intercooling enough. my rather small VW unit drops aprox 100deg under full boost on a warm day. edis is a decent system. at least as far as ford stuff goes. keep it up. I have done a little custom stuff before but not on a sube. I used the SDS system on my toyota. never could get it to drive well. hauled arse under full throttle but could not tune it to run well at idle. I also was running turbo injectors. probably a big part of the problem. I saved the system and will probably put it on my air cooled VW when I get it up and runing.

I did a little test fitting on my sube while the exhaust was off. on the EA82 cars the WRX down pipe will fit almost perfect. I will find out for sure when I get a new intercooler and plumbing to do the swap the rest of the way. oh yeah boost starts around 2K and full boost 2500 to 3000. this on a worn oil burning stock turbo.

good to see some old school subes rallying. I would be happy to do any rallying actually:rolleyes: . no funds yet. so for now I will just get as involved as I can without actually buying a fully built car. its all good fun as long as you finish in one piece.... mostly.

with so many of these things going dead remind me why people are still runing them? yeah I know about the accel coil relocation program for troubled coils, but thats not needed with a good stock coil. whats the info on this GP coil? how is it better I am curious.

what brand was it? I am working on a carb off a boat right now and could use some good stuff. mabey the stuff I got last time was bad.

actually the purpous of the egr is to reduce combustion temps by introducing a little unburnable gases at cruise speeds. Egr does not function at idle or full throttle. I do not recomend it but you may not see any immediate ill effects from adding a block off. just rember combustion temps will be higher.

normaly when vacume is applied to the presure regulator it drops fuel pressure 5 to 10 psi when under no vac. or boost conditions it will rise to full pressure. plumbed to a manifold vac. source. this applies to my 87 fuel system and most other vehicles as well. hope it helps. you can test this at idle when hooked up to manifold vac. watch fuel pressure with it connected and then pull the hose off. it should jump higher.

its a transistor. or in sube terms an igniton amplifier.

dont get that new parst dip. that new crap is no good. its some wierd chemical that does not clean but smells really bad. I dont know what the deal is with that stuff.

dam yo... thats gona be one pimp ***** ride. nice job. hope we(you ) can get that motor running well soon. I am itching to put my TDO4 on now.

I also say Intercool it. the intake temps rise rather high without an intercooler. there fore reducing the density of the air charge. dont mess with the temp sensor. there are adverse effects to making a daily driver run really rich. besides under boost the car changes to a fat (rich) mixture any way. oh yeah a good o2 should cycle at idle when hot as well as off idle.

the blower motor is on a seperate ciricit. a/c charge will not effect blower operation.

dont forget about checking for good grounds too.

I see your car has a case of mud magnatism:brow: the force that drives a car into a big mud hole. too bad you were pulled out by a silly looking truck. looks like some rough terrain for MN.

there is a little short cut that makes this a bit easier. if the left bank is aligned with the cam marks up and the crank at the three little marks. just install the right side with the cam notch aligned facing down. there are marks on the bottom of the cam covers also to help you with this. yeah I missed that step the first time I did one too. has to be a really stupid procedure. all to keep the cam sprokets interchangable I guess.